Did you verify this is an immersion pump like Dave said we should do?
I am also a little concerned about 1/8 HP, but it may be enough. I am leaning toward the pump you bought.
Chamber flush system build log.
- Thread starter LVLAaron
- Start date
Did you verify this is an immersion pump like Dave said we should do?
I am also a little concerned about 1/8 HP, but it may be enough. I am leaning toward the pump you bought.
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
It looks like one. You could call Ajax and get a make/model on the pump itself, I bought my chucks and vices from them... They're good to deal with.
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Here's one that says it's good for light oils and still under 200 bucks.
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If I were starting over I'd get one of those along with a foot pedal.
Should work. Greg Tannels BTS won't come off with only four of those screws.
Yes. The output of the pump goes two places.
* back to the tank through a ball valve
* to the barrel
The tank return lets me reduce flow/pressure to the barrel. Without that the oil coming out of the barrel would blast the tailstock off the lathe
The flow rate in your video looks very similar to what I have and I get chips sitting on flutes at the body of the reamer more would be better. I'm running pump, pressure relief valve , needle valve, pressure gauge, ball valve. So basically adjust the relief valve to the max pressure you want, adjust needle valve to the flow rate you want and use the ball valve as a shut off. If the ball valve is shut or the needle valve is too restricted excess just relieves through the relief valve back to the tank. If your running a manual ball valve on your bypass line it won't automatically modulate so as soon as your start getting more resistance at the reamer the flow rate through your bypass line will increase and you won't get it at the reamer.
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
I do have a ball valve as the relief. Help me out with a product for the needle valve?
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
I might turn the second set of bolt holes off. I did some lightening and polishing on it. Turning into a really nice part heh.
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
I've used my system for over 7,000 barrels with no problem. I wasn't concerned about chip evacuation. My main focus was constant lubrication. That's how you get the best finish possible in the all important throat area.
It takes but a few seconds to reverse the feed and flush the chips out. The better you are at drilling and preboring the fewer chips you have to deal with. For most an extra few minutes added to the chambering time is insignificant. I subscribe to the KISS principle.
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
My pre-bore routine is fairly thorough. Pecking a little bit to keep chips out is fine and zero effort.
I should have a new barrel in the shop soon to test this out with. I can't wait.
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
This is how much flow I get. This is with my line two feet above the spindle. I could reroute it to get a bit more flow but never considered it important enough. 
Tucker65
Gold $$ Contributor
For those that use a barrel flush system and also prebore before reaming have you reamed a chamber without a bushing on the end of the reamer.
All of my reamers aren't cut for using a pressurized bore flush system and I'm not sure enough lube would get by the bushing to keep the reamer lubricated.
I drill and set compound to match the taper of the reamer then taper bore up close to the neck body junction. I then ream with a close fitting bushing on the reamer and the everything comes out great. I've heard others say that if you prebore you don't actually need the bushing as the reamer is going to follow the tapered bore but I've never actually tried it that way yet.
Anyone out there who prebores use their reamer without a budging on the end?
All of my reamers aren't cut for using a pressurized bore flush system and I'm not sure enough lube would get by the bushing to keep the reamer lubricated.
I drill and set compound to match the taper of the reamer then taper bore up close to the neck body junction. I then ream with a close fitting bushing on the reamer and the everything comes out great. I've heard others say that if you prebore you don't actually need the bushing as the reamer is going to follow the tapered bore but I've never actually tried it that way yet.
Anyone out there who prebores use their reamer without a budging on the end?
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
I've cut a few without pilots installed. Outcome was the same (no measurable runout) - I imagine this would only be successful if the barrel is dialed on the bore and perfectly concentric and aligned where the reamer will be cutting.
In the recent BAT interview, Bruce Thom cut some small grooves in the retention screw to allow oil to pass under the pilot. I like this idea more than getting new pilots. But as my signature says, I only pretend to know what I'm doing.
In the recent BAT interview, Bruce Thom cut some small grooves in the retention screw to allow oil to pass under the pilot. I like this idea more than getting new pilots. But as my signature says, I only pretend to know what I'm doing.
Last edited:
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
I'd go with this one. Cast iron pump and 1/8 HP rated. Set it on a stand 2' tall and increase the flow. But either will work for the home shop. Foot switch is good idea. I can turn mine on/off with a button on the control panel.It looks like one. You could call Ajax and get a make/model on the pump itself, I bought my chucks and vices from them... They're good to deal with.
Coolant Tank & Pump - 51-251-7
Shop Coolant Tank & Pump - 51-251-7 crafted by Penn Tool Co. to deliver unmatched reliability. Maximize efficiency with proven expertise shop with Penn Tool Co. today!
Here's one that says it's good for light oils and still under 200 bucks.
Coolant Tank & Pump - 51-251-7
Shop Coolant Tank & Pump - 51-251-7 crafted by Penn Tool Co. to deliver unmatched reliability. Maximize efficiency with proven expertise shop with Penn Tool Co. today!
If I were starting over I'd get one of those along with a foot pedal.
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Dusty Stevens
Shiner
All you need is the grooved screw. You dont need special bushings. Gene shows a good solution above
The nozzle Gre-tan makes is way better than tapping. Soooo much quicker too. I made a huge mess with the nozzle for a little while. So I went to tapping the muzzle. I don’t think pipe tapes were made to tap stainless steal…. Anyways, Then I read the manual for my pump and turned the pressure down. Not a drop leaked since. It was the rubber nipple initially that couldn’t hold up to high pressure. I’m slowly buying three fluted hss roughing reamers- the carbide ones pilot shaft is smaller so bushings are not interchangeable. Also they don’t tap them for a screw so you can’t dremel the screw to flow oil…..
Maybe I just bought cheap taps and/or don’t know what I’m doing, but I’m glad I read that manual and am back to the “ over priced “ nozzle from Greg. I just mentioned this because you said taping was a pain. It was for me. So I figured out where my problem
was. Now chambering is painless. I even figured a super simple way to make my reamer holder loose enough to move with the bore but stay put when I back out to let the reamer get rinsed. Sorry for the long post and grammar errors. I do this from my phone, well grammar would still be terrible if not from phone.
Hell, yeah...Most of my reamers have c-clips, but the ones that don't get this treatment:
Much better than slotting each groove individually!
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