Cleaning inside of necks?

[q2hunter]

Is this necessary? Does it help accuracy/help make neck tension more consistent? If so what do you clean with and how?

 

[ShootDots]

I have "well used" "carboned-up" fairly tight fitting neck brushes to clean, if you will, the inside of the necks. Carbon is a GREAT lube and brushing a light coat of carbon aides in smoother seating. My neck brushes have been used for quite some time and will apply a small amount of carbon inside the necks. The more "carboned-up" the better. Otherwise you will need to apply Imperial Dry Neck Lube to the inside. I do that with virgin brass.

 

[q2hunter]

I have "well used" "carboned-up" fairly tight fitting neck brushes to clean, if you will, the inside of the necks. Carbon is a GREAT lube and brushing a light coat of carbon aides in smoother seating. My neck brushes have been used for quite some time and will apply a small amount of carbon inside the necks. The more "carboned-up" the better. Otherwise you will need to apply Imperial Dry Neck Lube to the inside. I do that with virgin brass.

So for fired brass, you do not use anything? You just brush them out? I do that, but was just thinking out loud. I didn't realize the carbon helped....assuming you mean the carbon that is already there and you are just using the same brush to "smooth the neck down" per say?

 

[ShootDots]

So for fired brass, you do not use anything? You just brush them out? I do that, but was just thinking out loud. I didn't realize the carbon helped....assuming you mean the carbon that is already there and you are just using the same brush to "smooth the neck down" per say?

After tumbling the brass and prepping it, the last thing I do is brush the necks out. After several hundred pieces of brass being brushed out, those brushes are dark with carbon. I brush out the necks with about 10-15 good passes using a drill with the brushes. It makes quick work of the brass that needs to be done.

 

[dcali]

I've shot brass without touching it (black on the inside), and after ultrasonic cleaning (no carbon left). I can't tell the difference. Milage may vary.

 

[chkunz]

I've shot brass without touching it (black on the inside), and after ultrasonic cleaning (no carbon left). I can't tell the difference. Milage may vary.

There have been some recent (the last few years) claims that carbon inside the necks is beneficial to accuracy having to do with consistent bullet seating force.. There are a lot of posts on this forum that make that claim. But I have not seen anyone present data that supports that claim. Maybe they did and I missed it. I tumble cases wet with a 1 in 7 mixture of water and simple green and that takes out most of the carbon inside the case.

 

[q2hunter]

After tumbling the brass and prepping it, the last thing I do is brush the necks out. After several hundred pieces of brass being brushed out, those brushes are dark with carbon. I brush out the necks with about 10-15 good passes using a drill with the brushes. It makes quick work of the brass that needs to be done.

I hate to sound green...but if the shoe fits wear it right? I clean brass with a rag, brush necks, de-prime and size (same step with fl dies), and then tumble. I do not tumble every firing, every 3rd. Are these steps in this order a bad thing?

 

[RDavies]

I have "well used" "carboned-up" fairly tight fitting neck brushes to clean, if you will, the inside of the necks. Carbon is a GREAT lube and brushing a light coat of carbon aides in smoother seating. My neck brushes have been used for quite some time and will apply a small amount of carbon inside the necks. The more "carboned-up" the better. Otherwise you will need to apply Imperial Dry Neck Lube to the inside. I do that with virgin brass.

Yes, exactly my thoughts and findings.

 

[ShootDots]

I hate to sound green...but if the shoe fits wear it right? I clean brass with a rag, brush necks, de-prime and size (same step with fl dies), and then tumble. I do not tumble every firing, every 3rd. Are these steps in this order a bad thing?

"Clean" brass LOOKS pretty but has no effect on accuracy. My "load development" brass is NEVER cleaned, as far as the outside of the case is concerned. The inside of the necks still get the "carboned-up" brush treatment but they look all burnished from annealing. They shoot, with proper loads, just as well as my "competition brass".. Now I anneal almost every time after firing (some cartridges I anneal every time) and the burnishing on the brass causes the brass to look tarnished. For competition I do use "looking like new" brass, so I tumble them after annealing. To me (and I know this will sound weird) looking good at a competition is better than brass looking like it was fished out of a garbage can at "the range".. Admittedly it does not matter>>but don't you like to drive around in a nicely waxed car as opposed to one fresh out of the "muddy rain"? Somehow it seems to run better even though you KNOW it don't! LOL!!!

