New guy upgrade & process questions

[Plinkit]

Forgive the long winded post from a new guy, and thanks for any advice

Just joining the forum as my interests in shooting are changing a bit, and this forum seems to be filled with people interested in shooting in more precision oriented capacities. I have a couple questions to follow and some general notes about what I'm thinking of doing moving forward if anyone has guidance, advice, or thoughts on any of them I'd be interested in knowing before spending what I consider a substantial amount of money to make these changes.

I have reloaded for plinking rounds and hunting rounds for a while now without any issue, but if I'm going to take precision shooting seriously it appears I'll need to make some upgrades to my process and equipment.

I have a couple rifles that appear more capable than myself with higher quality factory ammo. This leaves me to believe it might be time to upgrade my reloading room and process to a level of gear that'll support being more precise as I continue to learn.

Now I've read & watched videos until my eyes bleed trying to learn the "correct" methods for precision reloading and load development. I'm aware each topic can turn into a discussion in itself... So I'm going to start at trying to upgrade my ability to reload to a more capable level.

All I have done up until this point is use a full length die and a bullet seater set up for each caliber. I have been using the redding competition shell holders to cut back on shoulder bump, but that's about the only "improvement" I've made to my actual reloading process.

Now to finally get to some questions after my long winded intro...

My first question is for scales and powder throw. I have been using the Hornady cheap scale, powder throw and trickler that came with my kit for several years now... I have been watching the fx120i but by the time I look at getting it set up in an automated fashion I'm looking at well over a grand on sticker prices. The next option down I am looking at is getting the rcbs matchmaster unit for a more integrated scale and throw combo. So question being when looking at this budget range (since I can't justify a prometheus) is the match master leaving enough room for improvement over the fx120i that I should ever be at a disadvantage? Or at this point is it mostly semantics?... Is there something else I should be looking at in this range as well?

Next thing I'm considering is "upgrading" my dies and process. From my limited knowledge of various methods vs cost I'm under the impression that a body only die and a lee collet die are an exceptional way to get started without a huge price per caliber. I already have most of the lee ultimate sets in my calibers of interest so I'd only need to purchase a body only die. When considering doing this for a half dozen calibers only needing to buy the body die is not a huge expense so this seems reasonable. (If this doesn't seem like a logical progression to move to from fl only sizing I'd be interested in your thoughts)

The last major change for my process would be moving to a more mechanical front rest and rear bag combo. I have been following more prs style shooting and advice for long enough now that all I hear is bipod and sand sock... Even for load development... I know in this manner I can keep things together some days, but I'm not confident that I can ever get to the level I'm interested in this way. How much of a learning curve would I need to look at moving to a machine front rest? Should this be a no brainier for being more consistent? Or will I need to consider that this is a new way to shoot that will take time to address before I can switch to testing and development in this manner? I have been looking at the caldwell fire control unit as a way to test this method of shooting. I know there are better options for a joy stick rest but I'm not jumping into f open right the minute so I'm hoping this will hold me until maybe I get to a point that's an option later.

If you haven't fallen asleep yet I appreciate your thoughts and I'll save my next few questions for my next book lol

 

[HTSmith]

I'll take a shot at a couple of your questions. Yes I believe a body die coupled with Lee Collet will make top shelf loads. Seating depth is a huge deal and you may want to invest in a micrometer type seating die later on. Depending on the volume of loads you need, but I get by fine with manually trickling on a fx120i. I also have a Scott Parker tuned balance scale that is just as accurate (with a camera on the pointer), but that is a very long wait. Enjoy the ride, it will cost some money

 

[std7mag]

Welcome to the forum, from another fairly new guy!

I really only started looking at/shooting matches this year. Mostly UBR/IBS, groundhog matches. I have done the F-Open route too.

While i'm doing matches against other shooters, i look upon it as more of a learning experience for me. I know i'm not going to be going to any national matches.

For my reloading, i lean towards the KISS method. Keep It Simple, Stupid.
And works ok, when aimed at myself.

Even shooting/reloading for matches, i use the Lee dippers, a Lee scale (yup, the plastic one), and a Hornady $20 trickler.

Keep your eye on the clasifieds here, Amazon, and Ebay. People upgrading, or getting out of the sport often sell below new pricing, and reloaders tend to take care of their equipment.
When the weather warms up, garage/yard sales, and flea markets are good places to keep an eye on.

