Discussion in 'Reloading Forum (All Calibers)' started by Topwater, Jan 9, 2018.
One shot works pretty good on small cases. Crap on bigger stuff like bmg.
If I stick a case, I usually will loosen my decapping rod and bottom it out on the case rim. Then thread the decapper guide nut in a few threads, tighten the jam nut, put the die in my vice with the soft jaws, and slowly turn the guide nut in with a pair of channel locks. As I turn the guide nut in, the decapping rod drives the case out. It's not always a guarantee, but I have done this more than once without bending or damaging the rod. Works much better than beating with a hammer.
The RCBS stuck case remover tool set works pretty good too.
this was 32yrs ago when 1st started reloading had no clue about nothing, things have changed since lol, hell it prolly was not even one shot could have been some other spray but I do know it was spray because it was something new
I use mink oil in the paste form to do any major sizing, but Imperial for every day re-sizing. I'll hold a lighter under the tin on either product until it starts to melt.
That makes it a lot easier to put a very small amount on the brass.
I hope this helps,
If you are sticking cases with One Shot, then you probably either did a poor job of application, or, you did not let the cases sit for a minute or two, for the propellant to evaporate. I have done thousands with no problem.
It contaminates nothing inside, or outside of the neck. By using the method that I mentioned, none gets inside the case.
I’m with sbhooper on using One Shot. I’ve found that uniform, liberal application and time is all that is necessary for it to work very well.
I put all my brass lined up uniformly on a baking sheet, careful to hit all the cases equally. I leave enough open area on the sheet that after application of One Shot, I roll all the cases back and forth to facilitate an even spread of the wet One Shot...then I leave them be for a couple minutes. A specific shot into the lined up open necks after applying to the outside of the cases helps alot.
I’ve noticed that if I am not consistent in applying One Shot, I can feel the cases drag more...when this happens I apply a little Imperial to about every 4 or 5 cases to keep the die lubed. I’ll also use a little Imperial on the first few cases with One Shot to ensure the die is adequately lubed.
Following this method, I have not had a stuck case in over 12 years, and I’ve sized at least 10 cans worth of One Shot. This includes minor case forming (20Vartarg from Fireball). When forming other brass (6x47L, .243AI, any 30-06 neck-sized variant...I’ll use One Shot on the entire case and Imperial on the neck every 4 or 5 cases if I’m doing volume forming.
Your milage may vary, but I’ve found out long ago that most of the problems with most products I’ve had with over the years are issues with my technique...not necessarily an issue with the product...
I am still learning.
To get back and answer the OP, I’m sorry to say that I’ve not tried food grade silicon spray...but if I did I would follow my methodology above.
Well that statement can't be true, Step 5 in the directions on the can state: "After sizing, wipe each case and remove the remaining lubricant".
So, I just sprayed a case and let it set 2 minutes (did not wipe off because most users do not) and sprinkled H-380 over it and was attracted by the 1-shot residue. I call that contamination.
IMO the product is too indiscriminate in application. I like as much control in every step of my reload process as possible.
I also don't need to be breathing any more "harmful vapors" than absolutely necessary (says right on the can).
I tried using Hornady Case lube and it works fine for pistol cartridges, but i stuck a rifle cartridge in my FL Redding sizer so bad that i ruined the die trying to get it out. I sprayed heavily and waited for a couple of minutes as I had always done.
I then switched back to RCBS which I had never had a single issue with, except for the problem of removing it afterwards. I use a pad and find that some always finds its way into the neck, may it be ever so slightly. To remove I found Acetone to work well but always left a residue and I was concerned by how much of that residue may be in the case itself.
I recently purchased some of Redding biodegradable case lube from Sinclare. I must admit it lubes very well and come right off. I use hot water and some dish soap. Swish around a little and rinse. Case is squeaky clean.
Simple fix. Wipe off the casings. I always have, no matter what lube that I use. Why try so hard to make things complicated? As far as the vapors-good grief! Just do as I said and spray it into a zip loc with the casings. That is probably one of the least harmful things that you deal with on a daily basis.
I agree, it’s a “spray it outside” sort of product.
I will also add that i have been in the habit of spraying the cases while in the loading block and I intentionally try to get the inside neck area.
1) set the loading block in the sun and let the cases warm up
2) liberally spray the one-shot on the cases. You can see it flow all the way around the case....pretty cool really.
3) let it sit in the sun to dry, and maybe rotating it if time allows.
