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Bringing a cold rifle inside

I’ve read it’s best to leave a cold rifle in the cold vs constantly going for warm to cold. If you have to bring it inside what are you doing to your rifle? I like to leave my barrel fouled so I don’t run a patch or anything down it, maybe I should be running a dry patch but it’s be a daily thing so I’m wondering if that would do more harm than good? I leave my scope caps open, magazine out, bolt to the rear. I’ll let it sit for awhile then wipe the outside off and put it up. What’s your process?
 
I bring it in, tear it down and place it over my heat register to dry and then wipe down lightly. Lived in AK for quite a few years, while there I would not bring inside in the wintertime due to metal being below freezing, when it thaws it attracts moisture. I would leave out in garage to "acclimate" slowly and then bring in.
 
You better keep it well oiled if going in and out or the bore will rust and pit on you. Still, I guess that depends on your humidity levels, mine is usually 75% to 95% except for a few days of the year. Everything sweats either going in or out so out they stay out until cleaned.

Just checked accuweather,
Humidity
97%
 
I bring mine in and let them sit until they reach inside temp. Then they sit to dry off any “dew”. Then I clean ‘em, bag’em and put’em away.
Most of my guns are stainless. Any blued guns get special attention.
So what’s your process on the blued guns?
 
"I leave my scope caps open, magazine out, bolt to the rear. I’ll let it sit for awhile then wipe the outside off and put it up. What’s your process?"

This is exactly what I do and have no problems at all. Just have to pay attention to them...just a cold trip vs blizzard conditions will require different attention.
 
You better keep it well oiled if going in and out or the bore will rust and pit on you. Still, I guess that depends on your humidity levels, mine is usually 75% to 95% except for a few days of the year. Everything sweats either going in or out so out they stay out until cleaned.

Just checked accuweather,
Humidity
97%
That’s why I was wondering about just a dry patch. I like to hunt with a fouled barrel. I’m not about to burn 2-3 rounds a day from oiling every night.
 
About 15 years ago when I was all-in for precision rifle stuff, I was crazy about cleaning, barrel break-in routines, round count documention, etc. As my family grew and my time/interest waned, I didn't do a lot of that OCD stuff, but I continued to shoot. I still took care of my stuff. At some point, I had the realization that most of that stuff to prevent future issues was just a waste of time. None of bad things I was trying to prevent actually happened. Now I take a bit of a different approach, I recognize that my guns are like my tools (SnapOn, Mac, Matco). I take care of them but I'm not going to obsess over it because for me, it simply doesn't matter. They're tools to use and enjoy.

Maybe it's my climate. Maybe I'm just lucky. Maybe I'm just blissfully unaware of the impending doom I'm about to discover from my lack of OCD. I'm not sure.

YMMV.
 
+1 on JRanum's post.
Leave it in the case until warmed up.
Humidity will condense on cold metal. But the case will keep that warmer air off it and let the gun warm up slowly.

Suggest testing how it shoots after a dry patch compared to not. If it shoots the same, a dry patch or 2 to remove the easy crud might help reduce corrosion.
 
When hunting I don't like to take a warm rifle out to the cold because I want all of the dissimilar material components to be at thermal equilibrium. So I at least put it outside the night before. My barrels are stainless so I don't worry about leaving them fouled when bringing inside.
 
Put it in a case at the range and leave it in the case when you bring it inside, for 24 hrs.
I do that too. I use padded soft cases, which provide a little insulation and slow down warmup even more. After it warms up I put it in a unsafe that's equipped with a Goldenrod warmer. I usually run a couple of dry patches thru the bore because I think powder fouling is likely to be hygroscopic. I don't know that for a fact, but assume it to be so because I do know that carbon is. I should add that I live in central Arkansas, so don't get the temperature extremes like up north, but it still gets cold enough in the winter to suit me. Also, for medical reasons I no longer shoot center fire so don't have to worry about copper fouling.
 
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I do that too. I use padded soft cases, which provide a little insulation and slow down warmup even more. After the gun warms up I put it in a gunsafe that's equipped with a Goldenrod warmer. I usually run a couple of dry patches thru the bore because I think powder fouling is likely to be hygroscopic. I don't know that for a fact, but assume it to be so because I do know that carbon is. I should add that I live in central Arkansas, so don't get the temperature extremes like up north, but it still gets cold enough in the winter to suit me. Also, for medical reasons I no longer shoot center fire so don't have to worry about copper fouling.
 
I ordered from Grangers polyethylene thick mil ziplock bags sized for what ever type of firearm or camera equipment brought in from the cold. The method is to insert what ever it is into the bag outside and squeeze out as much the air from the bag, then zip it closed. I will also have a pack of desiccant in the bag. I learned this when I used to do a lot of outdoor wildlife photography after condensation short circuited a $350 Nikon camera flash.
 
I ordered from Grangers polyethylene thick mil ziplock bags sized for what ever type of firearm or camera equipment brought in from the cold. The method is to insert what ever it is into the bag outside and squeeze out as much the air from the bag, then zip it closed. I will also have a pack of desiccant in the bag. I learned this when I used to do a lot of outdoor wildlife photography after condensation short circuited a $350 Nikon camera flash.
The bags like that made for guns are great. All of my guns reside in one. In the safe or in a hard case!
 

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