22-250 bullet drop at 200

[hipp2412]

Does anyone have a ballistic calculator that can give me bullet drop at 200. I am 1.5 high at 100. I have a thermal on this gun and it’s bad enough seeing a target at 100 in the daytime let alone 200. My gun is a Tikka t3 heavy barrel 1-14twist. My load is 50 gr Vmax with 36 gr of Varget. I should be around 3600fps. Thanks for any info you can provide.

 

[Lonny in ID]

At 200, you will still be about 0.8" high. You'll be about zeroed at 225ish.

 

[Doug Casner]

That old 1.5 high at 100 is how to sight in anything heard that since I was a kid. Doug

 

[hipp2412]

Thanks guys…

 

[Majday]

I've always sighted 1" high at 100 is right at perfect at 200

 

[Clancy]

That’s a 225-250 yard zero.

 

[alf]

I have a thermal on this gun and it’s bad enough seeing a target at 100 in the daytime let alone 200.

I have found the best target/aiming point to use for sighting in a thermal is to use Duck brand chrome tape from Walmart. I make appropriate sized squares for use at 100, 200, or 300 yards. Spray your scissors with silicone spray, & the tape cuts like paper leaving no residue. Plus you can cut small squares to repair bullet holes.

Color Duct Tape- Chrome, 1.88 in. x 10 yd.

Make repairs, add color, craft, label, or decorate with this chrome, 1.88 in. x 10 yd., color duct Tape It's perfect for your home, office, or classroom.

www.duckbrand.com

Tilt your target back a few degrees to reflect the light from the sky better. I usually drape a hoodie over my head & scope to block out the daylight.

 

[hipp2412]

I do use the silver tape used for duct work. Maybe I have to tilt it more or maybe try something other than white hot. Thanks for the inf

 

[Fern]

Does anyone have a ballistic calculator that can give me bullet drop at 200. I am 1.5 high at 100. I have a thermal on this gun and it’s bad enough seeing a target at 100 in the daytime let alone 200. My gun is a Tikka t3 heavy barrel 1-14twist. My load is 50 gr Vmax with 36 gr of Varget. I should be around 3600fps. Thanks for any info you can provide.

As we know every rifle is different but I shot 36g of varget with 50g vmax and chrono at 3854. This is in a savage axis farming with a 20” barrel

 

[alf]

I do use the silver tape used for duct work. Maybe I have to tilt it more or maybe try something other than white hot. Thanks for the inf

I generally use white hot for zeroing, but that day the colored really stood out.

 

[GAnderson]

Something that is often overlooked when using a Thermal scope is the height above the bore. A. conventional day scope is usually about 1.5" above centerline of the bore...but most often a Thermal scope is 2.5 to 2.75" above centerline of the bore. So when doing the calculation, be sure to get the proper height above bore put into the calculation.

Gene

 

[Phillip Crowe]

For zeroing thermals, I use an incense stick. I have a piece of plastic taped to the target. Incense stick is taped to the plastic so it's about 1/2" off the target. Works great, unless you hit the stick.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Typically with 3600+ fps and a thermal 1.5 high at a 100 is well above zero at 200. You probably (depending on height of the image above bore) need to be about 0.4 inches high at 100 for a 200 yard zero.

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

My .22-250 Rem with, a 50 gr V-Max @ 3,550 fps, calls for me to Be, 1 inch High @ 100 yds to be, Zero'd at, 200 Yds w/ 49 degree temp at, 3,300 ft Elev ( and minus, 2" at, 250 yds ) I Aim for, the Head on Sage Rats at, 250 yds

 

[hipp2412]

Something that is often overlooked when using a Thermal scope is the height above the bore. A. conventional day scope is usually about 1.5" above centerline of the bore...but most often a Thermal scope is 2.5 to 2.75" above centerline of the bore. So when doing the calculation, be sure to get the proper height above bore put into the calculation.

Gene

So would that measurement be from the reticle?

 

[HillbillyLongRifle]

Center of Bore to center of Scope is what Gene is talking about

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

The reticle doesn't stay "centered" as a traditional scope. You are moving (x,y) a digital image on a display to where the bullet impact occurs. So the height above bore of the reticle changes depending on distance and how the barrel points(index). You will need to shoot 50 yards, 100 yards, 150 and out to max shooting distance. Than tweak the image for the best bullet impact(trajectory).
I haven't researched, but it would seem that leaving the image centered and adjusting the elevation/windage with the mount could be beneficial.

 

[PhilC]

Does anyone have a ballistic calculator that can give me bullet drop at 200. I am 1.5 high at 100. I have a thermal on this gun and it’s bad enough seeing a target at 100 in the daytime let alone 200. My gun is a Tikka t3 heavy barrel 1-14twist. My load is 50 gr Vmax with 36 gr of Varget. I should be around 3600fps. Thanks for any info you can provide.

If I just want trajectory info I use this one, quick, simple, and close enough - https://shooterscalculator.com/point-blank-range.php

 

[GAnderson]

So would that measurement be from the reticle?

Basically as Hillbilly stated it is centerline of the barrel bore to center of the scope. After you move the little X pointer to the POI and save the X-Y coordinates the crosshair is re-centered in the screen image so it is still going to be centered in the scope...at least on Pulsar Thermals it is.

 

[DaveTooley]

Does anyone have a ballistic calculator that can give me bullet drop at 200. I am 1.5 high at 100. I have a thermal on this gun and it’s bad enough seeing a target at 100 in the daytime let alone 200. My gun is a Tikka t3 heavy barrel 1-14twist. My load is 50 gr Vmax with 36 gr of Varget. I should be around 3600fps. Thanks for any info you can provide.

Old Indian trick. Tape a handwarmer on the back of a piece of cardboard with a hole in it for a target. Obviously the cooler it is the better the detail.