Induction brass annealer redux

Discussion in 'Reloading Forum (All Calibers)' started by Gina1, Aug 26, 2016.

  1. Gina1

    Gina1

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    Anything I can do to help in your build ? One problem builders have run into is the case drop solenoid from Jamco is no longer available. To replace it just look for a 12 volt solenoid that has at a min .5" pull stroke, if not more from any vendor.

    Gina
     
  2. AWLEAPHART

    AWLEAPHART

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    Gina,
    Will this work?
    Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil
    Varistor 130vac 6500 or 2500

    A Leaphart
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
  3. davexre

    davexre

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    Thanks, Gina - I will let you know?

    I'm going to use the 24v solenoid you pointed out earlier in the thread. Another shooter I know discovered that that solenoid could operate at 48v @ 25% duty cycle (and it works that way in his build), so no need to have a 24v supply in the system just for the solenoid for this application, as it turns out. Pretty cool.

    I'm looking forward to getting into it - fun project, and very useful!
     
  4. Gina1

    Gina1

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    Yep, both will work.. IF... your line voltage is 110/120 volts AC. We have had a few builds, over sea's, where the line voltage is 220. In those cases the relay needed a 220 volt coil and the varistor
    had to be 230 volts..
    What the varistor does is keep the timer contacts from sparking, when the relay/contactor coil power is removed. Think of an ignition coil in a car. Any voltage higher than 130 volts will cause the varistor to conduct and short out this high voltage, protecting the timer relay contacts.
     
  5. Gina1

    Gina1

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    Good idea. On my annealer the drop time is set to .5 seconds out of a total anneal time of (anneal = 4.5 sec, drop time= .5 sec, reload time 3 sec) .5/8.0 = 6.25% duty cycle... Neat !!
    Just watch the increased current through the timer relay. I don't remember what the timer relay contacts current limit is, but running 48 volts on a 24 volt solenoid, will pull double the current, through the relay..
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
  6. davexre

    davexre

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    Good point - I'll double check that before wiring things up. Sounds like it's working on at least one build, now, though, without further modification, so... :)
     
  7. davexre

    davexre

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    Still pulls less than 1 amp at 48v - should be fine for the timer relay (which says it's rated to 3A, if I'm reading correctly)
     
  8. Gina1

    Gina1

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    Every bodies build... "wisdom of the crowd" Some really good idea's come out of this. I'll be the first one to take my hat off to ya'll.

    davexre.. When you get yours up and working, how about a picture. I always love to see the different designs.

    Gina :)
     
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  9. dskogman

    dskogman Gold $$ Contributor

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    You could replace the contact relay and varistor on the original design with a solid state relay (SSR). You would need to feed 12v thru timer A (7,8) instead of 120v.

    It’s been done on a few Arduino builds but should work fine on the original.
    I have done 300 cases as fast as I can feed them and the SSR does not even get warm.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753R568W/?tag=accuratescom-20
     
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  10. Gina1

    Gina1

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    One of the "good" idea's that have come thru this thread from all the different builders.

    dskogman.... Got a picture of your build ? Seeing pictures inspires others to get started.

    Have a good weekend
    Gina
     
  11. AWLEAPHART

    AWLEAPHART

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    Coolant out of stock on Amazon. Any substitute
    A Leaphart
     
  12. davexre

    davexre

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    Seems to be in stock? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012AQGVZY/?tag=accuratescom-20

    BTW - there's a whole bunch of equivalent coolants out there. It's just a basic coolant for high power computer rigs. Search Amazon for "liquid cooling system coolant" in the Electronics department, and you'll see a lot of options.
     
  13. GrocMax

    GrocMax

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    Any automotive product will work fine, ethylene or propylene glycol.
     
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  14. AWLEAPHART

    AWLEAPHART

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    Thanks.
    I just looked last. Every type keep showing up out of stock.
    A Leaphart
     
  15. kit-808

    kit-808

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    Dis stilled water, or de ionised, the stuff you used in iron, that will work well in the cooling system
     
  16. Gina1

    Gina1

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    In the very beginning I tried that. But algae formed in the warm water. Water clouded up, that's why I went with the coolant. Besides, the blue looks nice. :)
     
  17. jean-francois morin

    jean-francois morin

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    hello guys

    i,m building and inductor base on you design with a slit difference power supply is 24 volts 20 amps , i,m not and eletronic guru can not find varistor 130 vac from jameco it not avalable any more , my question can i replace 34462 varistor 130 vac by v 130 la20ap LA serie from littlefuse mouser or and other varistor would be more appropriate for this build . thank you
     
  18. normmatzen

    normmatzen Silver $$ Contributor

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    When I first started using a water cooled coil for my ANNIE, I put in a little fluid that I keep stocked up on which is for humidifiers to keep down the "growing things" in the coolant water. I have not had a problem and I don't have the toxic automotive coolant loose in the house.
     
  19. GrocMax

    GrocMax

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    propylene glycol is the non-toxic stuff.
     
  20. jthor

    jthor

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    Been reading and watching this post for the last week or so......this is an awesome thread! Ordering my supplies withing the next couple of weeks. Gonna build mine in an ventilated electronic project box or reuse an old computer tower. I'll build it first, tweak and change things I want and then make a feeder system controlled by an Ardiuno. :)
     

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