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Cleaning chemicals

I've used Barnes CR-10 for a long time with good results on copper. Recently started using Patch-out and Accelerator on a trial basis and noticed it does not remove the copper as quickly and easy as the Barnes CR-10. Also, was introduced to KG-12 by my builder ODCR and looks like it is as good or maybe better than the Barnes CR-10. Still watching it. As far as carbon goes I find it hard to beat CLR and C4.
That Barnes CR-10 is like Shooters MC-7 on steroids'. Really good stuff. However, MC-7 i can find locally cheaper, so that's what I go with.
 
I've used Barnes CR-10 for a long time with good results on copper. Recently started using Patch-out and Accelerator on a trial basis and noticed it does not remove the copper as quickly and easy as the Barnes CR-10. Also, was introduced to KG-12 by my builder ODCR and looks like it is as good or maybe better than the Barnes CR-10. Still watching it. As far as carbon goes I find it hard to beat CLR and C4.
I've used Barnes CR-10 for a long time with good results on copper. Recently started using Patch-out and Accelerator on a trial basis and noticed it does not remove the copper as quickly and easy as the Barnes CR-10. Also, was introduced to KG-12 by my builder ODCR and looks like it is as good or maybe better than the Barnes CR-10. Still watching it. As far as carbon goes I find it hard to beat CLR and C4.
Ok bill thanks
 
That Barnes CR-10 is like Shooters MC-7 on steroids'. Really good stuff. However, MC-7 i can find locally cheaper, so that's what I go with.
As I said, I used MC-7 for over 30 years and was completely satisfied with it. While I am not a bench rest shooter and do not require sub 1/4 moa groups, I am more than just a "paper plate" shooter as I am a varmint and predator hunting which does require a high level of precision.

I may even go back to MC-7 since the odor is no longer an issue. For me, I want the simplest and easiest method to clean my rifles since I loathe cleaning firearms. :( Product availability is also important, and it doesn't hurt if the product I use is cheaper. :)
 
For normal cleaning of stainless lapped barrels I use Butch's, patches and a bronze bore brush, with a lot of careful brushing. If my bore scope tells me that the barrel has hard carbon issues (after a normal cleaning) I use Thorroclean and Thorroflush, with some variation from the factory directions. There is no danger of any kind from this regimen. I am very careful to get all of the Thorroclean and any other abrasive cleaner out of and off of everything it touched. If I use thorroflush, after a dry patch or two, I finish with a wet patch of Butches and a couple of dry patches.
 
I used the same method for all my Rifles. Three wet patches with Butches.

6 passes with a QUALITY bronze brush, followed by 3 to 4 patches of butches and one dri patch.

Then I wet a patch with C4, run thru and follow with one more only short stroking, concentrating mostly on the throat for about 6", then a dri patch.

Finally I saturate a patch with lock Eze and short stroke it thru the barrel like the C4 and done, I seldom see a difference in my first shot poi doing this.

Everytime and try to clean as soon as I'm done shooting for the day, 1 shot, or 20 shots, seldom shoot more than that between cleaning.

If I ever see any copper, hardly ever till the round count is high, I use a wet patch of Butches, and a pea size drop of JB bore cleaner, short stroking back and forth till gone.
In my almost 70 years hunting and competing I've found no better method, and trust me, there is no one solvent snake oil to do as good a job, or that will extend barrel accuracy life better, that I've found.
 
I used the same method for all my Rifles. Three wet patches with Butches.

6 passes with a QUALITY bronze brush, followed by 3 to 4 patches of butches and one dri patch.

Then I wet a patch with C4, run thru and follow with one more only short stroking, concentrating mostly on the throat for about 6", then a dri patch.

Finally I saturate a patch with lock Eze and short stroke it thru the barrel like the C4 and done, I seldom see a difference in my first shot poi doing this.

Everytime and try to clean as soon as I'm done shooting for the day, 1 shot, or 20 shots, seldom shoot more than that between cleaning.

If I ever see any copper, hardly ever till the round count is high, I use a wet patch of Butches, and a pea size drop of JB bore cleaner, short stroking back and forth till gone.
In my almost 70 years hunting and competing I've found no better method, and trust me, there is no one solvent snake oil to do as good a job, or that will extend barrel accuracy life better, that I've found.
I’m going to try Barnes cr 10 but it’s got amounia in it how do you guy’s neutralize it at the end of cleaning process ?
 
I’m going to try Barnes cr 10 but it’s got amounia in it how do you guy’s neutralize it at the end of cleaning process ?
I patch out until absolutely dry. And then I apply a patch with a half dozen tiny drops of bore oil. Then I patch that once with a dry patch.