As for dies, i have all the manufacturers. Just depended upon who had a deal, and on what cartridge.
Many here will tell you to "bump your shoulder back".
I only have 1 range gun, so almost all my reloading is for hunting.
I like neck sizing, and the collet dies, for the simple fact they don't work the brass as much.

As for rest and bags. I have a Caldwell front rest, (no, not the br rest) and Caldwell rear bag.
Some of the rests i've seen are stupid expensive!
The joystick, as was explained to me, lets you adjust for multiple targets (IBS, UBR) quickly, but may not be as steady as a regular rest.

 

[itchyTF]

If you like diy projects there is another solution for an auto trickler. Check this out - https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/open-trickler-the-diy-smart-powder-trickler.3978138/

I'm sure you've heard the expression "buy once, cry once". You might consider this when you buy a joystick rest or anything else for that matter.

 

[JimSC]

On rests and bags - call Protektor, tell them about your rifles and ambitions. They will set you up with the right bags. Their front rest is nice also

Complete Rest Sets

Save a few bucks on these complete rest sets picked for you. **The Deluxe Bumble Bee and the DR rear bags are some of our most popular rear bags. If you purchase a set including one of these rear bags it may have a lead time of approx. 1-2 weeks, depending on our order volume. **

protektormodel.com

On dies I like the full length bushing style dies, Redding S type are my die of choice but Wilsons, Forster etc are all good. If you really go down the rabbit hole and start turning necks you will need to be able to adjust the neck size. Lee collet neck dies used with Redding body dies are another good option

on measuring . There is a good thread on the RCBS Chargemaster posted by Dirty Steve. Take time to read it

Chargemaster 1500

Would any one recommend a Chargemaster make me happy? Loading for F-Class???

forum.accurateshooter.com

have fun and welcome

 

[Plinkit]

I'll take a shot at a couple of your questions. Yes I believe a body die coupled with Lee Collet will make top shelf loads. Seating depth is a huge deal and you may want to invest in a micrometer type seating die later on. Depending on the volume of loads you need, but I get by fine with manually trickling on a fx120i. I also have a Scott Parker tuned balance scale that is just as accurate (with a camera on the pointer), but that is a very long wait. Enjoy the ride, it will cost some money

Good to know my understanding of the body die and collet die sounds functional

I am looking at the "universal" micrometer seating die from frankford arsenal as a possible way to step up my seating adjustments as well. Was going to save that question till a little bit later though

Interesting that a balance scale can have a similar manner of resolution... I was unaware that was even an option. I will certainly look into this as a non electronic option is of interest

 

[josh shrum]

I will throw in my 2 cents worth.

Regarding powder measurement, I used a good old RCBS Chargemaster for about a year before I upgraded to an FX 120i. In that time I shot a 250-25X followed by an IBS record, as well as taking Rookie Shooter of the Year. I still use the Chargemaster to throw "rough" charges that I trickle up on the FX 120i, and can say that mine generally throws within two tenths of a grain. I want to upgrade to the new version but plan to keep using my current Chargemaster until it breaks.

As to dies, if you have Full Length dies that dont over work your brass, you could remove the expander ball from them and use an expander mandrel to size your necks from the inside. This would require you to purchase one mandrel die to hold the mandrel as well as the mandrels for your specific caliber(s). You can get mandrels in just about any diameter you want, allowing you to customize neck tension. This is also a nice way to avoid neck turning if your chambers allow it.

Mechanical front rests are fabulous, so long as your stock/chassis fits the bag. There are several "bag rider" attachments you can purchase that mount to your stock/chassis which would fit this purpose. If you go the mechanical front rest route, invest in a quality rear bag as well.

 

[Plinkit]

Welcome to the forum, from another fairly new guy!

I really only started looking at/shooting matches this year. Mostly UBR/IBS, groundhog matches. I have done the F-Open route too.

While i'm doing matches against other shooters, i look upon it as more of a learning experience for me. I know i'm not going to be going to any national matches.

For my reloading, i lean towards the KISS method. Keep It Simple, Stupid.
And works ok, when aimed at myself.

Even shooting/reloading for matches, i use the Lee dippers, a Lee scale (yup, the plastic one), and a Hornady $20 trickler.

Keep your eye on the clasifieds here, Amazon, and Ebay. People upgrading, or getting out of the sport often sell below new pricing, and reloaders tend to take care of their equipment.
When the weather warms up, garage/yard sales, and flea markets are good places to keep an eye on.

