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Does anyone neck turn anymore?

With the introduction of more higher quality brass options, it doesn't seem like anyone bothers with neck turning anymore.

I'm going to neck turn some 22/250 and 220 swift Winchester brass (that's all I could find), but it's been awhile since I've done so. I know my Forster hand held neck turner pilot has a diameter of 0.224", but I can't find a 0.224" next expander die. I thought Lyman used to have expander dies, but it looks like what they offer now is tapered and have a flare to them. I'm wondering if I just fire-form all the brass if that will open the necks up enough that I can turn.
 
Do not attempt to turn necks on unsized, fireformed brass. The necks will be oversized (if fired from a standard neck chamber) for the cutters pilot. Even if you only have .001” clearance with the fired brass, you still need to size / expand the necks for uniformity. You pretty much want a slip fit between pilot and the brass, in order to keep the cut consistent.
 
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Agree with the others, most of the time you will want to size the full length of the neck to have a very specific relation to the turning pilot. If it is too tight you can find yourself fighting the heat and friction problem, if it is too loose you can get chatter and variation in the quality of the cut. It takes a little experimentation to get the Goldilocks fit with the turning pilot.

You also have to try to avoid a diameter change near the shoulder junction, so be sure you size the full length of the neck all the way to the shoulder or you will cut too deeply at the junction and cause yourself more problems. It takes attention to detail in order to get a nice blend at the shoulders.

The IDOD method grabs the case body and turns the inside and outside at the same time, so it runs on a completely different philosophy in terms of how you want that case prepped for turning.
 
Is the point of neck turning to have case necks that just fit into the chamber, and don't expand too much when fired?

Its more about getting consistent neck thickness and thus consistent neck tension.

Its also about being able to use more of the brass. If all brass had neck wall variance of .001" or less then we wouldn't need to neck turn. However, most lots of brass will have quite a few cases with more the .001" of neck wall variance. If we turn these then we can use them.
 
I started neck turning in 1975 and still do. It is surely not to increase hand strength but rather uniformity which is reproduced on my targets.
 
I guess I'm the odd one, I don't neck turn anymore. I typically use Lapua or Norma brass and just recently bought my first batch of 6BRA Alpha brass that so far has performed very well also.
 
I guess I'm the odd one, I don't neck turn anymore. I typically use Lapua or Norma brass and just recently bought my first batch of 6BRA Alpha brass that so far has performed very well also.
not odd at all...

 
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I guess I'm the odd one, I don't neck turn anymore. I typically use Lapua or Norma brass and just recently bought my first batch of 6BRA Alpha brass that so far has performed very well also.
I don’t neck turn. I use Lapua brass and lately Peterson.
 
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Do not attempt to turn necks on unsized, fireformed brass. The necks will be oversized (if fired from a standard neck chamber) for the cutters pilot. Even if you only have .001” clearance with the fired brass, you still need to size / expand the necks for uniformity. You pretty much want a slip fit between pilot and the brass, in order to keep the cut consistent.
Doesn't the cutter press the brass against the pilot no matter what clearance?
 
I think you should dump the Forster and get better tools for this.
It really is best to expand NEW necks for turning. No firing or neck downsizing sizing.
 
I’m currently in the no turn rabbit hole and it seems good so far.
Maybe if I get bored shoving a rusty nail down my pisshole I’ll go back to neck turning.
 
Doesn't the cutter press the brass against the pilot no matter what clearance?
Yes and no.
Imagine the work piece is well piloted at one end of the spectrum, and not piloted at all on the other.

The less piloting the work has, the more the angle of the neck and cutter can vary. The more that kerf angle changes, the harder it gets to make a smooth cut or feed.

It doesn't need to be very tight, but it can't be sloppy either.

https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/neck-turning-basics/

https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/neck-turning-tool-cutting-tips/

https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/complete-precision-case-prep/

Been a long time since the above articles came out and I will admit I haven't read them in years, but there they are in case they help.
 

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