Discussion in 'Reloading Forum (All Calibers)' started by Topwater, Jan 9, 2018.
One shot works pretty good on small cases. Crap on bigger stuff like bmg.
If I stick a case, I usually will loosen my decapping rod and bottom it out on the case rim. Then thread the decapper guide nut in a few threads, tighten the jam nut, put the die in my vice with the soft jaws, and slowly turn the guide nut in with a pair of channel locks. As I turn the guide nut in, the decapping rod drives the case out. It's not always a guarantee, but I have done this more than once without bending or damaging the rod. Works much better than beating with a hammer.
The RCBS stuck case remover tool set works pretty good too.
this was 32yrs ago when 1st started reloading had no clue about nothing, things have changed since lol, hell it prolly was not even one shot could have been some other spray but I do know it was spray because it was something new
I use mink oil in the paste form to do any major sizing, but Imperial for every day re-sizing. I'll hold a lighter under the tin on either product until it starts to melt.
That makes it a lot easier to put a very small amount on the brass.
I hope this helps,
If you are sticking cases with One Shot, then you probably either did a poor job of application, or, you did not let the cases sit for a minute or two, for the propellant to evaporate. I have done thousands with no problem.
It contaminates nothing inside, or outside of the neck. By using the method that I mentioned, none gets inside the case.
I’m with sbhooper on using One Shot. I’ve found that uniform, liberal application and time is all that is necessary for it to work very well.
I put all my brass lined up uniformly on a baking sheet, careful to hit all the cases equally. I leave enough open area on the sheet that after application of One Shot, I roll all the cases back and forth to facilitate an even spread of the wet One Shot...then I leave them be for a couple minutes. A specific shot into the lined up open necks after applying to the outside of the cases helps alot.
I’ve noticed that if I am not consistent in applying One Shot, I can feel the cases drag more...when this happens I apply a little Imperial to about every 4 or 5 cases to keep the die lubed. I’ll also use a little Imperial on the first few cases with One Shot to ensure the die is adequately lubed.
Following this method, I have not had a stuck case in over 12 years, and I’ve sized at least 10 cans worth of One Shot. This includes minor case forming (20Vartarg from Fireball). When forming other brass (6x47L, .243AI, any 30-06 neck-sized variant...I’ll use One Shot on the entire case and Imperial on the neck every 4 or 5 cases if I’m doing volume forming.
Your milage may vary, but I’ve found out long ago that most of the problems with most products I’ve had with over the years are issues with my technique...not necessarily an issue with the product...
I am still learning.
To get back and answer the OP, I’m sorry to say that I’ve not tried food grade silicon spray...but if I did I would follow my methodology above.
Well that statement can't be true, Step 5 in the directions on the can state: "After sizing, wipe each case and remove the remaining lubricant".
So, I just sprayed a case and let it set 2 minutes (did not wipe off because most users do not) and sprinkled H-380 over it and was attracted by the 1-shot residue. I call that contamination.
IMO the product is too indiscriminate in application. I like as much control in every step of my reload process as possible.
I also don't need to be breathing any more "harmful vapors" than absolutely necessary (says right on the can).
I tried using Hornady Case lube and it works fine for pistol cartridges, but i stuck a rifle cartridge in my FL Redding sizer so bad that i ruined the die trying to get it out. I sprayed heavily and waited for a couple of minutes as I had always done.
I then switched back to RCBS which I had never had a single issue with, except for the problem of removing it afterwards. I use a pad and find that some always finds its way into the neck, may it be ever so slightly. To remove I found Acetone to work well but always left a residue and I was concerned by how much of that residue may be in the case itself.
I recently purchased some of Redding biodegradable case lube from Sinclare. I must admit it lubes very well and come right off. I use hot water and some dish soap. Swish around a little and rinse. Case is squeaky clean.
Simple fix. Wipe off the casings. I always have, no matter what lube that I use. Why try so hard to make things complicated? As far as the vapors-good grief! Just do as I said and spray it into a zip loc with the casings. That is probably one of the least harmful things that you deal with on a daily basis.
I agree, it’s a “spray it outside” sort of product.
I will also add that i have been in the habit of spraying the cases while in the loading block and I intentionally try to get the inside neck area.
1) set the loading block in the sun and let the cases warm up
2) liberally spray the one-shot on the cases. You can see it flow all the way around the case....pretty cool really.
3) let it sit in the sun to dry, and maybe rotating it if time allows.
I have tested this against the tried and true imperial sizing die wax and cannot detect a difference at 600 yards.
I cannot imagine a loading bench without Imperial, I find it indispensable.
I wipe the exterior of the case with a rag and a little alcohol to clean the lube off, whichever lube is used. The chamber of my rifle is no place for any lube that will just attract “stuff”.
Separate names with a comma.