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Fire forming Ackley cases.....

Disregard this post if you are not interested in Ackley calibers. I also realize that this is probably old info and many have heard/know this already. Just for clarity I figured I might do this thread. I had previously posted on another forum in response to a guy asking for general information about an Ackley cartridge. One of the things I said was about the cost in both time and money regarding the need to fire form the brass if you want to get the full potential out of your ammo. I stated that the 280AI was nice because you could buy Nosler brass already formed. Then I said I would like to have hydraulic forming dies so I didn't have to use so many components and time getting the 280 Rem. brass formed and ready for accuracy work up and then a hunt.
Two different guys responded saying there was no need to do all that. They went on to tell me about the light load and cream of wheat {COW} method. Very shortly after that the entire thread ballooned into 8 pages of guys arguing which caliber is the best in the world...one comment I made was that it was hard to believe such a light charge would properly form out an Ackley case. The guy assured me that it would and that if the cases didn't come out razor sharp and completely finished then there was clearly something wrong with my chamber.
Information was spotty and I got all kinds of different varying info. This was what prompted me to try and get this figured out. The story is to prime and charge the standard resized ready to go case with 15 grains of Unique powder. Then fill it to the junction of the case neck and shoulder with COW and top it off with a small stopper of cotton or other inert such wadding material just to hold the COW in the case. Fire the blank and presto...perfectly formed razor sharp finished case to resize one more time and load.
I have formed many Ackley cases the regular "load and fire" way and never, even when fully annealed do they come out razor sharp on the first try. Everything worked as planned and just as it should. All but the "razor sharp" part. As you can see in the photos below, the case in the middle is the COW formed case and it is not near as sharp as the twice conventional fired case on the right.


This is not something you want to try and do in your basement as the COW and cotton blows out everywhere. It is also not something you can do without hearing protection. No big deal to clean the rifle afterwards, but you have to be mindful of barrel heat because it still gets hot if you have several to form. I think I did about 20 before my barrel got hot. You can probably do more though, I have a mountain rifle.
At first I dismissed this method and intended to make the hydraulic forming dies to do it that way, but now after seeing how easy it is and not having to mess with hydraulic fluid, cleaning the cases, etc. I think this is a good viable option if you want formed Ackley cases to load and shoot. Hope this helps somebody some time.
 
I will soon be FF'ing for a 6.5 x55 BJAI. I have only fireformed for converted cases and have used conventional lighter loadings with surplus bullets. I have a take-off 6.5mm barrel that I plan on having set back and chambered with the same reamer the 'smith is using for the match barrel for fireforming only. Disregarding the cost of powder/bullets and considering I have a burner barrel, in you opinion is there any gain by forming with the COW method versus getting a more fully formed case with the 'load and shoot' method?
 
Thanks for your post, this is an excellent question and really the one that prompted me to look at alternate methods of fire forming. First and foremost, I have to say again that I never was able to get a fully sharp, finished, formed case by fire forming with bullets and full power loads on the first try. One of the things I noted first about the COW method is that I do in fact get a case that is just as formed as it would be using bullets. It always has taken me at least two firings to get the final formed cases. I have 5 Ackley Improved rifles of various calibers, barreled and chambered many more and you would be hard pressed to find someone that has put more rounds down the pipe of an Ackley Improved rifle.
The other thing is the cost in both dollars and time. Many argue that the Ackley system shoots just as accurate and good as the parent cartridge and this is usually true, but you do not get the full potential out of unformed parent brass...if I wanted to shoot a 280 Remington I would have never converted the rifle to Improved. I want to be clear in that I do not believe, based on my experience trying it out, that the COW method is any better forming wise. However, it is at least physically as good because I get the same results.
The cost savings and time thing are are the gain and a nice bonus. For what the gunsmith is going to charge you to chamber up a "forming" rifle you could fire form thousands of cases just a good as with bullets and full power loads.
The bottom line is that with COW you can cheaply and easily fire form your brass to the point that you can go ahead and load it to the full potential Improved load data, you do not need to have a spare rifle with which to form or special dies and messy oil and it is way cheaper and easier to load.
 
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There are several "COW" methods that have been used over the years. What many folks miss in the equation is what is happening in the firearm.

You are talking 280AI so I will stay with that subject. A standard 280 brass should headspace correctly in an AI chamber.....should.... A chamber that has been reamed from standard 280 to Ackley Improved, without setting the barrel back, has minimal chance of headspacing correctly and in several chambers I have seen were actually soooo long that the case was pushed forward and failed to fire. You have to size the brass to headspace in your firearm. If the brass does not fit your chamber properly, it will not form properly.

Another thing some folks did was drop in a powder charge, drop in a glob of COW and then add the wad of tissue. What they didn't realize, was the powder and COW was often loose enough so that it would mix, thus slowing down ignition and pressure. They also did not realize that tissue does not stay tight and loose tissue lets the COW out of the case and into your action and barrel...

