My scope won’t zero ! Help !

[amboy49]

I recently purchased a Savage 10T rifle in .223. I added a Vortex 6-24x50 Viper scope mounted to the factory installed picatinny rail using Vortex 30mm rings. I loaded 50 rounds using new Lapua brass, Winchester primers, 26 gr of Varget, and 55 gr Nosler bullets.

Today I took it to the range for the first time to shoot in the barrel and to zero the scope. I was able to zero the elevation although I had to use most of the adjustment. I NEVER was able to get the windage adjustment to zero. Although all the rounds rounds settled in to a 1” MOA group they were 14” to the left of the bull.

I removed the scope from the rail and reseated it torquing the screws to 20 inch pounds but no change in the poi. I did not remove the rail and remount or double check the mounting screws but I don’t believe the rail mounting could be the problem since the rounds fell into a good grouping.

I am thinking it must be a scope mounting issue, but can’t figure out how to correct the problem. I’d welcome any thoughts or suggestions to correct the problem.

Thanks in advance.

 

[snert]

Put another scope (any scope) on it and see if it is the scope. t may be rings. It may be the holes for the mounts are not aligned. One thing at a time. Scientific method

 

[SSL]

Put another scope (any scope) on it and see if it is the scope. t may be rings. It may be the holes for the mounts are not aligned. One thing at a time. Scientific method

Or even the mount might be machined crooked. Anything manufactured is open for error. Try standard mounts if you have them. Quick reference to see if lateral alignment is correct.

 

[Rsadams]

I own that rifle , and you can bet the base is NOT torqued up , they are all lose from the factory...that really shouldn't be 14 inches off , but yes check the base.. The front screw will be to long and hit the barrel if you try and tighten it down , you can trim the screw to fit or just don't tighten it into the barrel , use PURPLE locktight.....

Check with a scope and rings you know are good... My Savage 10 T has been a great rifle and shoots extremely well.... Be sure your adjusting the scope the correct way.... Seen it happen , the L and R move the bullet left and right... So if it's shooting left turn the adjustment in the R direction to move the impact more right...

 

[Bart B.]

The front of the scope could be bent.

Loosen the rings, rotatevtge scope 90 degrees ccwm then rezero shooting it. See if the error twisted the same.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

That's because Savage rifles are designed to shoot around corners

You can eyeball the base with the barreled action. If it's that crooked, it will be obvious. If it looked straight withe the barrel, it's probably your rings. Try swapping the rings around.

 

[6MMsteve]

I recently purchased a Savage 10T rifle in .223. I added a Vortex 6-24x50 Viper scope mounted to the factory installed picatinny rail using Vortex 30mm rings. I loaded 50 rounds using new Lapua brass, Winchester primers, 26 gr of Varget, and 55 gr Nosler bullets.

Today I took it to the range for the first time to shoot in the barrel and to zero the scope. I was able to zero the elevation although I had to use most of the adjustment. I NEVER was able to get the windage adjustment to zero. Although all the rounds rounds settled in to a 1” MOA group they were 14” to the left of the bull.

I removed the scope from the rail and reseated it torquing the screws to 20 inch pounds but no change in the poi. I did not remove the rail and remount or double check the mounting screws but I don’t believe the rail mounting could be the problem since the rounds fell into a good grouping.

I am thinking it must be a scope mounting issue, but can’t figure out how to correct the problem. I’d welcome any thoughts or suggestions to correct the problem.

Thanks in advance.

burris sig zee rings will fix this easy just rotate the inserts till you get it where you want it, or shim the base or bed the base I think, the zee rings should fix the problem easy you just have to play with it, take your time should be easy, you can play around with the inserts and get full values or clicks on everything, also moving the scope forward or backwards a bit will get full values or clicks, just play with it should work no problem

 

[6MMsteve]

you can also turn the rings around, like if the screw is on the left rotate the side you tighten to the right side lots of options without spending money, except for the zee rings, double chk the bases for burrs also, always deburr all rings around the edges touching the scope put a good chamfer on the rings, I even deburr the burris inserts making sure they have no sharp edges this is what causes ring marks on your scope, getting in a hurry to mount and not doing the little things, mounting a scope should take a hour making sure ething is right as you can make it

 

[6MMsteve]

first take your scope and clamp it down somewhere and make sure the windage and elevation has full value, mount it snug then pick a target you can measure or use a tape measure point the scope at it and start dialing if it aint moving correct you have a scope issue, do this first to make sure the scope has clicks or movement L&R

 

[JohnKielly]

... but while you're doing that, you could run a straight edge along the side of the mount & see if it's pointing the same way as the barrel.

