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.20PPC..............Short???

Phil

Gold $$ Contributor
Building another .20PPC.


Been considering building a short version,not really interested in the Beggs,No offense Gene.

What version of the .20PPC would you build......

Std.

-.100

-.150

-.180

Other.....


Why would you build the one you chose????

Phil.
 
The one you're not interested in, makes a lot of sense, IMO. The only reason I say that is because it would take good reason for me to go to the trouble of forming the short ppc's vs. simply necking down a proven case. I'm sure you have your reasons, though.


More to your question...I feel more info is needed as to what your specific use or goals for it are, to get an informed answer.
 
True,

The purpose of this rifle is a live varmint gun,39gr. B-kings around 4000fps.

I understand the additional work involved with the "short" cases and honestly I`m not looking forward to the labor involved.

I`m just curious what advantages the shorter cases possess over the full size case.

I have always heard that the full size PPC has too much case capacity for the lighter weight bullets and shortening the case reduces the "overbore" situation while still leaving enough boiler room to achieve my intended velocities with the 39 Bking.

Also I still have my .20 PPC dies, just another reason the Beggs is not the best choice for me.

Phil.
 
Based on it being a varmint rifle, you already have the dies, don't mind forming the brass, and don't wish to use the Beggs...I'd say do another 20ppc. It's a little more overbore, but in a varmint rifle there are more important things to worry about. JMHO.--Mike
 
Depends on what you're trying to do. I went with a 20 VT to see how I liked it. Enough recoil that I couldn't see my hits "thru the scope".
Anything out past 100 yards and the rig had a chance to settle down to get a good scope view.
As far as recoil, not enough to make any difference compared to say a M1A or any larger caliber. My goal was to be able to see the hits!
Went a little further with the 20 VT and pushed the shoulder back .200. (20 VT"short") Recoil is next to nothing and hits can be seen "thru the scope".
How fast are the bullets going? Never checked. They're all going in the same hole or real close so why bother? Might check somewhere down the road so if someone asks, I'll have an answer for them.
 
Mikie,

The rifle will end up 17lbs. plus......

Shouldn`t be a problem seeing hits........I hope.

Phil.
 
Phil:
Any round bigger than a 22LR will have movement. The heavier the rig, the better. 17+ lbs. is a good start.
We're not talking "recoil" as much as rifle movement. Short range is where the problem of sighting comes in.
Longer distance sighting is where the weight and caliber combination shows up. And the heavier weight of the rig will help it settle down when it's fired. 20 to 25 lbs. would a good start. Not a pack gun for sure. ;)

Best thing is to pick up a lower cost barrel, chamber it up in your "short" round and see what it does.
Consider a pre chambered 20 caliber barrel, (.204 Ruger?) cut it off and chamber it to your short round. Contour won't make that much difference. It'll be a "test" barrel.
Get yourself a set of shoulder bump Wildcat dies and you can make any case length you want.
Once you get the results you're after, go to a premium barrel. Or, if the "test" barrel shoots good, keep what you chambered.

A Green Mountain barrel chambered in the round of your choice and you're ready for testing. A good low $$ start. Maybe $125 for a blank?
I picked up a Wilson .270 blank for next to nothing. Chambered it in a .270 BR Wildcat. Turned out to be a real good shooter and it didn't cost me a arm and a leg to find out what the round would do.
You'll never know what you'll end up with till you try.
And I might add, my Green Mountain barrels turned out to be bug hole maker so don't write them off because of the lower price, Mike.
 

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