As for dies, i have all the manufacturers. Just depended upon who had a deal, and on what cartridge.
Many here will tell you to "bump your shoulder back".
I only have 1 range gun, so almost all my reloading is for hunting.
I like neck sizing, and the collet dies, for the simple fact they don't work the brass as much.

As for rest and bags. I have a Caldwell front rest, (no, not the br rest) and Caldwell rear bag.
Some of the rests i've seen are stupid expensive!
The joystick, as was explained to me, lets you adjust for multiple targets (IBS, UBR) quickly, but may not be as steady as a regular rest.

Thanks

I'm not very familiar with the various classifications other than open and tr and I will be there mainly to learn a little as well. I CERTAINLY have no fantasy about ever being seen at a national level match lol.

I have already gone over to the dark side of bumping my shoulders already so I hate to move away from that

It sounds as if we may be coming from similar points in this hobby and trying to learn a little more. I might even have the same simple caldwell front rest lol

I've been budgeting and selling items to fund this hobby overhaul and I'm certainly looking to move towards a more automated throw system than what I have been doing which sounds very similar to your method.

The multi target function is why I'm thinking this would be a useful design in a front rest. If shooting round robin on a seating depth test I'm thinking the joystick could be a benefit. If the non joy stick rest are actually more stable maybe I should consider something more like the caldwell BR unit I suppose though..

You've given me a couple more things to ponder as well

Thank you

 

[Plinkit]

If you like diy projects there is another solution for an auto trickler. Check this out - https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/open-trickler-the-diy-smart-powder-trickler.3978138/

I'm sure you've heard the expression "buy once, cry once". You might consider this when you buy a joystick rest or anything else for that matter.

That looks to be a very interesting project, though possibly more than I'll bite off at the moment. I may mark this for future reference in case I back up from the match master to just getting the fx120i alone for the time being. Then I could make an upgraded project later I suppose. I still need to do some research to understand if the match master really looses that much when completed to the 120 balance

Yes, I am trying to finally follow the buy once cry once mind set a little better. The extremely long lead time I am understanding for the more preferred joy stick rest leaves me in a bit of a desire to strike while I have the wife's blessing and my funds in order though...

 

[std7mag]

Oh yes, it can be quite the rabbit hole. Lol

One of the things i've come to realize is that you can get by with some simple, cost effective reloading practices.

But optics is another story. And trigger, but that's another story.

I started with a Vortex Crossfire II 6-18X44. I quickly realized i needed better glass.
Upgraded to a Sightron STAC 4-20X50.
This past week, i found a deal on a Sightron SIII 10-50X60.
Cost me almost as much as my last 2 rifles. But if you can't see it, you can't hit it.

 

[Plinkit]

On rests and bags - call Protektor, tell them about your rifles and ambitions. They will set you up with the right bags. Their front rest is nice also

Complete Rest Sets

Save a few bucks on these complete rest sets picked for you. **The Deluxe Bumble Bee and the DR rear bags are some of our most popular rear bags. If you purchase a set including one of these rear bags it may have a lead time of approx. 1-2 weeks, depending on our order volume. **

protektormodel.com

On dies I like the full length bushing style dies, Redding S type are my die of choice but Wilsons, Forster etc are all good. If you really go down the rabbit hole and start turning necks you will need to be able to adjust the neck size. Lee collet neck dies used with Redding body dies are another good option

on measuring . There is a good thread on the RCBS Chargemaster posted by Dirty Steve. Take time to read it

Chargemaster 1500

Would any one recommend a Chargemaster make me happy? Loading for F-Class???

forum.accurateshooter.com

have fun and welcome

I am not familiar with the company you linked. Thank you for this, and I will do some research on their rests.

I have seen many references to the type S "speedy" die being a solid choice and I would like to experiment with them moving forward. I may try a single caliber set up this way vs my others with the body die and collet die system.

I will read this thread more in depth, but it appears they are speaking of the 1500 and I am considering the match master as I understand it to have a good deal better resolution

Thank you

 

[Plinkit]

I will throw in my 2 cents worth.

Regarding powder measurement, I used a good old RCBS Chargemaster for about a year before I upgraded to an FX 120i. In that time I shot a 250-25X followed by an IBS record, as well as taking Rookie Shooter of the Year. I still use the Chargemaster to throw "rough" charges that I trickle up on the FX 120i, and can say that mine generally throws within two tenths of a grain. I want to upgrade to the new version but plan to keep using my current Chargemaster until it breaks.

