Discussion in 'Main Message Board' started by nilebartram, Jun 7, 2019.
Has anyone had problems with the symmetry of a Savage recoil lug? nilebartram
I’ve never had a known issue, but any that I remove are replaced with a precision ground lug from NSS.
I posted in your other thread, but yes, I have...and it canted my barrel.
Here's another thread where a member demonstrates the same concept (it was his fault, but a .008 piece of tape between the barrel nut and recoil lug caused it to cant)
I've seen other threads on this forum, and over on SavageShooters where that was the case. There have also been issues with 'out of spec' barrel nuts causing the barrel to cant in the barrel channel.
Since this is a new rifle, I'd shoot it first, because there's a good chance it's just a cosmetic issue.
That said, if it bothers you a whole lot, and you have the tools, take the barrel off the action and investigate.
I have a Shilen barrel on a Savage right now that I had to reinstall 2-3 times taking extra care to 'clock/time' the lug just right in order to get the barrel to sit straight in the channel. And before anyone freaks out, yes I know there's a key on the front of the recoil lug/action to align it...my aftermarket lug's key had probably .020-.040 of play where it inserted into the action.
The factory lug are stamped out,Not flat, or parallel.You can purchase Precision lugs,and barrel nuts.NSS and a few other places have them
I take all my factory Savage lugs and make them into pull chain keys for my shop lights.
New barrel = new barrel nut and quality machined lug.
Bed the recoil lug and it will work just fine.....I've used both custom and factory recoil lugs and can tell you that the factory one is serviceable as is.....I'd be willing to bet that the factory recoil lug on a Savage will not hurt your ability to shoot well with a capable rifle and that an aftermarket lug won't help....But I'm cheap when it comes to certain things....if I can get buy with the parts on hand by god I'm going to use them. My el-cheapo solutions don't sit well with the "gotta replace everything" crowd. But I can't afford to throw money at parts that don't really help.
I have a flat steel plate that I use as a sanding block, 10 minutes with fine grit and most factory lugs are flat. I do carefully bed the lugs.
The lug may be flat on one or both sides, but is it parallel? Very important in my experience. Just a thought.
Not only are the stock recoil lugs not flat, but the front face of the action frequently has a burr that holds the lug off-axis. On one new model 12FV I purchased, I could see light between the recoil lug and action face.
The front face of the Savage action is knurled, presumably to harden and flatten/true it. However this leaves a burr or ridge along the outer edge of the action that isn't always removed during manufacturing.
Be sure to remove that burr before fitting a precision ground lug, or even a reworked factory lug.
Its a factory lug, stamped out with a yuge press by the millions to go on a mass produced action. Every piece must be reworked if you care. Dont expect much from mass produced stuff.
I agree. I also submit that it is relatively simple to check. A half-dozen or more readings evenly spaced around the lug will tell the tale. If they match, you're in business. If not, you can order and measure a ground lug, or set about correcting it with your sandpaper/flat plate. Option 2 is difficult to do correctly, but certainly possible if you're patient and have the time.
I looked at the receiver and recoil lug. One side is flush and the other side, there is a slight ridge,.020". Should I remove it or wait and get a Northland recoil lug? Why does it even leave the factory like that? nilebartram
Because using a higher quality part will not aid in making the rifle any more accurate.......
I have both factory and NSS,noting
Zero difference on paper
Alitte filing on the receiver and in the tang area and I centered the barrel. Thanks everybody. nilebartram
Dealt with this exact issue on a Savage Palma , my shooting friend wanted to get "Bedded" this last week . Since we weren't equipped to take everything apart , my solution was to do a little extra Dremel work behind the lug area . Dremel grind a bit on the back of the lug , and make a 3/32" thick stainless plate to insert behind the lug . Taped the barrel to get a straight fit in the channel and did the normal bedding application . Think it came out fine , since after we had him on target , he shot a 198 - 11x at 600 yds. Nice tight bedding job that helped take up a lot of the excessive slack in the over-sized pillar holes , too . And he no longer has any excuses , except the trigger puller .
Well you want the receiver face square, the recoil lug square and true and the nut. Even with out precision grinding tools you can check these and improve them if need be over how they left the factory. Well not the receiver face but the recoil lug and nut can be.
How do you get a recoil lug parallel without grinding tools? How do you grind a savage lug to start with?
Lol interesting real life savage lug story.
My savage 12 6BR had no nut and no recoil lug, custom barrel, factory three screw palma SS action, factory stock.
Shot it for 1200 rounds or so with no concerns. Very accurate rifle.
Decided to bed the action to the stock, so shipped it to a very well known gun builder for real pillars and bedding.
He called me an had a fit! This thing is unsafe! Wont go forward on this rifle without a lug. Three screws - aren't enough. I argued to no avail.
Sends it back to me, and the next day and I cut the OD of the barrel back for the lug and install a super duper parallel SS ground recoil lug and get the headspace back where my existing brass works. PITA
Ship it back to the gun builder and have it perfectly pillar bedded to a Savage factory stock, with the super duper recoil lug installed. Still nutless.
Result: rifle shoots the same, maybe.. slightly better than before. Thank god it didnt goto crap, but it didn't really improve things much either.
Lets say, in my mind, I enjoy shooting it more now..whew!
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