 

[LHSmith]

There have been some recent (the last few years) claims that carbon inside the necks is beneficial to accuracy having to do with consistent bullet seating force.. There are a lot of posts on this forum that make that claim. But I have not seen anyone present data that supports that claim. Maybe they did and I missed it. I tumble cases wet with a 1 in 7 mixture of water and simple green and that takes out most of the carbon inside the case.

One would think readers would test these claims by themselves. This test is stupid easy to perform. IME ShootDots nailed it.

 

[Joe Salt]

I have always brushed out most of the carbon and reapplied dry neck lube. Seating is much more consistent.

Joe Salt

 

[500Stroker]

After tumbling the brass and prepping it, the last thing I do is brush the necks out. After several hundred pieces of brass being brushed out, those brushes are dark with carbon. I brush out the necks with about 10-15 good passes using a drill with the brushes. It makes quick work of the brass that needs to be done.

Who is the manufacture of the neck brushes that you use ?
Thanks in advance

 

[ShootDots]

Who is the manufacture of the neck brushes that you use ?
Thanks in advance

I use both Sinclair (preferably) and RCBS...

 

[q2hunter]

"Clean" brass LOOKS pretty but has no effect on accuracy. My "load development" brass is NEVER cleaned, as far as the outside of the case is concerned. The inside of the necks still get the "carboned-up" brush treatment but they look all burnished from annealing. They shoot, with proper loads, just as well as my "competition brass".. Now I anneal almost every time after firing (some cartridges I anneal every time) and the burnishing on the brass causes the brass to look tarnished. For competition I do use "looking like new" brass, so I tumble them after annealing. To me (and I know this will sound weird) looking good at a competition is better than brass looking like it was fished out of a garbage can at "the range".. Admittedly it does not matter>>but don't you like to drive around in a nicely waxed car as opposed to one fresh out of the "muddy rain"? Somehow it seems to run better even though you KNOW it don't! LOL!!!

I guess what Im asking is if there is a proven method of steps to take? Wipe down, brush necks, size, tumble. Or should tumble be first, brush necks, resize....etc? Or does it matter as long as you are consistent? Here is my steps.
1) Wipe case ( when on the bench I usually do it there, kills a little time to let barrel cool when shooting a group)
2) brush necks
3) Lubricate and de-cap/FL size
4) Trim and chamfer if necessary
5) Tumble (if I am going to that firing, I like to have nice looking brass in my box at the range also)
6) if tumbled, I wipe down again and check primer pocket/flash hole for media
7) Re-prime
8) Powder
9) Seat

 

[ShootDots]

I guess what Im asking is if there is a proven method of steps to take? Wipe down, brush necks, size, tumble. Or should tumble be first, brush necks, resize....etc? Or does it matter as long as you are consistent? Here is my steps.
1) Wipe case ( when on the bench I usually do it there, kills a little time to let barrel cool when shooting a group)
2) brush necks
3) Lubricate and de-cap/FL size
4) Trim and chamfer if necessary
5) Tumble (if I am going to that firing, I like to have nice looking brass in my box at the range also)
6) if tumbled, I wipe down again and check primer pocket/flash hole for media
7) Re-prime
8) Powder
9) Seat

The only difference is, is I would do #5 before #3. That way you eliminate #6... Other than that, you are good to go IF you do not anneal..

 

[zipollini]

After chamfering wrap some 0000 steel wool around a bronze brush and spin it inside your case neck. it will make it super smooth and you won't need any lube for bullet seating.

 

[Phil]

Ben,

Do you use moly on your bullets???

Phil.

 

[Brians356]

Is this necessary?

No.

 

[ShootDots]

Ben,

Do you use moly on your bullets???

Phil.

No Sir, I do not...

 

[Brians356]

"Clean" brass LOOKS pretty but has no effect on accuracy.

You're raining on a parade. Case cleaning (to jewelry-like sparkle) is one of the fastest-growing hobbies. Many chaps do it after every firing, and spend more time cleaning cases than loading them.
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