If there is any ammonia left in the barrel I have not noticed any symptoms.... or I guess it's possible don't know what to look for.

I do use a possum hollow bore guide, so there is zero chance of anything getting in the magwell or trigger area.
 
I’m going to try Barnes cr 10 but it’s got amounia in it how do you guy’s neutralize it at the end of cleaning process ?
I go behind it with wet patches of alcohol and dry it out. Then put the Lock-Ease in the bore unless I'm shooting HBN coated bullets. I wait until I'm ready to shoot and run two patches of the HBN & Alcohol mix to coat the barrel and dry it out before I begin shooting.
 
Any thoughts on C4 Carbon Remover? (Also Bore Tech) Not sure if it would have the same effect.
I have standardized on Bore Tech C4 for carbon. Patch out to get the bulk of the carbon out… then let it soak for minutes, hours or overnight… depending on what I’m up to and how much of a hurry I’m in.

Follow with Bore Tech Cu remover.

They work well for me AND have zero odor.

From “the literature” C4 and Cu are better at removing carbon and copper, respectively, than Eliminator. But, Eliminator is a convenient one product solution.
 
Be careful. This was used on one of our rimfire test rifles. A drop or two of Eliminator solvent got into the action during a shipment, causing nasty rust on the bolt and trigger. I won't use this stuff anymore.
Neutralizing any cleaning agent is highly recommended, as is using a good bore guide and a downward canted stand to keep all cleaners away from the action/trigger.
 
I used a 50/50 mix of Shooter's Choice & Kroil for maybe 20 years in my service rifles. I always use brushes, then and now. If it seemed to be taking too many soaked patches I dried the bore and then a few wet patches of Sweet's. Never worried about carbon because I was using brushes. There were a few guys who didn't want to brush their bores...... and seemed to have problems with carbon rings and pressure issues at the worst time...... Camp Perry maybe?
 
Like was mentioned, get a bore scope. They are fairly inexpensive these days.


Pretty much anything will remove loose powder fouling that many believe is carbon.

Lots of good copper cleaners. Some work faster than others. Some have a blue indicator.


For hard carbon, which IMO is what actually is most important to remove, it requires mechanical means. That means 1 of 2 things....lots of brushing and BRUSHES. Or abrasives. Iosso, jb, etc.



After getting a bore scope I was absolutely beside myself. Pretty pricey chemicals and brushing wasn't doing hardly anything. Warm soaks after the range...long soaks with chemicals that are safe to do so...unless I changed brushes Pretty regularly and brushed a lot, it just wasn't removing the hard carbon.

Another issue is hard carbon and copper interlaced and layered.


I've gone to ever 100(ish) rounds just running Iosso. I send some oil patches through to remove loose foiling....then start working oiled Iosso patches...mostly focused in the first 6-12"...after a few patches I go back to oil patches and send a handful of them through. I'm usually going right back to shooting so I run a few patches of 91% alcohol out the bore too remove any remaining Iosso and all the oil.


Back to an actual clean bore. I don't like bringing anything back through the muzzle. Too easy for the brush or jag to catch the edge of the crown. To send an ample amount of brush strokes through to do the job, you're gunna be there a LONG time if you unscrew the brush every pass...not to mention you only get a small amount of use out of a brush...at a couple bucks a pop, that adds up in a hurry. Oversized brushes and reversing brushes in the bore kill them quick in my experience.


To each his own. Find what works for YOU and suits your shooting needs. I'm mostly a steel shooter. 100 rounds give or take gets me through a day. I know my bore...1-2 fowler is all I need...I send 3 to be sure.


Lots of ways to clean a bore...and certain guys have different needs. A bore scope was worth its weight in gold though. Saved me a lot of time and money. I've spent a good bit of money on bore cleaners in the past...I'll keep a bottle or 2 around for hunting rifles that only see a handful of shots a year or a quick cleaning or whatever. But my higher volume match rifle I know what needs done.


If you shoot high volume and don't clean hard carbon out, you'll be on here asking why you're seeing pressure signs out of nowhere and why you can't get your rifle to shoot....
 
I’m convinced that the folks who develop the various formulas to clean guns will continue to discover better mouse traps then marketing them in more creative containers, application devices. Several folks have described the multi- brand approach. Most of the folks I swap lies with use that same approach, but what is not mentioned is the time allowed for the cleaner to do its magic. I may use 2 or 3 different products for different contaminants but I let each one work for a few minutes. Swab, wait. Swab, wait. Change products, repeat. My process may take several hours with only 5 minutes on the cleaning rod. Let time do the work. Swab barrels with anti-everything until the swab is clean, a bit of the oil of the week. Bang-bang, do it all over again. Swapping bullet and powder residue for chemicals and patches can become an obsession but time helps.
 

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