Discussion in 'Gun Project Questions & Gunsmithing' started by Bataction, Aug 3, 2019.
What fixtures are you guys using to true Remington 700 bolts? Pictures?
Go to Mike Bryant's website. I believe the way Mike does it is the best.
At one time he featured his bolt truing method and tools.
A steady rest and spud to fit in the back.
I forgot to add I always use a Tru Set chuck chuck so my back end gets dialed in.
Labounty bolt fixture
I use a 3 axis fixture. I also made a labonty style fixture that is set up perfectly for remingtons. I have a labounty that is very difficult for me to get true in 3 axes. Might be for sale soon. --Jerry
LaBounty bolt fixture as well. One thing that needs to be considered, is the fact that a factory bolt is anything but straight or concentric. It will be very hard to get anything perfect, no matter the method that you use to hold it.
Hard to do a good job with the LaBounty if bolt is not true to start.
I REMOVE THE HANDLE,(AS I AM GOING TO TIG IT & TIME ) & MACHINE THE LUGS IN A COLLET IN THE LATHE.'
That is OK if the threaded end and the other machined parts are coaxial to the OD of the bolt body.
Dual cat heads. So you can directly indicate the bolt body behind the lugs and in front of the handle. When truing very tight actions you have to be dead on or you wont get both lugs to seat.
^ i have a fixture like the ones viper copied and its good as well
Do you have a picture of what you are referring to?
Maybe something like this? I ran this setup twice before I scrapped the idea and just went with a 5C collet.
How do you get the boltface with that old setup gene?
I was wondering that to
I’m picturing something like a cat head in the spindle chuck and a cat head in a steady rest?
I suppose stick a steady before removing the tailstock spider. That is how Mike Bryant showed me.
That's exactly it. It is, of course, problematic and difficult to maintain position when tranitioning from the spider to the steady. Another reason I gave up on this complicated setup.
I have a 4"rotating chuck that fits the tailstock. I true up a stub screwed into the rear of the bolt the usual way. Then hold the bolt on both ends. The stub and the bolt nose. Then run an indicator back and forth to get the body body running parallel. Sounds good until you realize a complete, two piece, bolt is very seldom straight.
Here is my rookie rendition for illustration.
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