Breaking in a New Stainless Barrel

[Ccrider]

Gospel right here:
http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html

Informative.

 

[BoydAllen]

There are a couple of factors involved here. First of all, no matter how well lapped a barrel might be, when it is chambered there will be cross land machining marks on the angled part of the throat at the beginning of the lands. If the reamer has smoother edges it may not be as significant an issue, but to some extent it you will see an effect, which brings me to my second point. After the chamber is cut, some smiths do a little judicious polishing to smooth out the throat, while the barrel is still mounted in the lathe. A friend of mine is a smith who picked this up from one of the greats and he does it to all of the barrels that he chambers, very carefully. A couple of months ago I referred another friend to him for some barreling work, and he (the customer) was amazed as to how little color he saw when cleaning after the first shot. He was prepared to go through a 20 or 25 round procedure with several cleanings, but based on what he saw, there was little need. A well known competition shooter that I correspond with from time to time makes a habit of breaking in barrels with as light a load as possible, selecting a powder accordingly. High and normal pressure loads translate into more bullet side pressure, which he believes can complicate the break in process unnecessarily.

 

[muleman69]

What will happen if you rush the break in?

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Gospel right here:
http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html

That link also takes you to a Sniper’s Country link where Gail McMillan is making comments. There he says, nylon brushes are a big no-no related to barrel wear.

 

[Homerange]

That link also takes you to a Sniper’s Country link where Gail McMillan is making comments. There he says, nylon brushes are a big no-no related to barrel wear.

Nice !
Just ditched my nylon brushes !

Break in.
Our method was fire 1 clean, fire 2 clean and so on until strings of 5 but now I assess the copper on the lands at the muzzle and if any on the top of the lands we clean with KG-12 and a bronze brush.
Later if patches say we need to any powder fouling is addressed with a bronze brush and Hoppes #9.

I've always figured copper will show most where projectiles reach highest velocities so we carefully watch for it at the last inch of the barrel.

My sons Tikka 243 in stainless showed a hint of copper on the lands after just 2 shots so it was addressed straight away but thereafter there was no sign of copper after 30 subsequent shots.
To this day that rifle has shot very well for a sporter.

 

[Uncle Ed]

Below is a bore scope photo of a custom hand lapped barrel.

Below is a bore scope photo of a factory button rifled barrel.

So to answer your question, what method was used to make your barrel. And are your bullets being pushed over thousands of speed bumps.

 

[South Pender]

Below is a bore scope photo of a custom hand lapped barrel.

Below is a bore scope photo of a factory button rifled barrel.

So to answer your question, what method was used to make your barrel. And are your bullets being pushed over thousands of speed bumps.

The Douglas barrel was button rifled, and I don't know whether Douglas laps their barrels, although I suspect they don't. So I expect that it might need a little more break-in than a lapped barrel.

One other thing that has come up: what is the problem with stiff nylon brushes?

 

[Bc'z]

They are highly abrasive

 

[South Pender]

They are highly abrasive

Really? I don't see how nylon bristles could be more abrasive than bronze bristles.

 

[Bc'z]

Really? I don't see how nylon bristles could be more abrasive than bronze bristles.

Did you read the link Tommie posted. In that link there is another to click on.
In the second link Gail goes on to explain
"Have you ever noticed how fishing line will wear out the guides on your fishing rod?"
I can certainly tell you for sure that it does
And I dont use cheap rods either, as my
G Loomis collection is akin to some of ya'lls
Gun collection.
It made complete and absolute sense to me.

 

[Uncle Ed]

Really? I don't see how nylon bristles could be more abrasive than bronze bristles.

It s believed hard carbon and grit can become embedded in the nylon bristles.

And foam bore cleaners require far less cleaning rod time in the barrel. Meaning spare the rod and spoil the bore, especially on button rifled barrels.

Below one shot of foam bore cleaner in a 1943 milsurp with a frosted bore and no brushing. And I clean all my modern rifles with foam bore cleaner also. With a button rifled barrel and its speed bumps it will eat a copper bore brush and give false copper readings. And if foam bore cleaner doesn't turn blue the copper is gone.

 

[Bc'z]

@South Pender , he also stated he will not warranty a barrel that has been cleaned with jb's. But I will be using a cleaning paste by seal1 followed with thier CLP.
But we're also talking about Krieger barrels and not a Douglas.
Nothing against Douglas whatsoever.
I just purchased my 2nd Krieger yesterday that will be getting chambered here real soon. I'll be following thier recommendations. As you should with your barrel manufacturer.