As to dies, if you have Full Length dies that dont over work your brass, you could remove the expander ball from them and use an expander mandrel to size your necks from the inside. This would require you to purchase one mandrel die to hold the mandrel as well as the mandrels for your specific caliber(s). You can get mandrels in just about any diameter you want, allowing you to customize neck tension. This is also a nice way to avoid neck turning if your chambers allow it.

Mechanical front rests are fabulous, so long as your stock/chassis fits the bag. There are several "bag rider" attachments you can purchase that mount to your stock/chassis which would fit this purpose. If you go the mechanical front rest route, invest in a quality rear bag as well.

With an intro like that yes please do throw in your 2¢ lol

Good to hear the original charge master is that close, and I have seen other comments about them being very close as well. Having the 120 to finish off the load certainly sounds like a good check system as well. With you having interest in the newer match master it sounds like? Would you just buy it if starting from zero? Or would you still prefer to have the 120? Curious as to you thoughts on this.

I will ASSUME my fl dies excessively work the brass... I simply have been using the fl dies in lee ultimate sets for some time. I could size a case down with no stem to see how far under it goes. Is there and metric that would be considered over work? I am planning to avoid neck turning if I can, and the mandrel I do understand to be a very sound choice. It's the same logic that brought me to understand the collet system to be a sound choice as well though. I'm not sure I fully understand the benefits / drawbacks of each and I may have to ask more pointed questions about this difference as well.

Thank you for the reminder of the bag rider. I'm afraid most of my rifles are more practical or "tactical" designs and I will be planning to run bag riders on the chassis or stock. When you refer to them being fabulous are you in reference to them as a whole? Or mainly screw designs, or joy stick as well?

Thank you for your thoughts

 

[Plinkit]

Oh yes, it can be quite the rabbit hole. Lol

One of the things i've come to realize is that you can get by with some simple, cost effective reloading practices.

But optics is another story. And trigger, but that's another story.

I started with a Vortex Crossfire II 6-18X44. I quickly realized i needed better glass.
Upgraded to a Sightron STAC 4-20X50.
This past week, i found a deal on a Sightron SIII 10-50X60.
Cost me almost as much as my last 2 rifles. But if you can't see it, you can't hit it.

Oh yes every individual item seems to be a rabbit hole in itself

I've already accepted that I needed better optics and triggers and such before even making it this far. There was a time I thought $200 bucks was an expensive scope. I'm afraid most of mine fall closer to 10x that at this point though... I have far fewer toys than I once did. They are far more capable than myself now. I have yet to come over to the high magnification like yourself. Most of my scopes still fall around 18-20x and are likely more "tactical" in design than what would be considered ideal for f or bench shooting. If I can get into it a little more I have no doubt I will have to adjust at least one rifle completely to the hobby though.

 

[josh shrum]

With you having interest in the newer match master it sounds like? Would you just buy it if starting from zero? Or would you still prefer to have the 120? Curious as to you thoughts on this.

I am hoping that someone I know ends up buying the new Matchmaster, so that I can try it out/check the consistency. Ideally, it would replace my Chargemaster and the FX120i would only come out occassionaly to spot check things.

I will ASSUME my fl dies excessively work the brass... I simply have been using the fl dies in lee ultimate sets for some time. I could size a case down with no stem to see how far under it goes. Is there and metric that would be considered over work?

This, in my opinion depends on what you are putting into the brass and how much life you hope to get from it. In my case, with 30BR brass, it is expensive Lapua brass. It has been necked up from 6mm to 30cal, neck turned, fireformed, and given my rather clumsy nature, had some blood spilled on it. I want my brass to get worked as little as possible, so custom die and neck bushings. This is why I anneal that brass as well. So far, that first batch of brass has 40 some firings on it. A few of the pieces are just now starting to develop the "click" when I work the bolt.

I just finished working up some 6.5-284 ammo for my hunting rifle. I honestly don't worry about that brass nearly as much. It gets sized in a standard Redding die without the expander ball, then run over a mandrel to size the neck where i want it. For my taste, that particular die over sizes the base of the brass. Not really an issue for me as I doubt I will ever fire the brass enough times to worry about getting the "click".

My suggestion here would be to wait until you find a shooting game that appeals to you and if you have a custom barrel spun up, get dies to match. Until then, run the dies you have with the mandrel or collet system for your necks.

