F-Class Rifle Build — Please Help!

[jeguia]

I’m new. Really new to F-Class Open. I’m asking for your help.

I want to build the following:

.284, Cerus stock, BAT Action, Brux barrel, Jewel trigger.

What I need help with; which BAT action, M or 3LL? What length barrel? What twist? Barrel taper and or fluting?

I’m certain these questions are rudimentary... I really appreciate your help!

Thanks!

 

[B Nettesheim]

Bat M
30”-32”
8.5 or 9 twist
Personally I would skip the fluting
You can taper it if you want otherwise 1.250 straight would work fine
Good luck we look forward to helping you out

 

[Damfino]

Bat M
30”-32”
8.5 or 9 twist
Personally I would skip the fluting
You can taper it if you want otherwise 1.250 straight would work fine
Good luck we look forward to helping you out

Good advice/suggestions.

 

[jeguia]

Bat M
30”-32”
8.5 or 9 twist
Personally I would skip the fluting
You can taper it if you want otherwise 1.250 straight would work fine
Good luck we look forward to helping you out

Thanks a ton... I really appreciate the advice!

 

[Medic505]

You've got 22 pounds to play with in Open Class. Plus a 75 pound rest to lug around...

 

[jeguia]

I have another question... stainless steel or chromoly? Thanks

 

[jeguia]

You've got 22 pounds to play with in Open Class. Plus a 75 pound rest to lug around...

That’s how I hope to get my exercise... LOL! Thanks!

 

[jeguia]

I

That’s how I hope to get my exercise... LOL! Thanks!

In all seriousness; that’s why I ask about barrel length as I’m concerned about making weight.

 

[Ned Ludd]

In .284 Win, many F-Open shooters are using a 32" (finished length) barrel in 1.25" straight contour. Going with a 32" barrel will allow you to hit the 2800 - 2820 fps range with 180 Hybrids at a little lower pressure than a 30" barrel, which will be easier on brass. You shouldn't have issues making weight with those components. However, work with your chosen gunsmith; make sure he/she knows the weight limit and that you need to end up slightly under (i.e. at least a couple ounces headroom). That may also require you to obtain weights for other components yourself, primarily the scope/rings you intend to use, or any other attachments such as a bubble level, so that your smith can add them to the total weight.

 

[mgunderson]

My sling, jacket, and iron sights are easier to transport than a 75 lb front rest. Just a subtle suggestion.

And the target rings are bigger too!

 

[jeguia]

In .284 Win, many F-Open shooters are using a 32" (finished length) barrel in 1.25" straight contour. Going with a 32" barrel will allow you to hit the 2800 - 2820 fps range with 180 Hybrids at a little lower pressure than a 30" barrel, which will be easier on brass. You shouldn't have issues making weight with those components. However, work with your chosen gunsmith; make sure he/she knows the weight limit and that you need to end up slightly under (i.e. at least a couple ounces headroom). That may also require you to obtain weights for other components yourself, primarily the scope/rings you intend to use, or any other attachments such as a bubble level, so that your smith can add them to the total weight.

Outstanding detail Mr Ludd. Thanks for the information and for taking the time!

 

[jeguia]

My sling, jacket, and iron sights are easier to transport than a 75 lb front rest. Just a subtle suggestion.

And the target rings are bigger too!

That’s funny... problem is my old eyes can’t handle that type of shooting any longer.

 

[Zilla]

I use a BAT B and a BAT MB with 32" 1.25 straight barrel.

 

[vahena]

A 32" barrel with a 1.25" straight may be alittle front heaver in a cerus stock. You need to balance the rifle out, my suggestion is to get a Speedy G. taper on the barrel and forget the fluting, barrels are a throw away item. A Bat action or Borden are good choices and you only need a Bat M for F- class. I have 2- 284 shehane's with the Cerus stocks and speedy contours with tuners and Rad 2 recoil butts and the tracking is spot on when you push the rifle forward, that is what you should be looking at..
I am not an expert by any means, JMHO Good luck.

 

[Forum Boss]

I would agree with doing a barrel taper. I have no scientific proof, but I think the taper may affect the harmonics in a positive way. I say this only because I could never get a straight-contour barrel to shoot as well as one that is 0.90- 1.00 at the muzzle. YMMV. Your other component choices are very good but also consider a Borden action. I personally like the .284 improveds, but major F-Open titles have been won with the straight .284 Win.

 

[jamesh]

I would agree with doing a barrel taper. I have no scientific proof, but I think the taper may affect the harmonics in a positive way. I say this only because I could never get a straight-contour barrel to shoot as well as one that is 0.90- 1.00 at the muzzle. YMMV. Your other component choices are very good but also consider a Borden action. I personally like the .284 improveds, but major F-Open titles have been won with the straight .284 Win.

This has been my thought too on the tapered barrels. However some people like David Gosnell can make the straight cylinder barrels shoot rather well.

 

[mgunderson]

That’s funny... problem is my old eyes can’t handle that type of shooting any longer.

My eyes don't handle the irons well either, but my back would not like the front rest. A no win situation!

 

[Medic505]

My eyes don't handle the irons well either, but my back would not like the front rest. A no win situation!

My bipod weighs 1.18 pounds. Total package 17.85. Easy peasy...

 

[ebb]

Yea but your sling will cut off circulation and cause much damage to your arm.

 

[BP1]

My bipod weighs 1.18 pounds. Total package 17.85. Easy peasy...

Is that 85oz or 8.5?