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1911 hollow point help

i have a RIA 1911 in 9mm which i really like. this is my first 1911 and assumed that it would not feed hollow points and it doesn't. but are there any tips/mods to make this possible?

thanks
 
1911 were designed to shoot round nose, I’ve not got them to reliably shoot anything else, but I’m not an expert either
 
If it’s new - break it in with a couple hundred rounds first.
Remove the barrel and polish the feeding ramp. Have it polished if this is not in your wheelhouse. I use automotive sand paper wrapped around a round object like a pencil. Use oil. 400 grit thru 1000 grit. Then a polishing with white and green rouge. Let her eat.
 
A gunsmith can take care of that fairly easily. It has been a common complaint of 1911s since hollow-point ammo has been available. You might try shooting round nose bullets for a couple of hundred rounds and then give hollow-points another try. The pistols need some break-in time.
 
I'm thinking a bit of polishing time on the bbl shroud. If that terminology is wrong, then the part at 12 o'clock where bullet nose is directed into the chamber.
 
I'm thinking a bit of polishing time on the bbl shroud. If that terminology is wrong, then the part at 12 o'clock where bullet nose is directed into the chamber.
i think i will try dremel felt pads & IOSSO paste, would that work? and i sorry, what part(barrel shroud)?
 
What you really want are Cratex rubberized abrasive plugs. IOSSO is going to be too mild to do anything, I suspect. Generally, you'll work on the ramp on both the frame and barrel.

Are you loading these HPs or using factory ammo? If you're loading them try playing with the seating depth, as the point where the bullet deflects up into chamber, the point where the nose contacts the shroud (or top of the chamber if you will), and the point where the cartridge rim is released from the magazine all play into how/if the round feeds.
 
i think i will try dremel felt pads & IOSSO paste, would that work? and i sorry, what part(barrel shroud)?
Break in is important. Really. A couple hundred rounds are needed. Don’t waste a ton of time polishing until then.
All that needs polished is the feeding ramp. A Dremel - felt pads - and polishing rouge. Go to Lowe’s and purchase polishing compound. All you need is the white and green.
Keep your rails lubricated. I don’t like using a bunch of oil. But if this is a carry pistol that won’t see a bunch of dirt and dust, then a bit of oil won’t hurt. Graphite works well. My Springfield EMP 9mm will run anything you feed it. MOST automatics have hiccups feeding hollow points until fully broken in. It’s not just a 1911 thing
 
Lot's of good advice on this post. I've been carrying the 1911 almost daily since 1968, and in that time I've learned the same lesson...break it in first prior to any work. Use FMJ for this, shoot the thing "wet" for at least a couple hundred rounds, and clean after every range session.

I'm now pretty much a Kimber convert, both .45 and 9mm. Out of all nine of my guns, virtually every one will feed anything I stuff in them, and I mean my SWC handloads, and every SD brand of HP ammo available. I sold my last Colt, a Combat Commander years ago, as nothing my smith or I could do would allow HP ammo to be fired in that gun.

After break-in, all my 1911's get a polished feed ramp. A bit of time with my Dremel and Flitz on a Kimber 9mm feed ramp....all of ten minutes work:



But remember one thing....the 1911 has proven itself over many years shooting only FMJ Ball ammo....
 
Yes, what has been stated above. The feed ramp needs a good polishing after the breakin. Start with the Cratex and finish with a hard felt bob with the green and white. If they are reloads, look at the seating depth and burrs associated with the cartridge base and rim on them that may cause them to drag on the extractor or breach face.
Tim
 
A 1911 isn't "broke in" until it has at least 500 rounds put through it. Years back I had a Colt Combat Commander in .45 aye cee pee that stumbled and choked trying to feed it hollow points. After the break in period was over it would even feed the notorious Speer "flying ashtray" without a hiccup. Just shoot it (a bunch) and let the action components smooth out the speed bumps the way JMB intended it to. As another post suggested, the Wilson mags also couldn't hurt.
 
Hillbillydrugist - you hit the jackpot of very reliable and sound advice from some very well informed and experienced folks. While all of this information is spot on, just remember - it is a process. One thing at a time. Break it in. Polish the ramp. Is it hanging up at the ramp? Try a Wilson mag. Is it hanging up at the extractor as it’s feed into the chamber? Tune your extractor. One thing at a time.
 
A top quality 1911 BE smith will massage until an empty case feeds, EVERYTIME.
I had 2 failures to feed in 1.5 years of weekly competition, weekend matches including Regional in Lou. KY. One was final crimp missed and other was cleaning neglect and that was with BE powder. FWIW
 
i think i will try dremel felt pads & IOSSO paste, would that work? and i sorry, what part(barrel shroud)?
I believe they are referring to the hood...that part of the rear of the barrel that protrudes to the rear at the top. If the magazine lips are releasing the rounds too soon they tend to tip upwards and contact the shroud. A good polishing can help the nose slide across this area better, but it is a bandaid rather than a cure. Try different magazine manufacturers. Wilson magazines work perfectly in all of mine but I only shoot .45 ACP. 9mm may feed differently. Mag lip tweaking can help, but can also result in an unusable magazine if done wrong. And yes, thorough break in is essential for reliability.
 

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