22-250 Full Size or Neck Size

[Nick Caprinolo]

I recently purchased a Remington 22-250 SV. I can't seem to get a group under one inch. To this point I have stubbornly stuck to H380 powder of various weights in combination with recommended bullets under 55 gr. Twist rate is 1/14.

While at the range yesterday, a friend told me his gunsmith, recommended full sizing instead of neck sizing for this caliber.

Also yesterday for the first time, I had several cases that were extremely difficult do get the bolt open. I actually had to take a block of wood and strike the bolt handle to get it to open.

 

[TheOtherZilla]

I always full length size mine. While H380 may or may not work, you should try something else. I had 2 22-250's that loved H380. This one likes XBR 8208. Yours may like something else.. All of mine like Sierra 52 HPBT's.

 

[Nick Caprinolo]

I always full length size mine. While H380 may or may not work, you should try something else. I had 2 22-250's that loved H380. This one likes XBR 8208. Yours may like something else.. All of mine like Sierra 52 HPBT's.

I should have stated that I only shoot this rifle at 100 yards on a Bench rest. Therefore I am not interested in obtaining high velocity which in this cartridge will burn barrels out in a hurry. I have several different powders I will try and see how that works out.

 

[BrassRat]

I recently purchased a Remington 22-250 SV. I can't seem to get a group under one inch. To this point I have stubbornly stuck to H380 powder of various weights in combination with recommended bullets under 55 gr. Twist rate is 1/14.

While at the range yesterday, a friend told me his gunsmith, recommended full sizing instead of neck sizing for this caliber.

Also yesterday for the first time, I had several cases that were extremely difficult do get the bolt open. I actually had to take a block of wood and strike the bolt handle to get it to open.

I cannot find the Remington 700 SV - what is it?

You did not mention your load of H-380, but if you have no problems closing, and need a block of wood to open it, the load is either too heavy or way too light.

I have two 22-250's now and I have owned a bunch over the years, and I only neck sized the cases with Redding Comp bushing neck sizer, which resulted in a light resistance to closing the bolt, but no case stretch at all, and a case life of over 40 firings.

 

[B23]

Use a Redding Type S FL die and get the best of both worlds.

 

[shoot4fun]

First, there is nothing to be gained by neck sizing only except potential for the bolt issue you describe. FL size moving the shoulder back about .002" every time. I have brass that is now 17 years old (not used more than twice per year) and has run many cycles of 41 grains H380 with 50 grain bullets. It is still up to the task today.
I believe you should look at Varget if your quest is for pure accuracy over speed. Do not expect that Remington barrel to ever provide benchrest accuracy either.

 

[marchboom]

This is a subject that causes arguments among some handloaders. I would try both and see what works best FOR YOUR GUN.

Since this is a new gun for you, i would check it out to make sure the action screws are tightened properly, the scope and mounts (if so equipped) are tight, etc. Also check the crown for any damage. If this is a used rifle, maybe a thorough cleaning.

H-380 is usually a really good powder.

 

[biggun2869]

This is a subject that causes arguments among some handloaders. I would try both and see what works best FOR YOUR GUN.

Since this is a new gun for you, i would check it out to make sure the action screws are tightened properly, the scope and mounts (if so equipped) are tight, etc. Also check the crown for any damage. If this is a used rifle, maybe a thorough cleaning.

H-380 is usually a really good powder.

Full length size and 35 grains of IMR 4064, that is the original load my gunsmith gave me 40 years ago and I have tried many times to better it w/380 Varget ect. I always come back to this and I have shot in many many guns. Gary

 

[biggun2869]

Full length size and 35 grains of IMR 4064, that is the original load my gunsmith gave me 40 years ago and I have tried many times to better it w/380 Varget ect. I always come back to this and I have shot in many many guns. Gary

 

[biggun2869]

I really like the Hornady sx bullet 50 gr best although there are many in that weight range that do well 52gr Sierra of course included. I have quite a few of the Honadys that I've bought over the years. I used to go there at least once a week and if there wasn't anything else I wanted to trade for or just spend my money on I'd just pick up a few boxes of bullets. Local gun shop no longer open, I miss it quite a bit.

 

[BrassRat]

Full length size and 35 grains of IMR 4064, that is the original load my gunsmith gave me 40 years ago and I have tried many times to better it w/380 Varget ect. I always come back to this and I have shot in many many guns. Gary

4064 and the new replacement, 4166, are ideal powders for the 22-250 and the .220 Swift with bullets in the 50 to 55 grain weights. Better than H-380 (but a pain in the ass to throw threw a measure )

 

[Evan]

Full length size and 35 grains of IMR 4064, that is the original load my gunsmith gave me 40 years ago and I have tried many times to better it w/380 Varget ect. I always come back to this and I have shot in many many guns. Gary

35.2gns in my gun with 52 or 53s. It shoots into the 1s. I've not found a better powder for 22-250s than 4064. I also never have trouble buying IMR.

That's 5 shots at 100yrds. I won't tell you that's normal, but it has happened on a regular enough basis for me to believe that is what the gun can do when I do my part.

If you're beating your bolt open, there is your answer. You need to FL size.

 

[biggun2869]

35.2gns in my gun with 52 or 53s. It shoots into the 1s. I've not found a better powder for 22-250s than 4064. I also never have trouble buying IMR.
View attachment 1062157
That's 5 shots at 100yrds. I won't tell you that's normal, but it has happened on a regular enough basis for me to believe that is what the gun can do when I do my part.

If you're beating your bolt open, there is your answer. You need to FL size.

It doesn't measure well, personally I just use a Lee dipper under what I want and dump into an old 10-10 that has been tuned by Scott Parker and trickle up, works pretty well and doesn't take all that long.

