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Vehicle Oil Filter Recommendations?

setting up dozers for Greenland or the artic. each one was equipped with 2 filters with valves to shut off the oil to each filter. a valve was on the oil pan also. a filter could be shut off and the filter changed this way while the other filter was in service, also the valve on the pan was opened and five gal was drained out while five gal was poured in. the interesting part was the dozer was always running. it was loaded on the plane running and had been setting running for years- even with oil changes performed while running.
 
Everyone has their favorites. Personally, I like Baldwin, Wix and NAPA Gold in that order
 
Chevy 2009 Silverado, AC Delco, Fram, Purolator, whatever is cheapest at Walmart. Same goes for the oil if it's SAE rated.
, only engine items changed were fluids, belts, spark plugs, wires and put in a K&N oiled air filter.
Just have a skosh under 250k.
 
Never heard of that. Be interesting to know the rest of history of the vehicle. I change the oil and filter myself every three to four months.

It's very common. It happens regardless of your maintenance schedules. It's a design defect.

Some people use it as an opportunity to do an "AFM Delete" (cam and lifter change) to make sure they never have it again.
 
The Filter Study referenced in the first page of this post is not fully correct anymore. It was copyrighted in 2003. Working for an OEM supplier for 30 yearsI can tell you that changes are made often, mainly to save money.
Just since you had good luck with a water heater, car, home appliance don't expect it to be the same as last time. However chances are a company with a good reputation will still be ok.
 
Interesting how so many are calling Fram filters junk. Yet Fram has made oil filters for just about every know engine type on the planet, auto shop, home mechanics and heavy equipment engines have used them for years and years and they have done the job they are intended too do, just fine. But then we are intitled to our opinion to make a comment.
 
Interesting how so many are calling Fram filters junk. Yet Fram has made oil filters for just about every know engine type on the planet, auto shop, home mechanics and heavy equipment engines have used them for years and years and they have done the job they are intended too do, just fine. But then we are intitled to our opinion to make a comment.

Fram makes a lot of filters and they have differing qualities. Blanket statements that they're all 'junk' is just willful ignorance. Just because they may make filters for other companies, under other brands, doesn't tell you anything about the standards to which those filters were made. No one is saying Frame is incapable of making good filters.

What many of us are saying is that we have a lot better options than the old Frame "Extra Guard" (orange can) filter. You can pick whatever filter works for you. EG Fram filters are the only ones I've seen collapsed; I don't use them.
 
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Amsoil filter along with Amsoil "Signature "blend oil.
Synthetic oil good for 25,000 miles and the filter matches, but I don't put more than 8,000 miles on it before a change.
A friend takes my waste oil runs it through a couple of coffee filters then puts it in his 15 year old chevy pick up.
Same here. Amsoil filters are hands down the best there is. No question about it. Do a cutaway and tear down the different brands and it’s blatantly obvious that Amsoil is by far the most superior and robust filter in the market. I run my changes about 8k and check the oil every 1000 miles after 5k to ensure the detergents are still good. Detergents are still good at 8k but I change it anyhow

Amsoil oil is really good too. I run Amsoil in all my gas engines but for Diesel engines I use Hotshots Secret oil. Hotshots fluids are the only brand that I would say is better than Amsoil. I also run Hotshots transmission fluid, gear oil, coolant, fuel additives, and fuel system cleaners. All of their products are as good as it gets.

Unfortunately Hotshots doesn’t make oil filters so for that item Amsoil is the only one I’ll use.
 
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I disagree with the filter quality comment to an extent. High quality filters on gas engines aren’t nearly as important as they are on turbo Diesel engines due to the high level of soot introduced to diesel oil from the engine and having to lubricator a very high rpm turbo bearing. A person could say that brand “X” has worked fine for years on their gassers, but you can read for days on issues with the same brand on diesels. You better be running the best filter money can buy if you have a Diesel engine because the job of an oil filter is so much harder. I actually run 2 oil filters on my Cummins, an Amsoil 25k full syn and an extra Frantz synthetic bypass filter.

I also have to totally disagree on just putting any oil in a vehicle regardless of whether you change it on time, early, or whatever. The quality of oils out there is vastly different. Sure any bulk barrel crap in a quick lube will work but you’ll be sorry in the long run if you plan on keeping the vehicle a long time. I have had multiple vehicles with over 200k miles and none have ever burned a drop of oil.
And I don’t drive my vehicles very nicely ;)

I don’t care how long you run your oil. If you run the best full synthetic PAO Level IV oil with a 15-25k filter for only 3k miles, that’s still far better for your engine than running the cheap crappy oil and filters the same amount of time. Spend the little extra money to put top quality fluids in your vehicle and your engine will pay you back with excellent reliability and longevity.
 
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It's very common. It happens regardless of your maintenance schedules. It's a design defect.

Some people use it as an opportunity to do an "AFM Delete" (cam and lifter change) to make sure they never have it again.
Design defect in the engine? What engines? The filters? What filters? I've been driving and servicing my own vehicles since 1964 and had vehicles with over 300,000 miles on them and never had this experience. Not say it doesn't exist but there must be something else going on.
 
Design defect in the engine?

Yes, it's a lifter issue. The pin dislodges (most common) or the roller just seizes.

It generally starts with a misfire code. The diag is pretty simple if you suspect it; pull the valve cover and see if the rocker arm is loose.

Not say it doesn't exist but there must be something else going on.


You can also google it. I'm not here to convince you of my conclusions, draw your own. I know how many I've seen, and I just do this as a side hustle. It's more common on the 2014+ engines, but the ones before that are not immune, it's just not as prolific.
 
Yes, it's a lifter issue. The pin dislodges (most common) or the roller just seizes.

It generally starts with a misfire code. The diag is pretty simple if you suspect it; pull the valve cover and see if the rocker arm is loose.




You can also google it. I'm not here to convince you of my conclusions, draw your own. I know how many I've seen, and I just do this as a side hustle. It's more common on the 2014+ engines, but the ones before that are not immune, it's just not as prolific.
Gotcha, My engine doesn't have the AFM setup. Hopefully, I"m good for another 100k. :)
 
Y’all worry too much about the filters. My 1930 Model A Tudor didn’t even come with an oil or air filter. Henry didn’t think they needed them. It’s 92 years old and still running strong!
 

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