Removed ejector from my Tikka 595

[Nomo4me]

I meant to do it long ago and finally got around to it today before heading to the range.
Wish I had done it much, much sooner. Anal retentive me can now pluck the empties from off the mag follower rather than reach over with the left hand to retard them as they attempt to flip way off to the right.
With the ejector removed feeding singly off the top of the mag follower also works much better now. With it in place (left side of the bolt face) the case neck would often hang up on the right edge of the chamber as the round was pushed home. No more.
Finally, I guess the ejector spring was MUCH too strong, as camming the bolt closed used to require enough effort that I was worried about galling the lugs. I assumed this was because I was neck sizing only in a bushing die. Nope. With the ejector removed closing the bolt is like passing a hot knife through butter.
It's just all.............. good!

 

[FatDaddy]

I just had the same same experience with my savage. Its a treat not to chase brass around or pick it up off the ground. Bill

 

[ED3]

I just came across this thread doing a forum search for: "Tikka Ejector".
It is my intent to either weaken the plunger spring, or remove the ejector plunger entirely for the same reasons as the OP.
I can't find any specific drawings or information regarding the ejector assembly.
It is simple enough to remove the firing pin assembly, but I'm not sure how to continue beyond that.
Given it's Tuesday afternoon, and I have every intention of attending one of the last matches of the season this weekend, I am more than a bit apprehensive to start experimenting by driving out the roll pin without knowing what that will ...'accomplish'.
If someone could explain how to perform this task, or offer up some drawings of the lug/ ejector assembly, I would be most appreciative.

Regards,

ED3

 

[AckleymanII]

Try cutting the ejector spring to where there is just enough spring to flip the case outside the rifle.

 

[ED3]

Try cutting the ejector spring to where there is just enough spring to flip the case outside the rifle.

That has become my plan.
Once I learned how to remove the ejector assembly, it's a pretty simple task...save for the potential of launching a lot of small, expensive parts.

 

[Mikemci]

Nomo4me....Have you seen any improvement in accuracy, without the ejector in the bolt ? I have wondered if that spring pressure may be pushing the cartridge to one side in the chamber.

 

[ED3]

Nomo4me....Have you seen any improvement in accuracy, without the ejector in the bolt ? I have wondered if that spring pressure may be pushing the cartridge to one side in the chamber.

Just so you know - I resurrected an 8-1/2 year old thread with my post..

 

[Mikemci]

Just so you know - I resurrected an 8-1/2 year old thread with my post..

Didn't notice that. Guess I won't be checking back for a response.

 

[timeout]

Didn't notice that. Guess I won't be checking back for a response.

Last seen here March 8, 2015.

 

[K22]

I have a Rem Model 7, 223 that will not eject the spent case. I even installed a Sako extractor. I full size the cases with a .002" shoulder bump but still it lays the case in the mag well.

I finally realized that this is good, at least for me. I can't tell you how many cases I've lost in the field in high hay from ejected cases from other rifles. I now consider this "defect" a blessing since I haven't lost one case. It also makes me be more deliberate in my shooting knowing it's pretty much a one shot one kill situation. While I wouldn't want this in a big game rifle it's really no big deal in a varmint rifle.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Take it apart inside a plastic bag. You can drive the punch right thru the plastic

 

[Steve Ladino]

I just came across this thread doing a forum search for: "Tikka Ejector".
It is my intent to either weaken the plunger spring, or remove the ejector plunger entirely for the same reasons as the OP.
I can't find any specific drawings or information regarding the ejector assembly.
It is simple enough to remove the firing pin assembly, but I'm not sure how to continue beyond that.
Given it's Tuesday afternoon, and I have every intention of attending one of the last matches of the season this weekend, I am more than a bit apprehensive to start experimenting by driving out the roll pin without knowing what that will ...'accomplish'.
If someone could explain how to perform this task, or offer up some drawings of the lug/ ejector assembly, I would be most appreciative.

Regards,

ED3

Tikka T3 Heavy .223 Varmint......remove firing pin assembly.....drift out ejector retaining pin from the opposite side, do not drive into fireing pin assembly bore. There will be a small coil spring and a ejector cylinder …..not under a lot of pressure......just retain with your fingers after removing the punch