Thank you for the reminder of the bag rider. I'm afraid most of my rifles are more practical or "tactical" designs and I will be planning to run bag riders on the chassis or stock. When you refer to them being fabulous are you in reference to them as a whole? Or mainly screw designs, or joy stick as well?

For the short range competition I participate in, joystick rests are the way to roll. I think the Sinclair style screw type rests are still the mainstay in long range, but don't quote me there. Nothing wrong with the tactical/practical style stocks and chassis. That 6.5-284 I mentioned earlier is currently in an XLR chassis. Later tonight I am going to attach the bag rider to it so I can do some shooting tomorrow off of my Farley rest.

 

[std7mag]

Yeah, don't take me to heart too much.
I have a rather unconventional build planned for my match rifle.
I mostly shoot out to 400 yards with the local matches, but like to stretch things out further on my own.
Currently shooting my wife's Savage 110FP in 223 Rem. Whomever thought a long action for a 223 was a good idea needs commited.
Did the trigger work myself. It is listed from Savage as a "fully adjustable trigger". HA!
Got it down to 1.5lb.
Set it in a Choate Ultimate Varminter stock.
One piece EGW base, Vortex Viper rings and the new untested by me Sightron SIII.

My build to be a Savage target action. Unsure of barrel make as yet, but looking at 30" chambered in 7mm-08AI.
Will have another member on here local to me build the stock.

 

[K22]

There is precision shooting then there's precision shooting. If you're talking benchrest or long range "F" class shooting then I'm not a source for advice. If you're talking precision loading to challenging hunting applications I may have something to offer you.

I consider myself a "precision" shooter because I hunt varmints and predators so I strive for 1/2 moa performance in these rifles / loads. I use standard RCBS dies and full size with a .001 to .002" shoulder bump. There has been a ton of posts on this forum debating full sizing vs. neck sizing. Read them and use your own judgement. I've used both and for me full sizing works best. If done properly it does not reduce case life or reduce accuracy potential in my experience.

I use expanders that are sized to produce minimum drag on the case neck. I have several expander assemblies sized in .001" increments to accommodate different rifles / lots of brass.

I hand prime each case with a Sinclair precision priming tool.

I adjust seating depths to produce optimum results for each rifle but never jam the bullet into the lands maintaining at least a .010" jump to the lands to account for variations in bullet ogives.

I use a standard beam balance and trickle in powder charges, weighing each load since I use "stick" powder.

In my better rifles with custom barrels, I've been able to achieve consistent groups in the sub 1/2 moa range. Not going to win any bench rest matches but it wrecks havoc on ground hogs.

Bottom Line: Depending on your goals, the amount of time and money you want to commit, you can achieve good results with standard equipment if used properly. Quite honestly, within reason I've learned than I get more return on investment by becoming a better marksman than squeezing out a few more .1" tighter groups. This mean practical range practice rather than extensive load development off the bench.

 

[Plinkit]

I am hoping that someone I know ends up buying the new Matchmaster, so that I can try it out/check the consistency. Ideally, it would replace my Chargemaster and the FX120i would only come out occassionaly to spot check things.

It may be a little of a gamble as I still haven't spoken with anyone that has used the matchmaster personally, but the idea of it being both a chargemaster and a fx120i stand in does seem to justify the thought process... I guess I'll order and you can come to VA and compare if you like lol

This, in my opinion depends on what you are putting into the brass and how much life you hope to get from it. In my case, with 30BR brass, it is expensive Lapua brass. It has been necked up from 6mm to 30cal, neck turned, fireformed, and given my rather clumsy nature, had some blood spilled on it. I want my brass to get worked as little as possible, so custom die and neck bushings. This is why I anneal that brass as well. So far, that first batch of brass has 40 some firings on it. A few of the pieces are just now starting to develop the "click" when I work the bolt.

I just finished working up some 6.5-284 ammo for my hunting rifle. I honestly don't worry about that brass nearly as much. It gets sized in a standard Redding die without the expander ball, then run over a mandrel to size the neck where i want it. For my taste, that particular die over sizes the base of the brass. Not really an issue for me as I doubt I will ever fire the brass enough times to worry about getting the "click".

My suggestion here would be to wait until you find a shooting game that appeals to you and if you have a custom barrel spun up, get dies to match. Until then, run the dies you have with the mandrel or collet system for your necks.

I have mainly been buying a case of fgmm factory ammo and then maintaining the brass for 5 firings then discarding.

I will likely maintain this philosophy a while longer since I am not working with any custom chambers. I also like having the ability to grab a factory box and plink a bit or put holes in pests.