... and while you're at it, make sure the scope base doesn't have elevation built into it, that it, it's the same thickness front & back.

 

[6MMsteve]

... but while you're doing that, you could run a straight edge along the side of the mount & see if it's pointing the same way as the barrel.

... and while you're at it, make sure the scope base doesn't have elevation built into it, that it, it's the same thickness front & back.

lots of ideas surely something will work

 

[Texas10]

I have the 12BVSS in 223, same scope, EGW base, and I've tried a host of rings, now using Warne.
Vortex warns about over torquing scope ring screws, 15 to 18 in lbs is all they recommend. My vortex locked up at 20 in lbs. torque, fortunately I carry a torque wrench with me to the range and backed it off after remembering I'd read something about over torquing the Vortex.

Here's some reading that might help.https://vortexnation.wordpress.com/...t-be-doing-to-properly-mount-your-riflescope/

I'd recommend you start by taking everything apart and recheck the base and screws. Install and torque the front base screw ONLY and confirm the base is tight on the action, and the screw is not bottoming out on the tenon threads. Once you have the scope in the rings, tighten the screw torque to about 10 in lbs and visually verify that the elevation and windage turrets work throughout their entire range, then slowly creep up the torque while again verifying after you get to 15 in lbs. Bore sight it again at 100 yds and see if it's still-mis aligned. If it is, the Burris rings allow for adjusting out that error.

 

[dolek]

I had the same issue,just yesterday actually . Burris Z rings saved the day . I tried two sets of bases and a one piece rail,I was using all the adjustment up just to get zero...by using the inserts to get zero I still have all my clicks left in the scope . Just a temporary fix until I get things figured out,I wanted to take it to the range yesterday. Good luck with it,let us know if you find the issue.

 

[Texas10]

Here is another base that will allow for adjusting out windage errors while mounting.
https://www.opticsplanet.com/leupold-standard-2pc-2-piece-base.html

The two screws on the rear mount allow you to move the rear ring left or right as you tighten it down.

 

[Richard Coody]

savage is known for misalignment of those scope base screws. the front base screw is always too long and bottoms out against the barrel threads before it is ever tight. i remove the barrel and check to see just how much that screw needs shortening. don't even try to remove the barrel until that screw is removed.

lapping the rings might help but the Z rings are probably your best option. just get the base tight before you finish the scope installation.

 

[RetiredArmy]

I own 4 Savage actions. Burris Z rings on all.
Thanks Bill

 

[hogpatrol]

My 2¢: Burris insert rings, no lapping, no misalignment, no ring marks, with 1" scope can get approximately 40 inches of adjustment, 30mm rings 20 inches of adjustment.

 

[CaptainMal]

Amboy49 - Why did you take the first shot?

After mounting you immediately bore sight the scope. Just look through the bore and adjust the scope to match the reticle with where the bore is pointing at some shorter distance, like 50 yards or so. Immediately you should have seen a problem existed. Some of our readers may think this is a bit harsh but I deal with people on a public range that are both clueless and incapable of doing something so simple as this, even after showing how it is done.

After that you start looking for loose things, misalignment etc. Finding none you go to some form of shimming the scope in the rings or the rings in the mount or something to get bore and reticle together. The last thing you do is shoot. Blame yourself for not finding and fixing the issue.

Now report back with your findings and the result.

 

[hogpatrol]

CaptainMal, I hear you and boresighting at a hundred yards, I can usually get within a couple inches of the bullseye BUT some guys just don't have the eyeballs. Hell, some of them have eyesight so bad or eyeglasses not the correct prescription they adjust the diopter to sharpen up the target.

 

[amboy49]

Amboy49 - Why did you take the first shot?

After mounting you immediately bore sight the scope. Just look through the bore and adjust the scope to match the reticle with where the bore is pointing at some shorter distance, like 50 yards or so. Immediately you should have seen a problem existed. Some of our readers may think this is a bit harsh but I deal with people on a public range that are both clueless and incapable of doing something so simple as this, even after showing how it is done.

After that you start looking for loose things, misalignment etc. Finding none you go to some form of shimming the scope in the rings or the rings in the mount or something to get bore and reticle together. The last thing you do is shoot. Blame yourself for not finding and fixing the issue.

Now report back with your findings and the result.

Cap,

I did try to bore sight before I went to the range. I saw the crosshairs high and left - just where the rifle shot . ()

Should have known I was going to have a problem. Just have never experienced this issue so extreme when mounting a scope. BUT, have not used a picatinny rail before so I didn’t know what to expect. I will try the suggestions above and see if I can figure this out !

Thanks to all for comments and suggestions.