I have tested this against the tried and true imperial sizing die wax and cannot detect a difference at 600 yards.
I cannot imagine a loading bench without Imperial, I find it indispensable.
I wipe the exterior of the case with a rag and a little alcohol to clean the lube off, whichever lube is used. The chamber of my rifle is no place for any lube that will just attract “stuff”.
Regarding a stuck case in die.
PB Blaster penetrating oil....
I use the RCBS .223 small base dies, I’ve had two stuck in the last year or two.
I remove the expansion ball-stem while still on the press. I spray pb blaster into the top giving a good soaking.
Wait a minute or two and the case will fall out with a couple of lite taps of the punch and hammer.
Then clean the die and put it back together, then finish reloading.
I use imp. wax on two fingers rolling around on my fingers as I’m placing it into the shell holder. Reapply wax to fingers every 4th or 5th case.
Randomly picking the cases up, gets wax in different positions on each case which keeps the die lubricanted at all times.
I also touch the case mouth every so often to keep the expander ball lubed up.
"Royal Case & Die Lube" Great function, inexpensive, lasts for ever.I do a lot of case forming which is more punishing than any simple case sizing. I have tried a lot of stuff. Home brew is not worth it since case lube is inexpensive and goes a very long way. The RCBS lube is the best by far but if you want good for very little money try this. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/623016/sharp-shoot-r-royal-case-sizing-wax-4-oz-jar If you want a spray than try this https://www.midwayusa.com/product/882809/sharp-shoot-r-royal-case-sizing-lube-8-oz-pump-spray I have formed thousands of very large cases with these without EVER getting a case stuck. It is inexpensive and it is good. Some of the cases I must form on a 5T hydraulic press. I have used about 20% out of the container of the solid, have formed THOUSANDS of cases and they pop out like "butter"
Never had a reason to use anything but RCBS 2.
Dillon case lube.
I have been using petroleum based lube for years. I worked in petroleum research and other areas. All you need is a product that provides a film of lube that reduces or prevents metal to metal contact. The higher the vis the thicker the oil film between sliding parts. . I have recently used a light synthetic oil and a light vis petroleum based hydraulic fluid from Auto Zone (about $7 a quart). Resizing 6BR and 6BRX cases. I like to roll the cases on a pad since I get a uniform thickness. Wipe lube off with a paper towel. Never stuck a case since I started reloading about 1970.
The Lee case lube is water based. If you put some on a piece of paper and let it dry it gets as hard as a rock. Don't want water or hard adhering stuff in my dies. No reason to buy small tubes of expensive stuff from shooter supply stores.
All over the web in all forums that I frequent Hornady One Shot is the case lube most linked with rims pulled off leaving the cases stuck in the die.
Call any die mfr and they will tell you pretty much every stuck case they get is from 1-shot. Cant believe people still use it. Its not that hard to rub a wax on the sidewalls and you cant keep 1-shot off your shoulders and necks which dont need to be lubed period
A old timer told me this years ago, now I am old and telling you. Some of the very best lube is right in your kitchen it's vegetable oil. That is about all I use, and A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAYS and it's cheap. I like to use canola oil it's about the cheapest, but corn oil, olive oil, grape seed oil all work good. I process a lot of brass so I put 1000 or so rounds of 223/5.56 brass in a large plastic pan and give about 2 squirts of veg oil and mix by hand the oil and brass until I think all the cases are lubed. If some cases are hard to size then mix longer, if a lot then add a little more oil. But if you start to collapse the case shoulder you added too much oil, just take some paper towels and mix the brass using the towels.
If you process small amounts of brass just take the cap off the bottle place your hand on the top of the bottle and turn it upside down in your hand, set the bottle back down and rub the oil in your hands. Then pick up some brass and give it a roll in your hands that little bit of oil should lube 10 or 20 cases maybe more depending on the size of the cases.
Once you get used to using veg oil you will always use it. There are no bad smells and you can use it on all kinds of brass. The thing I like best about it is that it seems to soaks into the pores of the brass and lifts out the dirt that was left behind from the first cleaning, so when you clean it again to get the oil off it looks like new brass. I use the stainless steel pins soap and water......Just remember a little goes a long ways.
Lol, i have 2 Hornady dies in the junk/misc drawer now with ripped off rims ,used one shot
Granted its range brass that I would not put through Wilson or custom dies.
This stuff works like imp was and is good for your hands
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