Discussion in 'Reloading Forum (All Calibers)' started by Ledd Slinger, Jan 9, 2018.
I don't have pictures but what I have done is each press has a dedicated steel plate that it's bolted to. All the holes in the steel plate match the holes in the table with countersunk nuts into the table so it's just a matter of three or four bolts very quick turn out and you put on a different press was very inexpensive and easy.
Gotcha. So it's basically like Terry's set up except the plates are metal. That would be good too
Mine... is considerably more simple than most here. Piece of 1x6 or 1x8 red oak from the local box store, sit the press on the board, trace the outline and mark the holes (a set of transfer punches makes that a whole lot easier, but an appropriately sized brad-point drill bit will work just fine). Drill thru, then counter-bore from the back side for the shank of a tee-nut like those linked to in one of the posts above. Also countersink using a spade bit about 1/16" for the flat head. Pound the nut into the hole, so it sits flush. Flip it back over, bolt the press down using whatever hardware floats your boat. Clamp it to the bench with c-clamps. Works well, and travels to the range well too. If you are loading somewhere at you don't want to mar the table top (i.e. hotel room the night before a match) you can get a sheet of cork or felt and some spray adhesive and put it on the bottom of the board.
These allow presses to be placed in an infinite number of locations:
I drilled 4 holes through the desk/bench and put black caps in them when not in use
On the under side I used these nut like things that permanently counter sink into the wood
I then mount different tools to 3/4" pieces of wood that can be bolted to the desk/bench
I just have 1/4" holes and drop a carriage bolt through the top and spin a wing nut on from below.
I do that for my LCT press but that's only because the bolt size needed for those specialty nuts are to large in diameter for the press base or I'd have that press set up the same way . Those nut things are really just for the ease of not having to keep , find , thread the nut on . My method , you just drop the bolt in the hole and the nut is always there lined up perfectly .
The idea came to me because I used to refelt pool tables and that's the type of nut used for the rails or I would have never known they exist .
I guess the correct name is T-nuts . They have them at all your big box hardware stores
It's best to have a softer solid wood for them to dig into . I used 1x pine planks glued to the bottom of my desk . I don't think they'd counter sink into oak very well and would likely just chew up particle or fiber board and fall out at some point .
Thats what Im on, a 1 1/4" slab of solid oak milled from trees off of the ranch. There isnt anything getting inserted into it LOL
And a correction: I skipped carriage bolts and went to normal hex to avoid the square shank below the bolt head contacting the press holes, a hex bolt is flush on the under side.
It serves double duty as a coffee table in the man cave, I dont even notice the bare holes when the press isnt mounted.
I use the flush surface mount inline products. Can change a Rock Chucker and a T7 in about 3-5 minutes. I also use three mounting plates for the T7 with a caliber in eache.
lots of ways to do it ledd. i just took a one foot square 1/2” steel plate. since my final top on bench was 1/2 plywood i cut a spot out so plate fits flush with bench top. then drill and tap plate for various tools.
Yeah I had a bunch of different ideas in my head prior to posting this thread. I'm just getting different points of view before I decide how I want to proceed
I use the Lee "Z-Rails" to mount and switch my presses. I use Lee presses ranging from their "C" press through Loadmaster for loading my "mouse" calibers. I use a Hornady 50 BMG Press for my 50 reloading. My buddy made the adapter (part in black) out of 6061-T6 and I then had it Hard Anodized. The extra bolt going through the bench is for stabilty when resizing 50 BMG cases. It utilizes the Stainless T-Nut linked in post #28.
My bench top is 3/4 ply laminated to 1/2 ply, with a piece of 1/2 X 10 X 60 aluminum plate at the front. I drilled and tapped holes for 4 presses. I keep 3 in place, the two Dillons and the Rockchucker. The tapped mounting holes for the shotshell progressive, a Wilson trimtool tool, etc, are all plugged with setscrews to keep the work area flush and clean. If I need to mount anything else I will drill and tap for it.
Nice. How much did that big slab of aluminium run you and where did you get it?
My bench already looks way worse than Terry's. I don't need more eyesores! Lol
Mine isn't as slick as the other here but it's cheap and it works. I have a Horrible Freight workbench that is made for woodworking so it has holes it it that I use for this. I mount my presses (and vise, trimmer) to 2x6's and use bolts and wingnuts to hold them to the bench. I drilled shallow holes in the one for my turret press to hold shells when adding powder.
The bench also has a wood vise on one end that comes in handy.
Sorry, don't remember what it cost, it was 16 years ago. I did buy it from www.metalsupermarkets.com
OK, I wasn't aware Better Homes and Gardens magazine had started to cover Man Cave decorums.
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