Resizing Failure

Discussion in 'Reloading Forum (All Calibers)' started by FatOldMIHunter, Jan 11, 2018.

  1. Barlow

    Barlow Silver $$ Contributor

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    As said before, either take .005 off the top of the shell holder or the base of the die. That should fix the problem, is has for me and countless others. Barlow
     
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  2. hogpatrol

    hogpatrol Gold $$ Contributor

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  3. wholman

    wholman

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    are you sure your problem is not at the base too.
    try a small base die.
     
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  4. FatOldMIHunter

    FatOldMIHunter

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    The die is in full contact with the shell holder + 1/2 turn. More pressure on the press seems like a bad idea.The die and shell holder are RCBS. I'm not sure why this other information would matter, but the press is a Lee single stage, the brass is Norma 6.5X55 Swede, and the rifle is a Howa 1500.
     
  5. dickn52

    dickn52 Gold $$ Contributor

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    How much/many pcs of bras are you talking about? Do you still own the original rifle? Move on.
     
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  6. FatOldMIHunter

    FatOldMIHunter

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    Pretty sure. The comparator tells me the shoulder is not set back the same as the successful cases. The micrometer tells me the case diameters are at or slightly below SAAMI specs.
     
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  7. tuttlefarm

    tuttlefarm

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    Lots of bullshit on this thread............ just take .005 off the top of the shell holder and resize........... just use this shell holder with this die set
     
  8. dsculley

    dsculley

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    As you said in your first post, and as others have agreed, you just need to sand/grind a bit off the top of your shell holder. Lots of us have done so when brass could not be sized down enough for the chamber. Measure with your caliper, grind .006 - .010 off the top and then try resizing that brass. The first time I was faced with your issue, I considered it a no-brainer and took the shell holder to my belt grinder. Problem solved.
     
  9. 243winxb

    243winxb

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  10. FatOldMIHunter

    FatOldMIHunter

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    About 200. Yes. I am at the move on point. I will keep the old brass for the M38 and buy all new brass for the new rifle. It may be that the old brass is harder and refusing to size just enough make it useless for the new rifle.
     
  11. Dave T

    Dave T

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    Yes move on. Get new brass for your new gun or just keep factory brass shot in new gun I’ve been where you are keep your brass separate for each gun.
     
  12. FatOldMIHunter

    FatOldMIHunter

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    If I do this, I may need to have a separate shell holder for new brass for the new rifle so I don't set the shoulder back too far. I can live with that. But I can just not use the old brass with the new rifle.
     
  13. Twicepop

    Twicepop

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    What caliber is it? I've read that this is a common problem with 38-40 and 44-40. The articles that I've read about this problem, the fix was to grind or lathe cut a small amount of material off the bottom of the sizing die to push the shoulder back to it's factory position.
     
  14. FatOldMIHunter

    FatOldMIHunter

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    6.5 Swede.
     
  15. FatOldMIHunter

    FatOldMIHunter

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    Okay, the new brass (Hornady) just arrived and it does successfully chamber a bit tightly right out of the box. It's time to start reloading it for a breakin of the bore. I have wanted to shoot this rifle since the day I got it. It has been hard not to just buy a box of factory ammo and start shooting. This breakin is a first for me, so I'm going to start another thread about that if I can't find it addressed in a search. Thanks for the suggestions. At this point, I think it's just better to reserve the old brass for the old rifle.
     
  16. Twicepop

    Twicepop

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    I have a Swede on a Savage single shot action, and haven't experienced a problem like you're describing. I use Lapua brass and L.E. Wilson dies and the only problem I've encountered is the inside neck diameter of my unturned brass is too small to seat bullets after F/L sizing. To combat this I use a Sinclair neck expander die/mandrel.
     
  17. FatOldMIHunter

    FatOldMIHunter

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    From reading other threads, I now think it is plausible that the old Norma brass (40+ years) is just too hard and resistant to resizing at the shoulder by such a small increment. It was likely fired in the old Mauser many times by my late FIL. This is my first time attempting to properly break in a new rifle and my first time using new never fired brass. I thought the old brass might be better suited for a breakin, but obviously not if it won't chamber.
     
  18. carlsbad

    carlsbad Lions don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep. Gold $$ Contributor

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    paint a piece of brass that won't chamber and see where it is rubbing. You can use dykem, majic marker, spray paint, etc.
     
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  19. remdriver

    remdriver Silver $$ Contributor

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    This
     
  20. FatOldMIHunter

    FatOldMIHunter

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    Interesting test, because it worked. Thanks. Contact point with the chamber was right at the neck/shoulder boundary.

    0112181713.jpg

    Having confirmed this and operating on the theory that it was hardened brass, I heated the neck/shoulder for a few seconds with a heat gun. That's hotter than a hair dryer but cooler than a torch. Then I ran it into the die and held it there for a 10 count. When I took it out, it was barely warm, but it chambered in the rifle. The comparator verified it had resized to 1.765. That's about .001" lower than the largest that has chambered. Now I have to decide whether to heat the old brass for the breakin or use the new. It's kind of a PITA to heat the brass.
     

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