For the short range competition I participate in, joystick rests are the way to roll. I think the Sinclair style screw type rests are still the mainstay in long range, but don't quote me there. Nothing wrong with the tactical/practical style stocks and chassis. That 6.5-284 I mentioned earlier is currently in an XLR chassis. Later tonight I am going to attach the bag rider to it so I can do some shooting tomorrow off of my Farley rest.

I do have a semi-local range that I can do 1k (though this is steel set up for prs events basically) but my range at home is 350 so I'm considering that my short-range test bed for seeing if I can become more consistent. So I may carry on with the caldwell fire control for now and see how I fair.

Most of my rifles are chassis models as well and will be trying to configure it for bag riding when trying to experiment

 

[josh shrum]

Most of my rifles are chassis models as well and will be trying to configure it for bag riding when trying to experiment

Don't under estimate what you can do with a bipod and rear bag.

If you are just looking for as much precision and accuracy as you can get from your current gear then a mechanical front rest won't really bring much more to the table. Those mechanical rests allow a shooter to navigate a target quickly (multiple targets on one piece of paper like in Score Benchrest) and/or make quick adjustments to point of aim during a timed match. In addition you have a rest which, when set up properly with your rear bag, allows you to return the rifle to the same position every time. This is all geared towards allowing a shooter to get record shots on paper within a match time limit as efficiently as possible.

If you don't need to quickly navigate a target then a more expensive front rest may not be the way to go at this stage.

I have ZERO experience with the Caldwell so I cannot comment as to it's quality and effectiveness for your purposes. I will say that there is a reason that most front rests you see people talking about here generally run 4 figures. A quality bipod and quality rear bag (Protektor DR Bag, SEB Bag, Lenzi, Gator) may be your best bet. Since you already have mostly chassis anyways, attaching a good bipod will be simple.

 

[Plinkit]

Don't under estimate what you can do with a bipod and rear bag.

If you are just looking for as much precision and accuracy as you can get from your current gear then a mechanical front rest won't really bring much more to the table. Those mechanical rests allow a shooter to navigate a target quickly (multiple targets on one piece of paper like in Score Benchrest) and/or make quick adjustments to point of aim during a timed match. In addition you have a rest which, when set up properly with your rear bag, allows you to return the rifle to the same position every time. This is all geared towards allowing a shooter to get record shots on paper within a match time limit as efficiently as possible.

If you don't need to quickly navigate a target then a more expensive front rest may not be the way to go at this stage.

I have ZERO experience with the Caldwell so I cannot comment as to it's quality and effectiveness for your purposes. I will say that there is a reason that most front rests you see people talking about here generally run 4 figures. A quality bipod and quality rear bag (Protektor DR Bag, SEB Bag, Lenzi, Gator) may be your best bet. Since you already have mostly chassis anyways, attaching a good bipod will be simple.

No I really don't have a need to navigate targets quickly, and only benefit I could list is shooting a round robin type of chain

My main interest was finding ways to limit my input on the rifle more. When using bipod and squeeze bag I'm using my grip on the bag for elevation then position and pressure for windage.

My "theory" or understanding was that moving towards mechanical rest would allow me a way to adjust with less "input" from me

When saying bipod I'm assuming you mean something not along the lines of the sinclair f class bipod? Because I'm at a loss for using bags like you listed with my harris or atlas unless I were to move to something like the 4AW adjustable bag base maybe?

I'm CERTAINLY not fixed on trying to use the Caldwell. I'm just trying to figure out how to move towards a set up that might help limit my abilities to screw up the shot lol

 

[dgeesaman]

First thought: I recommend a basic Chargemaster or similar automatic thrower. I was able to consistently get within .1 grains with mine. Unless you’re competing at 600+ yards, more accurate powder charges aren’t necessary. It’s getting close to the season where these go on good sales.

Second thought: you will receive many tips and advice. It is always fair to ask whether this tip is based on proven data or is actually reducing the variance of the cartridge just because it’s possible. For example, consistency of bullets matters, and there’s countless examples of inconsistent bullets grouping bigger than consistent ones. For another example, runout of the assembled cartridge- there isn’t evidence that runout and group size consistently (if at all) line up. But it’s a variable that can be controlled and error reduced, in case it helps.
Im not saying to ignore advice that isn’t based on double blind studies published in peer reviewed journals. But make sure you know the context for every technique and decide if it’s worth your time and money right now.