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jewel trigger HELP!

I was installing my new jewel trigger today and I'm having problems. I tried contacting them but it was to late in the evening. I will try again tomorrow. But I was Wondering if anyone had this issue and how to fix it before I send it back to jewel.
I have a Remington 700 left hand bolt sps and I just got it back from the gun smith today. I removed the factory trigger and installed the jewel. As I performed a function test I noticed the safety hits the action and will not engage, also the bolt release takes excessive force to release the bolt. From what I can tell it seems as if the trigger sits a little high into the action. The bolt works just fine and the trigger releases perfect.
Any ideas? I have delt with jewel before and there stand up guys from what I have experienced in the past..maybe I just got a bad one ..or maybe its my action..not sure
 
The exterior dimensions of the two triggers are different in that the Jewell is wider where the safety mechanism is located. Compare the two triggers side-by-side and you will see the difference. Operate the Jewell safety and you will see that the mechanism requires more space to function than does the factory trigger. The Jewell will not function in your rifle because the safety is binding in the stock. The trigger recess in the stock must be opened up to accommodate the wider Jewell trigger. A Dremel tool with a high speed cutter will do the job nicely.
 
I'm thinking of getting the fordom tool out and slightly grinding the action away so the safety leaver clears..it isn't much material to remove..and it will all be hidden once its back in the stock..maybe it has something to do with changing to a jewel trigger and the specs on the Remington pathetic x- mark pro trigger..the original Remington triggers use to be nice and adjustable..
 
bobcat93: I've had the same problem with the HVR Jewells with the safety & bolt release, never with the Bnechrest triggers that do not have the "extra" levers.

As suggested, it's very easy to remove a tiny bit of stock material from the cutout to get the necessary clearance. I would not remove material from the Jewell trigger.
 
fdshuster said:
bobcat93: I've had the same problem with the HVR Jewells with the safety & bolt release, never with the Bnechrest triggers that do not have the "extra" levers.

As suggested, it's very easy to remove a tiny bit of stock material from the cutout to get the necessary clearance. I would not remove material from the Jewell trigger.

The barreled action is out of the stock.
 
I wish it was the stock..no problem cutting that " the first bend on the safety lever is hitting the bottom of the action the second bend is fine..it allows the safety arm to clear the side of the action..I need some tips guys..
 
Update: jewel told me to get some pliers and bend it till it fits..I still think I might need to grind a little material off the action due to the bend already being so close to the fastener on the trigger..any one fore see problems with this?
 
I've always been able to bend them until they fit. You also may need to bend the bolt release to get it into the notch at the end of the BR lever. I still find the jewel BR stiff. --Jerry
 
Slightly off-topic, but Timney has a new trigger for the 700 that is supposed to give Jewell a run for his money. It's called the Calvin Elite, and it is adjustable from 2.5 lbs down to 8 oz. I put one in my silhouette rifle and it is quite nice. Only fired one match with it so far, but it is as good or better than the Jewell in my 40-X 6.5-284 any-any gun.
The trigger body is .100 wider than stock Rem trigger so the well may have to be opened up. The shoe is thin so do not have to machine the trigger guard. It also has a safety.
So far I am liking it.
 
Would post pics but haven't figured out how yet..I know, I know a pic is worth a 1000 words..I will take some pics and post just in case some other poor soul like my self runs into this problem.. I'm glad I talk to jewel ..I didn't want to change or modify the trigger in anyway in case I had to send it back..I did install it and racked the dolt just to see how it felt..I had jewel set it at 4 oz. And it is amazing.. I have some stock fitting to do now that I have this heavy target barrel and a bedding job..hope fully I will accomplish it this weekend . Im going to send it out to have it milled for my PTG stealth bottom metal..I just hope the redding reloading dies I ordered in January come in before my first trip to the range ..well I'm off to take some pics and bend up my new jewel trigger..
 
Is a 223 rem. Improved. I found buying a stock Remington 700 with a left hand bolt was faster and cheaper then it would have been for me to order just the action from Brownells. I bought a rem 700 sps. Then ordered a barrel blank from hart and one from shilen..the shillen showed up first so that is the one that got sent to the gunsmith. By the way I used a smith I found under gunsmiths on our website. ( Bob green rifles in PA.) It has been a long project and I'm almost done.
Here is all the parts I have
Action - Remington 700 left hand bolt
I also sent the bolt out for fluting and had a fluted bolt knob installed..
Shilen 26" heavy target barrel chambered in 223rem. Improved .245" neck
Bobby hart LRT stock from stocky stocks
Jewel 4oz. Trigger
Stealth bottom metal and AI 10 rd. Mags
Left hand RPI scope base - badger ordnance scope rings
Nightforce BR 8-32 × 56 np-DD scope
And a picatiny 4" accessory rail for bipod mount
Center shot bipod I purchased from forum member
QR bipod mount from center shot/ GG&G
Manhattan red duracoat and all the tool to apply it
 
Probably dont need to mention but, if removing 'material' go slow. Take a little off and retry, repeat as needed. May take 4 or 5 trys to get it right along with a little bending it sounds like.
 
If you cant get it right call bob green and ask how long to fit it.It might be a quick job he could knock out in days rather than months of waiting.
 
I have the same problem on my LH Rem short action. I had a rifle basix that was doing pretty good, but had to upgrade. :(
 
Well I never got the pics, it was pretty remedial but I hate to take pliers to such a nice trigger. Yet I would rather band the safety then grind on my remington action. So..its all fixed everything works great. When in the stock..I'm happy..mailed my stock off to Chad D. Last week for some inletting for my bottom metal and I have my fire form loads ready to go..just need my stock back and then to the range
 
What was happening is the bends on the safety bar would hit the bottom of the action and not engage properly.
..I could not remove the safety bar from the trigger so I had to bend it in place. Let see if I can explain this properly .while looking at the trigger the safety bar above the mounting plate is kind of an( L) shape and has two bends, the first one right above the mounting plate. the second one goes up to what I call the thumb engagement lever. it was the first bend on the mounting plate that was the problem ( the so called bottom leg of the (L ) shape. it would cause the safety to drag on the bottom of the action. I pretty much had to straighten it out and re bend it. taking note of the distance between the thumb lever and the trigger itself. This was a good reference point to keep in mind when working on the second bend.
It was difficult to lower the first bend so the safety would clear the bottom of the action, due to the bend needing to be right above the retaining pin. After adjusting that bend, the dimension I spoke of earlier helped set the second bend the area between the trigger and the thumb engagement bar dictated the location of the second bend...I'm not a great writer by any means..so please don't judge my description of this process to harshly
Im having major trouble trying to reduce the photo size to allow forum posting..
 

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