I have several wildcats that I was able to successfully form brass with the COW method. I did use Unique...I wont say how much...I put a wad of tissue in the case after the Unique and lightly tamped the tissue in place before adding the COW. After COW came more tissue, again, lightly tamping it in place. On some light cases, I was ready to shoot. On heavier brass, I even added a parafin wax plug (in the neck only) to keep everything tight.

The COW...or corn meal for old guys like me...is there to create excessive pressure from a small amount of powder. The 15 grains of Unique referenced above may produce XX,XXX PSI in a 280 brass. Add COW and tissue and you may get XX,XXX plus a couple thousand more PSI....Tamp that COW in place and add a little more tissue and the pressures go up. Add the wax bullet aka neck wad aka parafin seal and the pressures will go up more. If you do not "reload" your fireform loads just as meticulously as you load your match loads, you will not get evenly formed brass which is what the ideal outcome should be.

My COW loads were just as loud as a normal load. They sprayed a lot of junk and made a mess. My option was to take them to the local club or find a way to form them at home. A handy dandy 5 gallon bucket, a small length of rubber hose and a wad of home insulation worked for me. I cut a small hole in the middle of the bottom of the bucket and put a rubber hose in the hole to protect my barrel as I put it in. The Insulation was formed around the inside of the bucket, with a "barrel channel" that allowed the blast to go thru. I dug a post hole in the back yard, put the bucket over the hole, and stuck my gun barrel in the hole. A couple of tent stakes can hold the bucket in place, but it will still lift from the concussion so add a little lead weight on top if you have it. I was able to shoot my loads thru the baffled bucket and into the post hole. The wife and neighbors heard a dull Whump and in 10 minutes I had 20 formed brass. This was a limit I imposed on myself as that was amount of noise I could make without someone coming to check on me, and it was also about right for cleaning the barrel and shaking the COW out of the bucket and resetting the insulation.

That was then. Now I am older. I have more money. I have ways to gain more enjoyment forming my brass. I size the case to fit my action and then find a fireforming load that is accurate and fun to shoot. My 280 is not AI, but I do form the brass from -06 brass. I size the brass to fit my chamber, work up a moderate load with light bullet and then go after varmints, targets, and just plain trigger time. The brass forms on first firing and I am good to go. My -06 is a true AI chamber in a Mauser action. I have several boxes (100ea) of moderate loads for varmints or general shooting. My formed brass gets loaded with the 165s and that is what I have used for deer and long range chuck shooting.

COW is a low cost, messy, yet viable way to form wildcat brass. There are better ways, that are more enjoyable in my experience, but they do cost more money. You have to choose which way you want to go. No matter which way you choose, you have to WORK UP a load that forms your brass correctly.

Good luck,

Steve :)
 
Been watching this for a while.
Yes, it's true, the COW method of fireforming does NOT get you a fully sharp formed case, but, it does get you a shoulder to headspace off. The other benefit is increased barrel life, as firing rounds with bullets is eroding the throat just as normal firing does. Firing with COW reduces throat erosion, the flame temp may be the same, but, it's duration is much much shorter. I have noticed that I get quite a large muzzle flash, and my 375 Weatherby has a huge muzzle flash when fireforming, very noticeable in the daytime.
I use Clays, then toilet tissue, COW to the bottom of the neck and a candle wax plug to hold it all in place. My last lot of 375 Weatherby cases failed to expand from a 1/3 down from the neck, somehow, I got the powder weight wrong, it was light.
My 22-250AI, 257AI and 338/416 Rigby Improved all come out fairly close to fully formed, just the radius' of the shoulder are not sharp. The 375 normally looks like a fully formed case, except when the powder charge is light. I'm re-doing those ASAP, need the brass for deer hunting.

Cheers.
:)
 
One thing that was not mentioned was to work up a fire forming load... 15gr might not be it.. i worked up a load with unique and final brass came out pretty dang well..

If i was to push the project further i would just get a fire form barrel... thats the best way to go hands down.
 
More power to you guys who take the extra time to build COW loads for forming. I'd rather use my FF loads to work on shooting fundamentals, killing varmints, etc. Respectfully, I'll keep my cornmeal for dredgin' the catfish after it comes outta the buttermilk!

Regarding "fireforming", in general...

Aren't we all essentially "fireforming" ALL virgin brass to our rifle's chamber, upon the initial firing?

Doesn't virgin brass "grow" fit a 'non-Improved' chamber, too???

Sure, the forming process is more pronounced when building/blowing out 'Improved' brass. Just sayin', the same 'forming' process is happening when firing ANY virgin brass, in ANY chamber...

With regard to achieving case longevity, isn't it common practice to load virgin brass gingerly, then step up & complete load development with 1x fired brass?