 

[Evan]

I need to ask for clarification: do your rounds chamber fine? Or is there difficulty closing the bolt?

 

[B23]

If you FL size a case, it will stretch, and eventually separate.

All brass, eventually, has to be sized, period! If you set your FL die up correctly and have it bumping the shoulder back, only, once it has reached its headspace limit, you will have no issues and your brass will last a long time. Where people get into trouble with case separation is when they have their die setup to bump the shoulder back, well before, the case has reached its headspace limit.

 

[Nick Caprinolo]

I cannot find the Remington 700 SV - what is it?

You did not mention your load of H-380, but if you have no problems closing, and need a block of wood to open it, the load is either too heavy or way too light.

I have two 22-250's now and I have owned a bunch over the years, and I only neck sized the cases with Redding Comp bushing neck sizer, which resulted in a light resistance to closing the bolt, but no case stretch at all, and a case life of over 40 firings.

Sorry, it is a Model SF.

 

[Nick Caprinolo]

I have no problem closing the bolt.

The last time out, I did reduce the load below recommended powder charge.

I have no problem with 4064. I load with an electronic trickle scale and then reweigh it on a balance scale removing or adding powder as indicated. I do this with all my reloading except for my AR15.

Shooting one inch groups seems like a waste of time for me. I bought this rifle because I expected very tight groups. That is what you should expect from this cartridge. Supposed to be a tack driver and most are. Remington builds them with a long free bore, which wants a longer bullet than the 1/14 twist will allow. I am very disgusted with this gun and most likely will re-barrel it. Thinking 1/8 twist so I can use heavier bullets and less velocity which will translate in longer barrel life. Even with a modest powder load, after three shots, I have to stop and wait for the barrel to cool using a barrel fan.

 

[B23]

Nick, if you are only shooting 100 yard benchrest stuff, a 22-250 would likely be one of my very last choices. I think you would be MUCH happier shooting something like a 222 or 223. Since you already have the .473 bolt face a 22BR would serve you well but if 100 yards is your target, I'd look for something in a 222.

 

[BrassRat]

I have no problem closing the bolt.

The last time out, I did reduce the load below recommended powder charge.

I have no problem with 4064. I load with an electronic trickle scale and then reweigh it on a balance scale removing or adding powder as indicated. I do this with all my reloading except for my AR15.

Shooting one inch groups seems like a waste of time for me. I bought this rifle because I expected very tight groups. That is what you should expect from this cartridge. Supposed to be a tack driver and most are. Remington builds them with a long free bore, which wants a longer bullet than the 1/14 twist will allow. I am very disgusted with this gun and most likely will re-barrel it. Thinking 1/8 twist so I can use heavier bullets and less velocity which will translate in longer barrel life. Even with a modest powder load, after three shots, I have to stop and wait for the barrel to cool using a barrel fan.

Heavy, slow bullets actually translate to shorter barrel life - it is not the bullet speed, it is the heat transfer that burns the barrel, and slow bullets give longer flame time in the throat.
Even with the factory throat, it should shoot 50gr plastic tipped bullets well, like the BlitzKing, the Ballistic tip, and the V-Max.

 

[Evan]

I typically get over 40 loads from necksized cases, and I do not FL size.

When the case fires, the case moves forward from the primer blast, the case walls grab the chamber walls, and any air space betweeen the bolt face and the case head gets filled by the head moving back from pressure - that is how cases stretch.

When the case is FL sized, the body gets squished down, the body elongates, moving the shoulder forward. This is way before the shoulder contacts the die - then the die pushes the shoulder back, forcing the brass in the shoulder to move towards the neck, causing the case to grow even more, and need trimming. All of this crap can be avoided.

That's not the way it was explained to me, and my real life experience of neck sizing only over a decade ago and then moving to FL sizing everything and never neck sizing anything for the past several years does not bear your explanation out. My necks split long before anything else, and that is 30+ reloads in. Half decent dies and more importantly: properly cut chambers in rifles, do not exhibit any of the characteristics you are attributing to FL sizing.

I have no problem closing the bolt.

Shooting one inch groups seems like a waste of time for me. I bought this rifle because I expected very tight groups. That is what you should expect from this cartridge. Supposed to be a tack driver and most are. Remington builds them with a long free bore, which wants a longer bullet than the 1/14 twist will allow. I am very disgusted with this gun and most likely will re-barrel it. Thinking 1/8 twist so I can use heavier bullets and less velocity which will translate in longer barrel life. Even with a modest powder load, after three shots, I have to stop and wait for the barrel to cool using a barrel fan.

That is more concerning. If your brass chambers just fine and then requires brute force to get back out, then FL sizing won't fix it. It sounds like you've got a different problem. Do you have any pressure signs: ejector swipe, flattened primers? Does the 0.200 datum measure larger on a fired "beat the bolt open" piece of brass than on a loaded round that chambers fine?

Long freebore doesn't necessarily sink the accuracy, it just makes it more difficult to tune a load with a specific bullet. Basically you will need to try different bullets until you find one that likes to jump in your gun. My 6.5 creedmoor shoots very well jumping 147 ELDs some 0.080 to the lands. My 22-250 isn't picky about seating depth on 40 vmax: 0.010 jump up to a 0.040 jump with the 40vmax all group pretty much the same.

If you're sensitive to barrel heat, and want to have long barrel life, then the 22-250 isn't a good choice. It's a hotrod, plain and simple. You won't find much better barrel life with heavy bullets in a fast twist either. It's still a large charge of powder in a small bore. To see appreciable gains in barrel life, you'll need to move to a different chambering. On a 478 bolt face, you can't go wrong with a 6BR. Less powder and a larger bore = probably 2x the barrel life of a 22-250.