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Tikka Action - Shilen Blank

Dimner

I do believe in Captain Crunch.
Just a quick question for you well versed fellas. I have a Tikka action that I would like to get a shilen barrel put on. Shilen's contour chart shows

3 Sporter (.358 and smaller)
1.220​
.815​
.625​
2.5​
6​
24​
26​
3 lbs 7oz.​
4 Magnum Sporter (.375 and smaller)
1.220​
.860​
.650​
3.0​
6​
26​
28​
3 lbs 14oz.​
5 Lightweight Varmint
1.220​
.910​
.700​
3.0​
6​
26​
28​
4 lbs 8oz.​

1680120670632.png

If I'm reading this correctly, any barrel contoured by Shilen will be 1.220" at the shoulder?

My tikka action is smaller than that. My measuring shows the outside width at the face of 1.200". The factory Barrel shoulder is 1.125".

So my main question is, with a Shilen contoured barrel, I'm going to need to have a smith turn down that shank a bit so it doesn't look strange? So if that is the case, I may be better off just getting an uncontoured barrel and having the smith do the whole thing?
 
Or have a gunsmith remove the short tapered section on the end of the receiver. That way you can use a larger shank diameter without it looking so weird.
 
Turning down the shank to your desired diameter is quick and simple work. Doing a complete contour, not so much.
 
So my main question is, with a Shilen contoured barrel, I'm going to need to have a smith turn down that shank a bit so it doesn't look strange? So if that is the case, I may be better off just getting an uncontoured barrel and having the smith do the whole thing?
Stick with the contoured blank. You'll pay more to have the smith contour it, and skinny sporter contours ain't the easiest to contour on a manual lathe and will not be of the same quality without ridiculous cost (time). Turning down the cylinder ("D" in the contour print) takes just a few minutes between centers.

Usually, when I do Tikkas I face the front of the receiver and solve the diameter problem making shank diameter a non-issue.
 
When you turn a shank down, its length of course becomes “longer”. I started with a blank having a short shank, so that when turning its diameter to 1.2”, it didn’t become excessively long. Just a visual preference of mine. As others mentioned, turning the radius off the action allows a 1.2” shank to mate up nicely.
F93F3C2B-EB5E-48B6-8125-0DD804860702.jpeg
 
How much length do you wind up taking off of you turn the receiver face, and then how large of a barrel diameter will look good?
 
If the receiver has the radius turned/removed, would that make it so tikka prefit barrels would no longer headpace correctly?
 
I think what @ININT is asking is how much receiver length is being removed? Additionally, how many threads are being removed?
 
I think what @ININT is asking is how much receiver length is being removed? Additionally, how many threads are being removed?
Off the top of my head mby .125" and no threads are removed because it originally had recessed threads to begin with. IMO it's moot though as this is becoming pretty common practice with Tikka's and there's still plenty of tenon length left.
 
We are going to start offering customs built in Tikka's as a way to have a more budget friendly custom rifle. Our current customs are typically built on a BAT Vesper with a Benchmark barrel and an AG Composites or Manners or McMillan stock--unless the customer insists on one do those silly chassis.

The Tikkas will also have a custom stock and barrel, and we think we can build a Tikka for 1/2 of our typical custom.

I like the idea of facing the receiver and keeping the barrel diameter more than I do turning down the shank. In my mind, a beefier shank is a better way to do things.
 
We are going to start offering customs built in Tikka's as a way to have a more budget friendly custom rifle. Our current customs are typically built on a BAT Vesper with a Benchmark barrel and an AG Composites or Manners or McMillan stock--unless the customer insists on one do those silly chassis.

The Tikkas will also have a custom stock and barrel, and we think we can build a Tikka for 1/2 of our typical custom.

I like the idea of facing the receiver and keeping the barrel diameter more than I do turning down the shank. In my mind, a beefier shank is a better way to do things.
The tikkas are cool if you make a nice hex lug to go between the action and barrel that matches the action when faced off and get rid of the plastic parts like bolt shroud and bottom plastic. If yall made those 3 items id go back to using tikkas and yall would have to buy more machines to keep up with the public. Make a good bottom metal like yall aready have that takes good mags.
 
The tikkas are cool if you make a nice hex lug to go between the action and barrel that matches the action when faced off and get rid of the plastic parts like bolt shroud and bottom plastic. If yall made those 3 items id go back to using tikkas and yall would have to buy more machines to keep up with the public. Make a good bottom metal like yall aready have that takes good mags.
@INTJ ^^^This!!! Get SRS to add more machines and tool up for Tikka's :)
 

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