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22-250 50gr. Moly coated VMAX

I just recently picked up a nice savage model 12bvss, i picked up a box of bullets today, and plan on using my similar recipe for my other 22-250's..

Never tried the vmax before and was wondering what people thought of them out of the 22-250. I know I'm not using what a lot of benchrest guys will use but i'm coyote hunting not punching paper..

but my first round will be:

winchester brass
cci magnum primers
37 grains of 4064
50gr. vmax bt moly coated

Hoping this shoots well.. I suspect it will from prior experience with it in other guns, but I always used sierra bullets in the 52gr hpbt model........
 
Moly coat can be a bit tricky in some rifles at higher velocities. Otherwise you should enjoy the bullet -- 3400 fps level works for me.
 
I shoot a Winchester 70 HV 22-250, my pet load is 50 gr Horn VMAX on top of 36.0 gr of IMR 4895 for 3800 FPS and it shoots in the .2s

I have also loaded .25-06 with the 75 gr vmax and .22 Hornet with 35 gr vmax and had great results.

I love Hornady bullets!!
 
ialso have a 22-250 in the 12bvss and it shoots well with 37.3 grains of varget not sure about the moly bullets.
 
Try H4895 and keep a close eye on your neck tension. As your brass starts to work harden you may end up with a situation where you won't have enough tension while using moly.
 
My personal best accuracy load in my 12bvss is winchester brass - CCI BR2 primers - 36.5 gr. of IMR4064 - and hornady 50gr v-maxes. Pretty much a max load but it shoots very tight groups and shows no pressure in my gun. IMR4895 and H380 both showed very good potential also. Good Shooting....

Focus
 
Good combination for critters. I have a Tikka 22-250 and Savage Striker pistol and shoot the 50 Grain V-max. I use H-380. I have killed a rockchuck at 635 yards with this bullet. Small hole in and out. Got one coyote with it at 100 yards earlier this year. Makes a sick mess of squirrels. Hits pop cans out at 600 yards when I dope the wind right. I personally don't mess with the moly coated bullets never saw the need. Cheap and fun to shoot though.
 
I don't use moly bullets anyhow, and wouldn't use them with a new factory barrel. Factory barrels are rougher and foul more than a custom barrel, and Savage barrels aren't known for their smoothness. But as it's shot it'll gradually get smoother. With moly coating, that stuff gets on and in the steel to reduce friction. Bullet to bore friction is what makes things smooth. I'd be shooting uncoated bullets in a new factory barrel.
 
I don't have very much experience with moly-coated bullets. But I tried them in my Cooper 22-ppc, because I picked up two boxes of moly-vmaxs real cheap. They shot fine, but when I went back to "naked" bullets that scared me. The groups opened up to almost 3/4" on a 3/8" gun. I found out I needed to scrub the moly out. So I used some JB compound. That fixed it. But like I said I don't really see the point in the stuff.
 
The best thing about moly and its main benifit is that you can shoot a ton of rounds before you need to clean your barrel compared to non-moly bullets. But yes cleaning out the moly is a pain in the rear butt. Don't mix your ammo. Try to keep with one or the other.
 
Flybuster said:
I don't have very much experience with moly-coated bullets. But I tried them in my Cooper 22-ppc, because I picked up two boxes of moly-vmaxs real cheap. They shot fine, but when I went back to "naked" bullets that scared me. The groups opened up to almost 3/4" on a 3/8" gun. I found out I needed to scrub the moly out. So I used some JB compound. That fixed it. But like I said I don't really see the point in the stuff.

I learned the hard way about moly too. I started using moly in my 30-06 and fired seveal hundred rounds through it and "cleaned" it every 25 shots or so. Later I found out that I wasn't cleaning it properly and I beleive that the moly held on to moisture after hunting season one year. I ended up with a little rust in my bore and Boy was I Angry,at myself).

Moly takes special care in cleaning and I personally will not use it again. You only gain a few fps and you have to clean moly and copper when you clean.
 
Thanks for sharing your experience Britz. I will probably never shoot it again either. For normal hunting it would be difficult to convince me its necessary.

I understand the reasons why some target shooters use it, mostly to "prevent" fouling. But, I've also heard that it creates its own type of fouling. Seems like your adding more variables into your ammo and its all about consistency and eliminating variables in the BR world...But I'm no benchrester, anyhow.
 
So far after a few hundred shots I have not had accuracy problems using molly, I may at sometime according to some reports. I like it because the barrel has been easier to clean. I cannot tell any difference in accuracy and do not worry about more vol icy, just barrel cleaning. I'm shooting krger ss and shilen select ss barrels for target and varmint shooting out to 600 yards. I clean with shooters choice and a hard plastic brush, after dry patches I mix shooters choice and kroil oil 50/50 and brush again, dry, then a patch with molly paste, dry patches. I have no noticeable fowling after shooting 60 to 80 shots during practice. What do I need to watch for other than accuracy problems. My barrels are chambered for 6mm/284, 244 Rem, 6XC, 22-250, 22BR, and 223.
 
I've tried moly and it works ok. I've also tried tungsten disulfide and like it better. There is also boron nitride that should be better than both. You do have to watch moly after you have shot a few rounds. Tungsten seems to be less of a problem and lubes to higher temps. There are some combustion products of disulfides that will eventually combine with moisture to make sulfuric or sulfurous acid and that makes problems. Be sure to put a patch with oil or something like Hoppes Field Cleaner down the barrel if you are going to leave alone for a awhile after shooting.


The 50gr vmax and ballistic tips work well. They seem to be pretty accurate is the girl friends .22-250 despite a rough barrel. We use IMR-4350 and Fed 210M primers.
 
Hi CPorter, Thanks for the inputs about molly. I'll watch for this problem while I use up the remainder of my bullets.
 
Be sure to check your o.a.l. too. My 12 BV shot terrible groups with factory ammo until I found out that the throat is so long that I need oal's of at least 2.515 in order to get them tighter. Now I get 1/4" groups all day. I'm 2.5316 to the lands.
 
jofus,my .22 250 has the same varget load 37.3 with the 50gr bullet for best accuracy. I use speer 50gr hollow point TNT`s for the best fragmentation on impact. the recommended fps for these bullets is no more than 3400fps I`m shooting them with the above load of powder at 3810fps they do a great job on vermin.
 
I shoot lots of vmax bullets in 224/243. I never used mag primers in anything with less than 70 gr. of powder. How do they work out for you. I shoot exclusively CCIBR primers with good results.Curious?
 
The V-Maxes,50 & 55 grn.) shoot extremely well in a .22-250 as do Nosler Ballistic Tips, Sierra Blitz Kings and Speer TNTs.

I used to shoot moly and will never shoot it again for all the reasons in previous posts. To me, it's just a modern day 'snake oil'.

Lou Baccino
Chino69
 

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