Winchester mod 70 woes

[AlNyhus]

Nice offer Jackie. -Al

 

[swd]

A wise man would take that offer and add on a gift card to a really nice restaurant as well..

 

[jpjulian]

A wise man would take that offer and add on a gift card to a really nice restaurant as well..

Or adult beverage of preference........18 y.o. single malt comes to mind.......

 

[DR_2297]

And if it needs a barrel I have this good take off from a featherweight chambered in ‘06. If you were close to SE Michigan I would break it down for you and assess. Seeing you are in NC I would give @Mudcat a shout.

 

[swd]

Or adult beverage of preference........18 y.o. single malt comes to mind.......

I don’t know if Jackie is a drinker but everyone enjoys a great meal!

 

[Schandler]

Brass came out pretty easy. Pecked with cleaning rod after spraying

 

[Schandler]

Fellas i have nothing in this rifle and to share my alcohol especially aged stuff - well they have to be a tight friend and have gunsmith skills ! I’m not sure what the markings on base of brass are or what they came from ?

 

[Schandler]

I’m not familiar with win mod 70 but bolt removes only after taking a thin small flathead screwdriver and pressing the piece of flat metal that actually stops bolt. The bolt release alone is not enough. I have clean sprayed and then lubed release and the metal bolt stop bar but have to manually push bolt stop bar down to remove bolt. I’m thinking this is why i don’t have a model 70 ! Is this a common problem or could over charge load caused this problem ? The rifling in barrel looks great and the chamber and lugs look good but again - I’m not a smith !

 

[Schandler]

Now i might fix a fella a good filet with a beer or three if they come to the house along with baked tater and some stiff toddies before meal but nobody lives close enough for that ! I’m thinking i might order parts for bolt and a stock and bottom plate but i dont feel safe chambering a round in it and pulling trigger until somebody a lot smarter than me looks at lugs and chamber and says it is safe to shoot. But I’m not willing to sink a lot into rifle. I do want to ask - with the bolt for long action 30.06 - can i with new barrel change it to a 243 or something other than 30 cal without a lot of trouble ? Any smaller cal can it use same bolt face or same bolt ? And magazine. Would order a stock for it

 

[Walt Krafft]

243 is just a barrel change. Bolt stop may have been messed up. You might get sticker shock finding pre64 parts.

 

[Schandler]

With serial number is there a way to know if it’s a pre 64 or post. I sure would spend the $ for a 243 barrel. I think 30.06 is a great cal but would shoot 243 much more and have lots of components on hand

 

[Walt Krafft]

Yours was made in 1953.

 

[Schandler]

The actual bolt stop piece that butts against bolt doesn’t move freely when the bolt stop lever pushes against it. I have removed and cleaned and oiled it but still doesn’t move out of way for bolt to pass. I will remove all again and use a little grease with moly in it and see what happens. Is this a common problem with mod 70 ? Walt thanks - i would have never thought rifle was that old

 

[jackieschmidt]

That case looks like a massive over pressure.

Now, what caused it is $64,000 question.

 

[Schandler]

Better pic

 

[DLT]

I can guarantee one thing. Who ever pulled the trigger last had to change their drawers.

 

[shortgrass]

With a case that looks like that one, I'd not be making any plans until I had the existing barrel off and a detailed exam given by someone who knows what they're looking at. That's something that can't be done over the interdnet.

 

[Sniperhandle]

It looks to me almost like it was re-chambered to 308 Norma and the barrel was never marked, Sure looks like the brass flowed into the void where the belt would be, See if the barrel has a counterbore for the belt on a magnum case.
I have an old FN Mauser that was rechambered to 300 Win mag and the barrel still says 30-06, But it has also been marked 300 Win Mag.

 

[DR_2297]

Needs some bore scope pics of chamber. Those rings are weird….

 

[SBS]

Sniperhandle may be correct. Most people want to immediately diagnose such damage as a "hot round". Whereas, many times it simply is brass that is not properly supported and the case lets go and vents the pressure (which is sometimes less than factory ammo).
As to converting it over to a .243 -- to do it the way it works best and the also the way Winchester did it:
Change the magazine box over to the .243/.308 size that is made shorter inside by boxing it in, along with a .243/.308 follower AND using a special extractor ring with an extension that makes the bolt throw shorter so that the bolt face stops just behind the ammo in the magazine. You'll need a different (longer) ejector also. All of these parts need to be for the pre-64 model. Actually pre-64, not pre-64 type, as some are wont to call the later Classic production. You might need a new bolt stop also -- check and make sure the pin going thru it is correct and it has the proper spring. The sum of all these parts is not particularly expensive, and can be found. The expensive parts of real pre-64 rifles (which are expensive), are the bolt, any bolt parts, the extractor, the receiver, t/g and f/p ass'y and factory stocks that have not been altered or worn out. You're rifle is worth repairing if the bolt is still good, these are great rifles.