Rem 700 factory lug thickness and switching barrels

Discussion in 'Gun Project Questions & Gunsmithing' started by urbanrifleman, Mar 13, 2018.

  1. urbanrifleman

    urbanrifleman Gold $$ Contributor

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    Say I want to move a shouldered barrel from one 40x action to another. Is there an easy way to reindex the barrel and set the headspace?

    What is the stock lug thickness on a 40x?
     
  2. jpretle

    jpretle Silver $$ Contributor

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    I have measured them from .181-.190, w/ most being .186-.189
     
  3. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    I'm pretty sure boltfluter can make you a custom lug, if you need it. I think I remember him getting set up to do that.
     
  4. hoz53

    hoz53 Gold $$ Contributor

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    some people make recoil lugs to certain thicknesses to get the barrel from another gun to headspace right. most would say you need a surface grinder to grind the lug to a thickness required. you might get lucky and the barrel headspaces correctly though.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2018
  5. hoz53

    hoz53 Gold $$ Contributor

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    thats good info, i assumed they were all the same (within tolerance) i wonder if they sometimes adjust headspace at the factory by using different thickness lugs.
     
  6. hogpatrol

    hogpatrol Gold $$ Contributor

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  7. shortgrass

    shortgrass

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    It appears OEM Rem "barrel brackets" (recoil lugs) are a stamping. Measurements are all over the place. Mic on one side might say .187" and straight across from there might be .188". No consistent thickness from one side to the other, or top to bottom. That is why a custom, ground lug is preferred. For the even thickness, not necessarily the added strength. The hole needs to be as close to 90* to the flat sides as possible, too.
     
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  8. akajun

    akajun

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    I miked all my leftover factory lugs, most were within .001 if each other. The big issue is that all were warped, you could Rock them on a granite surface plate.
    I surface ground them all, taking about .002 off each side to get them flat. When grinding it revealed some were twisted, some curled like a potato chip, etc. I think that is where the fault lies in a factory lug
     
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  9. urbanrifleman

    urbanrifleman Gold $$ Contributor

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  10. carlsbad

    carlsbad Lions don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep. Gold $$ Contributor

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    When I do this job, I put on a .250 recoil lug, move the shoulder back, and double check all the other dimensions involved in fitting a barrel to a bolt nose.
     
  11. butchlambert

    butchlambert Site $$ Sponsor

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    I use factory lugs, but I do have a surface grinder. I also have recoil lugs fitted and attached to the bottom of the receiver.
     
  12. urbanrifleman

    urbanrifleman Gold $$ Contributor

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    I had my main rifle lug pinned. I am trying to get my others pinned, and it is like a 6 month wait for an hours worth of machine work!!!
     
  13. butchlambert

    butchlambert Site $$ Sponsor

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    Look up Rex Reneau in Okie City.
     
  14. urbanrifleman

    urbanrifleman Gold $$ Contributor

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    It is too late. I cannot send off my action now. Season is coming. Go to get to working up loads and practicing!!
     
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  15. hoz53

    hoz53 Gold $$ Contributor

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    to drill a hole in a lug is pretty simple. they do have a tool you could get from brownells to keep the lug strait. to me the pinned lug is convieience. ive tightened barrels without pinned lugs lots of times by using shims. you can figure out how thick a lug you need and take one to a local machine shop and have them surface grind it for you and drill it for a pin for that matter. seems simple to me. oh and if you do this id use an after market one not one of the junk factory ones
     
  16. alinwa

    alinwa

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    PTG, jus' sayin'......
     

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