Discussion in 'Main Message Board' started by grovey, Aug 3, 2019.
If you want the official paper
For nra targets
I quit that crap in favor of time to spend foing other things. Yime you figure in printer toner, I bet you are not ahead atall.
Ahead of what ? Is it a competition ? Custom targets for my needs,printed at home....win/win...for very little money.
The older you get, the more likely it is you'll die tomorrow.
You are bringing up money though... total up how much a given target would be--with toner---and then see how much it'd be to just buy it, and report back please.
I DO print some mini-Palma 1,000 yd targets on cardstock. Not saying I don't. But I don't print anything I can buy because I don't want to waste my time.
I use white poster board and buy it in 100 packs. Then use stick on target dots on it. It's 22" x 28" and large enough for sighting in. Also works for shotgun patterns. The stick on target dots are cheap and available down to 1" diameter. When you are done shooting, fold the paper into quarters and save it for reference. A Jam-It target stand and poly backboard are nice to mount the paper on if you don't have any other place to hang it. Just sep on it to press into the ground and pull out when finished.
Construction paper mounted to housing blackboard
Coming from using manila colored folders, and wanting something better I had my mind set on white.... but I assume you're saying you get less eye fatigue with blue (and someone else said gray)? I noticed there are different brightnesses of white paper available , and wasn't sure how that could come into play, but maybe it's too much of a good thing. I don't shoot much past 300yds, and from my experience I felt like I could see better at 300 on white.
You mentioned clean bullet holes which is top priority along with price point. Do you use the vellum rather than smooth surface for cleaner bullet holes, or for better printing aspects? Perhaps the vellum surface is easier to look at as well?
I draw my targets rather than print them, so the printing part isn't a consideration for me. Mine are evenly spaced X's drawn on horizontal lines, and most times I highlight (center) the x with an orange bingo dauber. Seems I'm chronically doing development, and feel the X gives me and exact aiming point even if the group destroys the X, or my crosshairs cover it up at longer distances because I can still tell where the lines intersect. It also helps me maintain the same aiming point at 100 yds with 9-12x scopes.
Good point... I do recycle some of the old targets from time to time for a bit of practice at the longest distance, but they're 2 for a buck new from the club. Those targets leave clean bullet holes, but seem to get pretty weak with a few sprinkles of rain on them. They're also score shoot targets, so there isn't an exact aiming point on them. The main use will be for load development.
Use Card Stock and have a rubber stamp from Sinclairs..very cheap
I like tyvek. Get s partial roll for cheap st the lumber yard. Chop it to length while on the roll on miter saw then finish with a scissors to whatever size ya want. Paint whatever target you want with a shopmade stencil or template. Stands up to wind, rain, down rip when removing so I keep for my record. Bright white on the back with no writing.
Vellum Bristol will have a slightly textured, "dull" finish, and is usually available in multiple colors - white; off-white; beige; tan; grey; etc. - Neenaha (formerly, Wasau) Exact Vellum Bristol is a common brand. To test VB, just look through your next magazine, tear out the card(s), and shoot a few holes - cheap and easy. The return mailer(s) is probably 67# VB, but, possibly, 57#: 67# will mic 0.0095" to 0.010"; 57# = 0.007".
VB is relatively tough, long fiber, with less "sizing" (filler) than index, and much lighter (cheaper). VB was developed to withstand the rigors of bulk mailing/sorting machines: the U.S. Postal regulations specify a minimum thickness of 0.007" for bulk-mail material. The reason for the 57 vs 67# is simply weight savings = $$$ for the bulk mailer. Vellum Bristol has good ink holdout good resistance to tearing.
The pic is of some ten-shot groups fire-forming 30x47HBR brass, via railgun, using various unsorted "cull" bullets, ranging from 112, to 125 Gr.: the paper is (OLD) Ivory 67# Exact Vellum Bristol. The tear on the left bull was from hastily ripping the card off of the target frame backer - the staple was just out of the pic, @ about 11:00 O'clock to the bull.
These old targets were printed by yours truly, about 25 years ago - still have a pretty good stack of 'em, on various colors. The target was a clone of the targets used by various Montana clubs, for "turkey shoots", when I lived in Deer Lodge - way back in time - those were conducted, one shot (no sighters), closest to center won. The outer ring is about 3/8th "; the inner white, 1.00". Good shootin'! RG
Wow, I'm cheap...
I use Lyman 1" dots on cardboard, ( the Amazon gift that keeps on giving...), then switch to a 3×5 card with the recipe written on the left side and a Lyman dot on the right. The card then gets stored with the rifle so I have load, conditions, and results ready with the rifle.
Cheap, cheap, cheap. And it forces my fundamentals when shooting for record, I don't want to write the information over and over again.
I use the black solid rubber bungees. Where I work we have a trucker loading area and the place gets littered with broken pieces. I drill a 1/4" hole in the plate and use a bolt and flat washer with lock nut. Shrapnel has yet to cut threw. I don't know if I have ever hit the bungee. If I have it doesn't show any holes in it. They have worked the best for me.
My experience/take on paper choice is to be mindful of the fibre size. The shorter the better. This helps with the tearing.
Short is also an orientation term of which way the grain is running.........which can be coded by listing the length first. e.g. 17x11. Iirc that grain is running cross ways.
Now, wasn't that interesting? Oh yeahhh... :0)
I use Tyvek as well. Depending on what I'm doing, I either draw the targets with Sharpie or use the 3/4 inch dots from Staples.
Tyvek is impervious to rain (important in the Pacific Nothwest) and it is easy to use a 3 hole punch on and put in a binder.
I have used flattened out cereal boxes. 3/4" dots on the clean inside and the holes cut and show up well.
Prior to this brown paper grocery bags from Kroger.
Plain old white poster board. It can be had pre-cut, 8, 14" X 22" sheets in a package for a few bucks at Walmart or other craft stores. The shiny side shows colored bullet holes well. Attach it to a piece of installing foam board and nice crisp bullet holes will be produced.
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