 

[AckleymanII]

foaming bore cleaners do not do much for carbon fouling, so don't be delusional about your new found wizz bang cleaner....brushes do the work in removing carbon.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Any fisherman has also seen how fishing line will eat up a shaft behind a prop too. Dont be under the illusion that nylon brushes are easier on your barrels than bronze- far from the truth

 

[Uncle Ed]

foaming bore cleaners do not do much for carbon fouling, so don't be delusional about your new found wizz bang cleaner....brushes do the work in removing carbon.

Foam bore cleaner was developed in the same country that makes Lapua brass (Finland) And I do not consider Sako rifles, Lapua brass or a product developed in Finland as junk.

And "soft" carbon is far easier to remove than hard carbon.

Milfoam The Complete Gun Barrel Cleaning System
https://www.army-technology.com/contractors/artillery/milfoam/

Milfoam solutions for challenges:

• Foam makes powder softer to take away by brushing
• Foamer cleaning system does not need manpower, when it is working
• Foam oxidizes the copper / brass away during cleaning process
• Foam makes plastic residues softer to take away by brushing
• Foam is environmentally safe for user

Main strengths of foam technology are:

• Chemical reaction for removing carbon, copper, and other residues effectively
• The foam covers the complete barrel, 360°
• Easy for use, non-abrasive and non-corrosive
• Cost effective
• Odorless, non-hazardous and environmental friendly

A barrel before cleaning with the Milfoam foam barrel cleaning system.

The same barrel after Milfoam cleaning – all carbon, copper and other residues have been removed with minimal work, time and effort.

Bottom line, not all "American" made foam bore cleaners are made to the same Finnish Milfoam standards.

 

[varget204]

I bore scope new lapped barrels,they are polished length wise,throats are around a/cross,I always run a tight patch w/ JB Bore Brite ,in Throat only ,20-30 swipes , then clean until clean,before shooting.Usually shoot 1 clean ,3 or 4 times,shoot 1-2 5 shot groups and clean.Seems to cut down copper build up.{ if patches are clean after 1 st 3, or 1 st 5 shot group.I only clean after done shooting.Have shot 400 rounds thru my New 6 creedmoor,throat still looks like new.

 

[varget204]

Foam bore cleaner was developed in the same country that makes Lapua brass (Finland) And I do not consider Sako rifles, Lapua brass or a product developed in Finland as junk.

And "soft" carbon is far easier to remove than hard carbon.

Milfoam The Complete Gun Barrel Cleaning System
https://www.army-technology.com/contractors/artillery/milfoam/

Milfoam solutions for challenges:

• Foam makes powder softer to take away by brushing
• Foamer cleaning system does not need manpower, when it is working
• Foam oxidizes the copper / brass away during cleaning process
• Foam makes plastic residues softer to take away by brushing
• Foam is environmentally safe for user

Main strengths of foam technology are:

• Chemical reaction for removing carbon, copper, and other residues effectively
• The foam covers the complete barrel, 360°
• Easy for use, non-abrasive and non-corrosive
• Cost effective
• Odorless, non-hazardous and environmental friendly

A barrel before cleaning with the Milfoam foam barrel cleaning system.

The same barrel after Milfoam cleaning – all carbon, copper and other residues have been removed with minimal work, time and effort.

Bottom line, not all "American" made foam bore cleaners are made to the same Finnish Milfoam standards.

Is this a cannon barrel ?

 

[Bc'z]

That's a hole lotsa lands in groves!
I'm gonna equate that mil in milfoam is for military and that's the barrel of a big ass gun.

 

[Uncle Ed]

That's a hole lotsa lands in groves!
I'm gonna equate that mil in milfoam is for military and that's the barrel of a big ass gun.

The first time I saw foam bore cleaner used was at the Army Depot I worked at and large bore field pieces.

And after work that night I picked up a can on the way home and never regretted it. It works great on cleaning a AR15 below or any "hand held" rifle or pistol.

Below the copper is atomize and turned into a gas when fired and removed from the flash suppressor by the foam.

Below a patch from the same AR15 after one shot of foam bore cleaner.

 

[Bc'z]

The first time I saw foam bore cleaner used was at the Army Depot I worked at and large bore field pieces.

And after work that night I picked up a can on the way home and never regretted it. It works great on cleaning a AR15 below or any "hand held" rifle or pistol.

Below the copper is atomize and turned into a gas and removed from the flash suppressor by the foam.

Below a patch from the same AR15 after one shot of foam bore cleaner.

Where do you get this product?