6mm BR no turn reamer suggestions

[handlebar]

howdy everyone. I need a no turn reamer suggestion for 6mm BR. I got a bonus from my job and am converting it into toys ASAP
I am having a few rifles built and in the interest of keeping my brass interchangeable
And tuning easy I am considering buying my own reamer for all the chambers. One rifle will be a PRS type repeater, one will be a heavy build for fun/paper punching. and I might make a lightweight hunting repeater build also. I’ve heard that a .2705 neck reamer might work with the new Lapua Brass, but I also have heard people suggesting .272 for a no turn. Barrels will be 1:8.5 and 1:8 most likely. I would like to run some fancy lighter flat based bullets for in close and also be able to run some boat tail stuff for longer ranges. I will probably try out some lapua factory ammunition as well so a chamber that works well with that would be great.

 

[tn6br]

From the measurements ive taken on my blue box lapua you want atleast a 271 neck i would go 272. I run .098 freebore which allows me to shoot 105 vlds with the bearing surface/ boat tail junction just above the donut zone in the neck of the case while still allowing me to reach the lands with a 68 gr flat base bullet with a reasonable amount of bullet in the neck. Make sure your reamer is spec’d for lapua brass (some old reamer designs arent) or it will be too tight at the case head resulting in bolt click.

The black line in the first pic is where bearing surface stops and boat tail begins.

 

[handlebar]

Thanks, that is very helpful. I understand that the newer blue box lapua is a bit smaller than the older stuff, If a .272 won’t be too sloppy for the new stuff, that might be perfect. Anyone have suggestions for a specific reamer for newer blue box lapua ?

 

[hogpatrol]

I'm using a .270 neck with the new blue box brass, no issues.

 

[geraldgee]

I am also shooting a .2704 neck but I am turning the new Lapua blue box to .012 per side.

When I shoot Lapua factory ammo, I find that a bullet will not drop into the spent case. I prefer that they would. After I turn the brass, they do. I send my brass off for annealing after a couple firings.

Good luck with your new build.

EDIT - I ordered a reamer from JGS with .080 FB. I found that the rifle really likes the Berger 87gr VLD at .015 into the lands.

 

[tn6br]

My blue box brass loaded round with a flat base bullet measures around .2688 at pressure ring, i want atleast 2 thou clearance and really prefer 3. Too much clearance may work your brass a little more but not enough clearance can cause lots of problems that can drive you nuts.

 

[NorCalMikie]

Go .272 for the neck and that way you can use any brass.
As far as freebore, start off with the lightest bullet you can find and be ready cause the throat will get longer real fast. Faster than you might think. Think zero or maybe .020 freebore. You can always go longer but you can't go shorter without a chamber cut.
And no matter what bullet you deal with, most will be going in the same hole so enjoy the hell out of it.

 

[handlebar]

Thanks everyone. In your opinions, who makes the best 6mm BR reamers?
I wish there was a chart or something of match results with an equipment list that included reamers.

 

[KenOath]

JGS and PTG are two that are regularly used by BR and F Class shooters.

Cheers Rushty

 

[boltfluter]

Thanks everyone. In your opinions, who makes the best 6mm BR reamers?
I wish there was a chart or something of match results with an equipment list that included reamers.

JGS or Manson for the win. Especially if you want a reamer that matches your requested specs.

Paul

www.proprecisionrifles.com

 

[Deleted old_dood]

From the measurements ive taken on my blue box lapua you want atleast a 271 neck i would go 272. I run .098 freebore which allows me to shoot 105 vlds with the bearing surface/ boat tail junction just above the donut zone in the neck of the case while still allowing me to reach the lands with a 68 gr flat base bullet with a reasonable amount of bullet in the neck. Make sure your reamer is spec’d for lapua brass (some old reamer designs arent) or it will be too tight at the case head resulting in bolt click.

View attachment 1024542 View attachment 1024543 The black line in the first pic is where bearing surface stops and boat tail begins.

sent you a pm about this post.

 

[handlebar]

sent you a pm about this post.

Thanks I’ll look

 

[lloydx2]

I would strongly suggest getting your brass Then spec your reamer from that.
I have blue box Lapua that has gone .269 when loaded. I would also recommend
Manson or JGS for your reamer.
Regards Lloyd

 

[handlebar]

Thanks everybody.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I agree with everything tn6br has said. If you want to shoot that wide a range of bullet weights(lengths), the .098 freebore is tough to beat.
As for neck diameter, again I agree with him. The blue box isn't actually what marked the change in neck brass thickness but it did coincide closely with when the change was made to the brass. For many years prior to Lapua making this change, the preferred reamer was a .272 neck. What happens if there is another said change? Point being, the .272 has and still does work either way and the difference won't show up on paper, IME. It might show up in terms of brass life, eventually, but I'm still skeptical of that. There are other variables that can make more difference than .001" of chamber neck clearance and the resultant working of the brass. Neck tension and annealing, to mention a couple that will make more difference.

Even if you don't ever anneal, that .0005" per side is very minuscule in this regard, especially if you are running several thou neck tension. We sometimes need to keep things in proper perspective here. A human hair averages about .004" and we're worrying about working our brass a .001".

If it made a difference on paper, I'd be right with those folks, but IME, it does not. If you anneal one time over the course the life of the brass, you've more than made up the difference, if there even is one.

I'd be much more concerned with the body dimensions. A little there makes a big difference. Again, I'd err on the side of larger rather than too small. FWIW, most custom dies are made approximately .003" smaller in the body area than the chamber reamer. So, moving the brass that much for the rest of the case seems to be something people pay extra to have. The difference is the hardness and thickness of the brass at those areas result in more spring back than the neck area. So, a common resultant case that is run into a custom die .003" smaller than the chamber reamer is for the case to be sized down about .0015" at the shoulder and .0005"-.0006" at the base, after sizing and spring back.

FWIW.--Mike

 

[handlebar]

Thanks everybody,

 

[handlebar]

I’m excited! my first barrel blank arrived. It’s a 1 in 8.5 twist 4 groove kreiger 28” which should be perfect. I have a rock blank on order for future fun and a bartlien 5r 8 twist will be next.

 

[JimPag]

Thanks everyone. In your opinions, who makes the best 6mm BR reamers?
I wish there was a chart or something of match results with an equipment list that included reamers.

IMO Hugh Henriksen makes the best reamers that money can buy, but you have too long a wait when ordering one from him. If you can wait, that's who I would get one from.

 

[shanerbanner10]

.274 Neck, .120 freebore, 1.5 degree lead angle for my BR reamer. This is specifically "designed" to shoot 110 SMK's loaded a little long for PRS type competitions.

 

[Stan Taylor]

From the measurements ive taken on my blue box lapua you want atleast a 271 neck i would go 272. I run .098 freebore which allows me to shoot 105 vlds with the bearing surface/ boat tail junction just above the donut zone in the neck of the case while still allowing me to reach the lands with a 68 gr flat base bullet with a reasonable amount of bullet in the neck. Make sure your reamer is spec’d for lapua brass (some old reamer designs arent) or it will be too tight at the case head resulting in bolt click.

View attachment 1024542 View attachment 1024543 The black line in the first pic is where bearing surface stops and boat tail begins.

I have a dumb question that piece of brass on the left don't look like the neck is long enough for a 6mmbr pics are deceiving sometimes.