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Barrel fitting

What's a guy do if your headstock is too wide for an outboard support? I have a nice MoriSeiki lathe but it's a little too wide for the barrels to stick out the end. Would pressing on a ring trued up to the bore and turned to slip in the headstock be fine? Or maybe clamping something on the barrel to extend it so it could reach past the spindle tube to an outboard support would be better. Any ideas from some of you that have dealt with this before would be appreciated.
 
What's a guy do if your headstock is too wide for an outboard support? I have a nice MoriSeiki lathe but it's a little too wide for the barrels to stick out the end. Would pressing on a ring trued up to the bore and turned to slip in the headstock be fine? Or maybe clamping something on the barrel to extend it so it could reach past the spindle tube to an outboard support would be better. Any ideas from some of you that have dealt with this before would be appreciated.
You can make a ring or a set of rings one for muzzle end and one for the breach end
A lot of guys do it this way on larger machines
http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?59097-Jackie-chambering-a-Barrel-(Pictures
 
Ive seen guys drill and tap the muzzle end and attach a bar that screws into the muzzle end that will be cut off anyway. Then another piece threaded internally to extend the tenon when crowning. You can make a barrel 6’ long if you want.
i thought of making a sleeve with setscrews to slide over the barrel but i wondered if the setscrews would cause bore damage. i like the drill and tap idea better i think.
 
What's a guy do if your headstock is too wide for an outboard support?...

How about something like Bob Pastor's (The Viper) "Chambering and Truing Fixture"?


IMG_6554.JPG
 
Good point
Have you found that top or bottom dead center makes a difference other then letting the arc go where it lands or ends up?

Thinking further and for clarity, when I said "mean" wobble, it is to say the gross or largest point of run out away from center of indicated points or datums. You may have understood but my friend reading this asked what I meant by it. Barrels don't just have a single arc. When you are dialed in stress free and ready to work, go to muzzle and read at muzzle and 3"in. This would be how to determine where the muzzle is really pointing. You come to the same conundrum as indicating at breach. Imagine a laser that is stuck in the muzzle coincident to the last couple inches, would it be pointing at your target? Now imagine sliding that laser through the bore, it would squirrel all over the joint as it was moving. I'm still testing things and is why I bought lathe.
I'm not saying this is the best or the only way to do it. Lord knows there's no shortage of narcissism on the net.;)
 
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Thinking further and for clarity, when I said "mean" wobble, it is to say the gross or largest point of run out away from center of indicated points or datums. You may have understood but my friend reading this asked what I meant by it. Barrels don't just have a single arc. when you are dialed in stress free and ready to work, go to muzzle and indicate at muzzle and 3"in. This would be how to determine where the muzzle is really pointing. You come to the same conundrum as indicating at breach. Imagine a laser that is stuck in the muzzle coincident to the last couple inches, would it be pointing at your target? Now imagine sliding that laser through the bore, it would squirrel all over the joint as it was moving. I'm still testing things and is why I bought lathe.
I'm not saying this is the best or the only way to do it. Lord knows there's no shortage of narcissism on the net.;)
I undestood you
Now wouldn't the length of the flat on your bullet or the soon to be engraved lenght of bullet going though barrel be as far as you need to look and if you are still within a couple tenths in that lenght mean you are good to go?
 
I undestood you
Now wouldn't the length of the flat on your bullet or the soon to be engraved lenght of bullet going though barrel be as far as you need to look and if you are still within a couple tenths in that lenght mean you are good to go?

Imo, as far as indicating and chambering, yes. I'm not opposed to Gordy's method. In fact I believe a lot of people are doing the same when using a floating reamer holder or pusher. Tooling is very good at following an existing hole.
As far as having the barrel in the optimum position (indexing) for accuracy, not sure.
This area is where I like reading discussions.
 
How about something like Bob Pastor's (The Viper) "Chambering and Truing Fixture"?


IMG_6554.JPG

I'm sure this would work but I would rather keep the actual cutting closer to the chuck for rigidity. I think I'll go with making rings that press on the OD of the barrel and see how that goes.
 
I'm sure this would work but I would rather keep the actual cutting closer to the chuck for rigidity. I think I'll go with making rings that press on the OD of the barrel and see how that goes.

How do you true the inside to the outside of the barrel before you hide it in the spindle?
 
What's a guy do if your headstock is too wide for an outboard support? I have a nice MoriSeiki lathe but it's a little too wide for the barrels to stick out the end. Would pressing on a ring trued up to the bore and turned to slip in the headstock be fine? Or maybe clamping something on the barrel to extend it so it could reach past the spindle tube to an outboard support would be better. Any ideas from some of you that have dealt with this before would be appreciated.
Perfect excuse for buying a second lathe to dedicate to chambering ! Only partially kidding :)
 
What's a guy do if your headstock is too wide for an outboard support? I have a nice MoriSeiki lathe but it's a little too wide for the barrels to stick out the end. Would pressing on a ring trued up to the bore and turned to slip in the headstock be fine? Or maybe clamping something on the barrel to extend it so it could reach past the spindle tube to an outboard support would be better. Any ideas from some of you that have dealt with this before would be appreciated.

I have a Webb 17x40 (Mori Seiki copy) and I use the True bore alignment system. Works great!
 
How do you true the inside to the outside of the barrel before you hide it in the spindle?
What I have done with my rimfire barrels is made delrin bushings too a slight interference fit for the spindle. The muzzle's are all going to be cut to avoid where the lapping had been done. I knock an 1 1/2 inches right off for this. Indicate the bore of the muzzle in the chuck. Take a light chip to tru the O.D. with the bore & press the delrin on. That's when I turn the O.D. for the spindle interference fit.
When I crown the muzzle I've already cut the chamber & tenon threads. Make another piece of delrin & thread for the tenon. Yes I've just used a tap. Thread it on to the breech, on an indicated chamber, & turn the O.D. for the spindle.
I could turn between centers but when it came time to chamber I wasn't comfortable with what I was getting in the steady. That's why I did it this way.
Right or wrong I've felt like I've done the best I could do & haven't lost any sleep over it. :)
Keith
 
You'll get the best chamber if the reamer is following a bore that is coaxial with the spindle of the lathe. If the barrel is bowed and you indicate the ends, then the reamer is following a bore that immediately starts wandering from the axis of the lathe. That is the answer to the original question.
 

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