Discussion in 'Main Message Board' started by fatelvis, Nov 30, 2019.
I did the very same thing.
It just got delivered, I spun the lid off, took a whiff and danced around the room in regret.
What really pissed me off is, later I discovered there is a warning label on the lid, in bold print no less, CAUTION!!!!
It's almost as bad as opening a can of whoop ass.
or huffing someone's last can of brakeclean......
I tried wipe out and it didn't do much if you ask me. I tried another new one that is similar and it didn't do anything for the so called method. I could of made a mistake but I followed the instructions and got really bad results. I use montana extreme 50 cal solvent and it takes the copper out and carbon time is iosso.
I thought he was going to open a can of whoop ass on me for using all his brake clean.
I like the Eliminator products, but do use WipeOut once in a while.
This is a darn interesting thread. Informative as well.
I would guess most of this is directed at match shooters more than the casual shooters or weekend plinkers and blasters.
None the less fouling is fouling.
I don’t own or have access to a bore scope.
Not sure that I want one. It seems that with one it may give me things to worry about that I don’t now? For sure though it is a useful tool and has its place.
As to bore cleaners. I have went through a lot of them as most here have looking for the best,quickest and easiest.
Well I have several of what I consider very aggressive cleaners that I seldom use, ammonia based. I use sparingly and as a last resort.
I became a wipeout fan quite a while ago. Won some at a match. Company is located with in easy driving distance from me.
I found from the start it was not the greatest on carbon.
Also if there is any petroleum base in the bore seems to not let it work well.
I make it a practice to clean any carbon remover or petroleum base stuff with alcohol or brake clean on a patch.
Then I let the foam do its thing. I use plenty. And more times than not let it set over night to 48 hours. In my experience if you want it to work the best and pretty quick, it probably isn’t for you.
I bought some of their orange smelling “accelerator” I didn’t see it do any better than what I was doing with my solvents that would flash off pretty quick.
Prairie dog hunting last spring, 20 and 22’s. A fair amount of shooting, but by no means sizzling hot barrel.
When one or two favorite rigs seemed to be throwing shots, they got the WO accelerator, then foamed. I let these set for at least an hour but less than two.
It did clean them some but not what I knew was enough.
Some more rounds, they started flyers again. Put back in cases and left till later. Other neglected rigs were put into use.
That night back in the room I WO all of them. Lol, glad I was the only one in the room or some one would have had to sleep on the floor as rifles covered the extra bed.
Next AM. The ones that had seen lite use the day before, cleaned up well and easy.
The favorites that saw a majority of the work with the “quick” clean came out as expected with a lot darker blue than the others.
One of these is a known fouler but tends to shoot well none the less. Cleaned all the WO off of everything. R placed brass jag with a nylon and ran some ammonia base cleaner through it. I new for a fact if there was a hint of copper it would show in short order. Came out very slight just as any of my short sessions at home.
This is a factory Savage barrel with an enormous unknown lost track of amount of rounds, it just won’t die,lol.
Ran a patch of ammonia cleaner through a Shilen select barrel, zero as expected after the WO.
May or may not be of any help in this thread. Just my findings and what I had time for, at the time.
Just curious of those that have used WO. Do you let it set over night, or a short time.
For the bit of coper I need to remove in my barrels sweets does a fantastic job in no time, for everything else I use CLR with a dab of iosso every 200 rounds.
Picked up the 96 oz of Berryman Chem Clean and a 300 pkg of XL nitrile gloves. Have yet to use it but "fixin' to get ready".
Is this the Berryman stuff?
Yes, it is. If you've read up on it a bit, you will want to check the product code.
You dont want the stuff that has a "C" at end. That is for California. Probably defanged a LOT.
I'm just another that agrees with using Hoppes first, and Butches after. Targets will tell you..
Seems that everyone has their preferred method of cleaning product and procedure. I may as well share mine. I've been using Patch Out w/Accelerator for a very long time, I'm thinking ten to fifteen years, on both match rifles and prairie dog rifles. I shoot coated bullets in everything. My practice is to shoot at least one yardage, maybe two depending on the rifle, and clean either between yardages or on the following morning. My practice is much the same at either time. I wet one Patch with Patch Out followed by a couple drops of Accelerator on the same patch, short stroke it through the barrel, remove patch, replace with a clean one and repeat with PO/Accelerator and short stroke it through. Depending on whether it's between yardages or on a Sunday morning, I'll wait 15 minutes or more. Then I run a couple of clean patches through and remove the dirty stuff and repeat the above practice. On barrels with a lot of miles I may repeat this a few times before the blue stops. On Prairie dog rifles I may have shot 3-400 rounds and the blue will take several apps to get out. I do have a bore scope and use it. I have never had a barrel that PO wouldn't get clean, although now and then it takes a while. I once bought a used Cooper Tac 20 that apparently had never been cleaned. It took ten apps of PO w/Acc before it stopped making blue. On the 5th or 6th it pulled spirals of copper. Since I use WS2 as a bullet coating, I don't try and get all the black steaks out as they will begin to lay down again with the first shot. I have no issues with PO W/Accelerator and have never seen a reason to use anything else. One does need to avoid getting it on a wood finish as it will remove most finishes and make streaks in the wood.
My Rock Creek after many hours of JB and patches. It has about 1500 rounds. It had never been cleaned properly and started to stop shooting well, because at the time I never had a borescope.
Rock Creek after my new cleaning method.
Bore Tech Eliminator wash with bronze brush. Very wet soak then wait. Then followed by wet soaked brushing maybe 30 strokes.
Then Flitz Bore Cleaner on a Tipton nylon brush short stroking back and forth maybe 30 strokes or more.
Flood with Super Slick and then bronze brush to remove Flitz using Super Slick flooding the bore and brushing. Repeat.
Flood with Super Slick and patch till clean.
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