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Holding a rifle stock in a milling machine

I don’t have a picture but a buddy has a cool setup. He mounts his vice to the table as he normally would and uses…then he’s got two of these mounted on a piece of metal that clamps in the vice On the table.

 
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My set-up is typical to others, mill vice, angle blocks and various clamps. I have started using moldable plastic to make custom jaws to deal with the angles and curves. It melts in hot (190+) water and starts hardening to solid plastic at around 140 deg.. You have several minutes to work and its reusable.

The chunks in the photo is a receiver tang mold waiting to re recycled.
 

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I like this more and more. If you were going to make another one, anything you'd change?

I'm also thinking something like this but I'm thinking about a self centering vice up in the forearm area with jaws that pivot to conform to the shape of the stock. In the back I'd just have some sort of U shaped bracket with padded jacking screws to hold the butt stock. Since I'd be doing all the work on a manual milling machine I think I'd mount it all a 1/2" aluminum plate. I'd put a 1" hole in the middle right under the center of where the action would be. Then I'd make curved slots towards the outer ends where it would be clamped down to the table. Bolt a 1" pin down on the mill table to set the plate on and then it would be able to rotate on it to dial the stock in for different operations.

In my mind it all sounds like it'll work perfect, but it might just be overkill from the way I'm doing the few stock I work on now.
 
My set-up is typical to others, mill vice, angle blocks and various clamps. I have started using moldable plastic to make custom jaws to deal with the angles and curves. It melts in hot (190+) water and starts hardening to solid plastic at around 140 deg.. You have several minutes to work and its reusable.

The chunks in the photo is a receiver tang mold waiting to re recycled.
I've often thought of something along these lines. Is it re usable? What I'm thinking is along the lines of a mold that would be for each individual stock design but is forgiving enough to allow a few thou here and there between different stocks of the same design. Pour a mold around the bottom half or so of a stock inside of a box. Take it all out and pad it with a firm rubber or possibly leather. The the mold would be used for all, lets just say McMillan Edges, just for example. It would essentially just give flat and square surfaces to put in a vise(s). It'd still to to be indicated in but easy peasy from there...I think.
 
I ordered some of that moldable plastic. If you ever have a Dima FTR stock... they are pretty, but there are zero flat and parallel areas. I used some zippy bags and bondo to make inserts. It was a real pain in the ass but it worked well. The plastic stuff should be a lot easier.

And yes... it should be re-usable. It's a low temp polymer just like we use in 3d printing.
 
I've often thought of something along these lines. Is it re usable? What I'm thinking is along the lines of a mold that would be for each individual stock design but is forgiving enough to allow a few thou here and there between different stocks of the same design. Pour a mold around the bottom half or so of a stock inside of a box. Take it all out and pad it with a firm rubber or possibly leather. The the mold would be used for all, lets just say McMillan Edges, just for example. It would essentially just give flat and square surfaces to put in a vise(s). It'd still to to be indicated in but easy peasy from there...I think.
Yes, its re-usable but collects impurities with each cycle. It's to viscous to pour, more like a loose play dough. It doesn't cut (band saw) or machine well after solidifying due to heat build up.
 
I like this more and more. If you were going to make another one, anything you'd change?
Cut the tails off both ends and move the outer mounting holes inboard of the yoke uprights. It would give more room to slide it fore and aft for barrel channels. I did key the bottom side so there's very little setup time.
 

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