New gun with new ammo and have zero headspace change after firing?

Discussion in 'Reloading Forum (All Calibers)' started by noobie, Feb 6, 2019.

  1. noobie

    noobie

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    I was working on reloading my first 30-06 as a learning lesson and struggled to say the least. I have watched many video's and read the reloading book from Hornady. I attempted to setup the sizing die so that I created a headspace gap of .003 on a once fired round out of my rifle. I just couldn't budge the head back at all and ended up ruining the die and shell. Well screwed that up for sure! Fortunately they aren't terribly expensive. I spent the evening thinking about what I did wrong and am still a little baffled. My assortment of once fired cases all measure very close if not exactly 2.0450 using the Hornady headspace measuring kit using the .375". The new unfired shells also measure 2.0450. Would a new gun and new shells have such tight tolerances that the cases just didn't stretch at all? After the fact researching I believe the minimum measurement on a 30-06 case from base to datum line is 2.0487. So I am already below the minimum with new shells and the once fired shells. I suppose trying to go even smaller is what killed the whole deal? Wish I had seen notes about that in the 15 some articles and video's I watched about headspace. They all just pretty much say for hunting to go .003 below the spent round case. I'm guessing that didn't work out at all since I am already below the min? Any advice? Do I just use the full sizing die to neck size them? Do I get neck sizing die? Don't want to break another die so any advice would be appreciated.

    Gun is a new Tikka T3X Lite Stainless if that matters at all. Only about 150 rounds fired in it.
     
  2. Riesel

    Riesel Gold $$ Contributor

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    I really considered sizing dies to be somewhat bullet proof. However, I have seen cases stuck in dies and then the die was pretty much all scuffed up or worse trying to get the stuck case out in an unorthodox manner, not using a stuck case puller. That being said, don't overthink this. Set your die up to just touch the shell holder, size one and try the resized case in your rifle. It should close fairly easily, if you're forcing the bolt to close and then you have to hammer the bolt, STOP DOING THAT. If it closes easily, do another and try it. Don't get all wrapped up in a few thousand on the headspace, there are other bigger issues to worry about. Your Tikka T3X is a fine hunting rifle and is capable of very good hunting accuracy. Hope for that.
    Best Regards,
    Riesel
     
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  3. txtaxman

    txtaxman Silver $$ Contributor

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    noobie,
    Check the deck height of the shell holder--it is normally 0.125". If it is too high, you will not be able to size the case to its normal/desired length from case head to datum. A work around for this is to insert a feeler gauge between the shell holder and the case (thanks to F Guffey).
     
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  4. clunker

    clunker

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    Welcome to the forum! There are a lot of great members on this forum who would be happy to help out someone getting started in reloading, and they will likely be chiming in shortly. I don't have enough experience to be offering advice, but let us know where you are located. I have two Tikkas, and both of them shoot like lasers.
     
  5. daleboy

    daleboy Silver $$ Contributor

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    Have you tried a fired case in your rifle ? You may find it fits just fine and no need to bump the shoulder back yet because your case is not fully formed after one firing.
     
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  6. Uncle Ed

    Uncle Ed

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    What was your powder charge and bullet weight?

    Were the primers protruding after firing?

    If your powder charge was anywhere from the start load to a mid-range load the chamber pressure may not been high enough to push the base of the case against the bolt face and force the shoulder forward.

    You may also have a chamber set close to the GO gauge and the dies headspace is longer than your chambers headspace, or just a bad defective resizing die.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2019
  7. hogpatrol

    hogpatrol Don't criticize the farmer with your mouth full. Gold $$ Contributor

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    What daleboy said. It may take a couple firings before it needs bumped.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2019
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  8. philip brousseau

    philip brousseau

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    noobie. that hornady headspace tool is only a comparator. used to tell how much you are moving the shoulder. the hole in the .375 gauge is probably not .375. mine is .370. it is not a tool for measuring the true base to datum line measurement. the only way I think you could ruin the die is if the decapping rod was hitting the bottom of the case and bent the rod. what do you mean by ruined the sizing die?
     
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  9. snert

    snert Gold $$ Contributor

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    If a fired case goes back in the chamber easily, don't sweat moving it. Brass expands, and it contracts (that way we can get it out). It usually takes three or more firings in a factory chamber for the brass to "grow" to where it needs pushed back. Keep in mind that factory brass must fit in the smallest SAAMI chamber. Barrel makers (factory) tend to be on the larger end of Saaami spec. So little case, big hole. Give it a few tries and it will grow.
     
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  10. noobie

    noobie

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    That shell is not ever coming out. Well not with the tools I have.
     
  11. noobie

    noobie

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    These were stock bullets. Not sure on the powder charge since they are from the manufacture. All the cases are from 150, 165 and 180 grain bullets. Doesn't seem to matter. None of the cases grew from one fire in a new gun.
     
  12. noobie

    noobie

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    Thank You! I sure wish they would tell you this in the video's on how to setup a resizing die.
     
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  13. daleboy

    daleboy Silver $$ Contributor

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    Glad to help,that is what this forum is all about.

    Well,you got your first stuck case in the record books...I bet you won't do that again.

    All chambers are different ,you could have a tight one and it could be possible you will see very little shoulder movement . You will know after two or three firings .

    I don't own a Tikka but I would imagine stripping the bolt is easy . By using the "Stripped bolt method " you will be able to tell how much your shoulder needs to get bumped at this time or not . Tons of stuff to learn,overwhelming at first but once you get an understanding of what each aspect of the process does it makes perfect sense...well,most of it anyways .

    Good luck
     
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  14. Ggmac

    Ggmac Gold $$ Contributor

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    Find a mentor . Forget what your doing . Resize full length , test fit in your rifle (( empty case ) and if the bolt closes easily, reload and go shooting .
     
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  15. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    One more tip: Imperial sizing wax. I haven’t stuck a case since I started using it.;)
     
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  16. SPJ

    SPJ Gold $$ Contributor

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    Good Morning,
    If I may chime in"
    number 1
    Please do not attempt to strip a Tikka bolt, if you make a mistake it's near impossible to get it back together!
    Number 2 I believe Tikka has a Euro CIP chamber not SAMMI
    number 3- get a Wilson case gauge
    Number 4 learn how to use it
    Number-5 you haven't mentioned getting a case stuck, not sure were that came from, how did you ruin a heat treated , case harden Die ? I can't even do that.
    Number-6 there's easy ways to set up Dies and then there is the interweb ways.
    BTW welcome
     
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  17. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    Guys! Stripping a Tikka bolt is easier than a Remington! No special tool needed! If I have some time later, I’ll post a tutorial. I can do it in my sleep.;)
     
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  18. SPJ

    SPJ Gold $$ Contributor

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    That would be great Josh,
    Just so everyone is clear on the correct way, that firing pin is under quite a bit of pressure.
    Good on ya Buddy..
     
  19. SPJ

    SPJ Gold $$ Contributor

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    I only got 10 fingers, now I gotta take my shoes off!
     
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  20. SPJ

    SPJ Gold $$ Contributor

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    Is this #12?
    Any chance your using Hornday F/L sizing Die ?
     

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