Isn't that essentially the same thing, as "fireforming" for an 'Improved' chamber, then developing a 'finished' load with 1x fired brass that's been 'form-fitted' to our rifle's chamber?

Subsequent powder charges in 1x fired (fully formed) brass will likely be higher than initial charge with virgin brass, no matter the chamber specifics. Considering that, I see little/no difference when firing virgin brass in ANY chambering. Stepping up charge a couple tenths, or a couple grains...same amount of effort on my part!

Barrels are consumables. I'd figure if one shoots with enough volume, one could simply fireform a few barrel's worth of brass on a single barrel? Once you see barrel #1 is nearing its end, grab a couple hundred new brass & get 'em formed & ready for fresh barrel #2!

Point is, 1x fired brass is what I use to dial in on a finished load. For both standard AND 'Improved' cartridges. Whether the shoulder blows out a teeny bit to fit a standard chamber, or grows to fill the void an 'Improved' chamber has, is inconsequential...

Just offering a view from a different perspective, for conversation!
 
I'm with Fredo on this. 280AI, 308, 6 Dasher... I don't treat them any differently other than using a little more care when setting headspace on the "fireforming" calibers. For any of them the real load development and shooting doesn't start until you're past the 1x fired brass point.
 
Disregard this post if you are not interested in Ackley calibers. I also realize that this is probably old info and many have heard/know this already. Just for clarity I figured I might do this thread. I had previously posted on another forum in response to a guy asking for general information about an Ackley cartridge. One of the things I said was about the cost in both time and money regarding the need to fire form the brass if you want to get the full potential out of your ammo...

I recently built a 260AI ( http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/my-new-260-ai-build.3909184/ ) and first used bullets to fireform and then switched to the COW method. I used Titewad as a powder to fireform 500 Lapua Palma cases. I used a tool to really compress the powder, COW and toilet paper. My results were the same as yours, rounded shoulders, etc... However, that did not pose a problem with precision as it helped me score the first two clean scores at 600 yards I have ever scored. So don't worry about it and have fun.

Capture.JPG

TSRA - Clean.JPG

Joe
 
I have a 22-250ai., 250 ai., 6.5x06ai., 6.5x55bjai., 375ai which is about the same as 375 Weatherby and I fireform my 22-250 by fireforming it with loads in the rifle and shooting it. With all my others I use Unique as I have a lot of it left over from reloading shot shells. I find with unique that I start with about 15% of case capacity and work up till I get the cases fireformed with pretty good sharp shoulders with COW and tissue wad and tamp with small rod.I live out in the country and i use ear plugs and run a cleaning rod thru it every 20 or 30 rounds and it has always worked good for me. I choose not to shoot the larger calibers thru my barrel and don't want to suffer the recoil in my larger calibers I don't understand why with the dashers and such why all the new cartridges are not with the sharper shoulders! RW
 
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I've never gotten sharp shoulders with the COW method but I did get them on the second firing. With regular fire forming I never got crisp shoulders till the second firing either.

The key thing about the COW method for me is less barrel life eaten up with brass forming, most of my rifles just get 50 cases so that's 50 less rounds, worth it for me. The guys that like to get 300 pieces of brass (for some unbeknownst reason) then that's 300 less rounds of barrel life burnt.

And if you're wondering about the COW loads still causing the same amount of barrel damage, go to a local skeet or trap range, find someone who's got 100k rounds through a shotgun and ask them if the barrel is shot out.
 
I'll try to find the file JGS sent me. It does not seem to be on this computer. Perhaps 'JRS' will come to the rescue??? Rich...ya got ya ears on?
 
A few latent thoughts, if it is of any value to you:

Having fire formed plenty of AI brass, the one thing I don't do these days is use paraffin wax as a top plug with the COW method - I found that I was getting build up of partially cooked COW and paraffin in the lug races inside the receiver ring that was damn hard to see to remove - and the more the rifle was shot afterwards the more it 'cooked' - thought I had cleaned one very well having only ever forming about 50 rounds over the life time of the rifle - when we removed the barrel, there was all kind of build up inside the receiver ring.

My rule of thumb method I use now works for me for everything from 250 Sav AI up to the 06 varieties: fill the case with UNIQUE powder - whatever number that is, take 1/3 of that amount plus 1 grain for short action cases - for the long action cases, take 1/3 of the case capacity + 2 grains - top that with a small plug of toilet paper - then wait a couple of minutes for the toilet paper plug to expand down in the case (this prevents the COW from settling down into the powder charge) - then fill the case to the bottom of the neck with COW and top that with another plug of toilet paper. this has served me well with the least amount of residue remaining when done. If you have a current "recipe" utilizing paraffin and want to convert to toilet paper plugs instead, be advised that it WILL take more powder to achieve the same results with the toilet paper plugs as you did with paraffin because the paraffin does build up significant more chamber pressure that the toilet paper plug.
 

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