Replacement top for Caldwell Fire Control

[DrJeckyl]

Started this thread in the reloading forum, my mistake.

Nice rest for the $$$ but is lacking in the top rest dept, not sure why Caldwell didn't offer at least a larger top as an option but problem solved.

The Sinclair RT-3 fits perfect with minor modifications, I believe this is being replaced by an updated version with a different return to battery post.

The factory top has a raised mounting portion so a 1/8" piece of stock will be needed as a spacer to the flat-bottom RT-3. Needs to be cut to the same length as the movable portion on the rest.

I only needed a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum stock and two 10-32x1" stainless screws in addition to the RT-3...screws need some blue loctite as well.

Plan the mounting accordingly so the left thumbscrew clears the vertical height column at full left position, there is a cutaway in the rest under the thumbscrew and allows for easy access to the screw.

May go with an Edgewood bag but had this curdura thinking it would work with the factory top, at least I know I can fit practically any top bag to it now.

 

[ThunderDownUnder]

Thats a great solution!!!!!!! Now the FireControl has much better real world fire control.

 

[JasonShore]

Fantastic,great idea
Can you measure the distance from the side of the base plate the location of the drilled holes that you drilled.
this will help people not making costly mistakes
Thanks Jason

 

[DrJeckyl]

In this photo, you are looking at the plate as if you would be in front of the rest looking back at the joystick, vertical adjustment on your right.

Obviously, disregard the hole in the center.

I assume no responsibility for my measurements not working with anyone elses base

The hole on the right is 13/16" from right edge, both are 7/8" from long edge,nearest joystick)

13/16 is as close as you want to get allowing 1/8" for error to avoid contacting the vertical column at full left movement, you may want to increase that distance to 7/8 to be on the very safe side, I like it being close and having the top as close to center as possible of the main rest..just my preference.

Holes in rest are exactly 2 21/64" apart, center to center...I went with 2 5/16" but drilled the holes slightly larger to avoid any error in drill bit wandering..I recommend this anyway unless you have a computer aided drilling machine.

I used a 7/32 bit for the screws and that's slightly oversize to allow for error, to fully countersink the head I used a 3/8 bit.

Dont forget to add the spacer, good luck.

 

[JasonShore]

Thanks mate for your time and effort
most helpfull
Jason

 

[JasonShore]

all good
Thanks Jason

 

[edpmedic]

Well now that I know a Sinclair top will fit I am getting one of these rests. I just tried 2 of them at Reade Range today and the do seem to work and are very sturdy.
My concern was needing a 3' bag and this fits the bill. By the way after looking at some posts and the trouble people were having with the rest. The 2 guys that had them told me that you can adjust the amount of tension for the joy stick and also the coarse elevation adjustment.
For the price and since I have a Sinclare top it is worth buying...Thanks for the pictures and doing the work.

 

[pdice]

How is the tension adjusted on the joystick?

 

[MGYSGT]

There are 4 allen screws with nylon tips in the back that apply tension. They suggest you only move them very slightly (1/8 turn or less), untill you get the stiffness in the joystick and rest you desire. I did this and they are not kidding. Do not over tighten them. A little is a lot. They also say you should move all 4 of them equally.

 

[DCRYDER]

I've had mine apart and my tension screws had steel ball bearings instead of nylon tips. The ball bearings wear grooves in the crappy cast aluminum plate they ride on. I must have an older one or something. Like I said I had mine completely apart and am surprised that they track as well as they do. A lot of upgrading can be done to these rests. I thought about either putting springs between the screws and balls, or replacing balls with delrin/nylon/teflon tips.

 

[DCRYDER]

Oh yeah, I replaced the "humped up" base with a flat 1" thick steel plate to get the rest to go lower. Original is way too high for me.

 

[ttfreestyle]

can the plate that the ball bearings are wearing grooves in be replaced or upgraded?

 

[DCRYDER]

I think it could be block sanded back to smooth and polished, then replace the steel balls with a nylon/delrin/teflon tip. The internal parts are very simple to reassemble, taking pics as you disassemble will make the job even easier.

 

[normmatzen]

My Mentor in Australia and I both bought these rests and found the joy stick design slightly lacking also.

We first sanded down the furrows worn in the plate the balls "roll" on then got a hardened steel cabinet makers scraper. We cut a groove in it the outline of the plate area and used this as a fracture line and broke off the excess. Then we cut a hole in the middle area for the joy stick to go through. Then epoxied this plate to the old bearing area.

Now the magic! My friend turned 4 grub screws so they had a hole in the end that just cleared a small spring and he turned 4 brass rivet shaped pieces that just fit in the spring . We installed these new grub screws in place of the old plastic tipped ball bearing holders. We also put a lock nut around the screws. Adjust all 4 screws equally till the rest supports the weight of your gun reliably and you are good to go!
I have used this rest for over a year with no problems with the joy stick. I have since learned that my little torque screw driver allows me to adjust each screw to the same torque, about 8 in-lbs.

 

[jerdebson]

Hello all, has anyone used one of these long term and what mods were needed, if any. Sorry to dig this up but I'm interested. TIA Jerry