Discussion in 'Gun Project Questions & Gunsmithing' started by GSPV, Oct 1, 2018.
. oldguys statement about the utility’s and revenue is right on the money
The cost of a good quality VFD is under $300 for a 3hp and around $200 for a 1hp and adds a bunch of performance features to a South Bend 10L. I checked on 3 phase power to my house a few years back and it was going to cost thousands to hook it up and since I was residential and wouldn’t use anywhere near the minimum I was going to be charged a $120 a month access fee for 3 phase. A RPC will work great but you’re missing all the features a VFD brings. If you’re just going to have a couple of old technology 3 phase machines the VFD is the way to go and if you’re going to have more than four or five machines then a Phase Perfect would be the way to go imo.
I’ve got a rotary phase converter I built. It is handy for hooking up any miscellaneous 3phase motor I want to run. I’ve also got VFDs on machines where they are useful- like the lathe, mill ect. Everyone’s situation is a little different. I worked on MGM City Center in Las Vegas and they put VFDs on every motor in that place.
Greg, you are on the right path. 3 phase is not practical unless it's already there... and still not, at that.
Thx guys for allowing me to ask a couple of questions.
Apologies to Greg for last comment to SOG
The next time I'm at the power company I'll ask for some 3 phase clarification.
That's not what p... me off
Sounds like you have the best of all options. A low cost rotary and VFD’s where they do you the most good.
Hey guys, just a power update on my SB10L project.
I looked into doing the 220 outlet myself and got snowed under in all of the NEC associated with it.
So, I’ve got an electrician coming out Sunday to put in the 220 outlet.
I’ve got to double check my rewiring of the motor from 440 to 220. Just something that occurred to me and I can’t get out of my head.
From there, I’ll start on the VFD part of the project.
In an ideal world, I would have liked to run an initial test of the motor without the VFD in place. You know, the “change one thing at a time” philosophy. But, because I need the VFD for 1P-to-3P conversation, I can’t.
I’ve been following this tutorial. I’m not sold on the Teco VFD. I’m going to do quite a bit of research before selecting one. Looking for models that have awesome support. Life is too short to wade through incorrect documentation written by someone with poor English writing skills
GSPV , what , you can’t read and understand Chinglish ?...
It’s not that I cannot .
I *have* to deal with poor English and poor documentation in my work life. I *choose* not to in my personal life *and* I put my money where my mouth is.
While you have your electrician at your home, I'd suggest you have him check your motor wiring and look at the VFD you're considering while he's there. Conversations on the 'net can be difficult for many reasons, but some information you are presenting is a bit confusing. Best to make sure your set-up is what you need.
Just a suggestion, no offence intended to anyone.
Hook up your 220v into the input side of VFD and the 3PH output to motor(three wires). All over switches and controls are laid out in manual and controlled with low voltage(VFD side of drive).
Here is mine wired on bench.
Biggest hurdle is understanding the manual. Read it over and over...once you have an understanding of what is going on...it will fall into place. I've never touched a VFD in my life and got it figured out. I'm far from being a electrician also...then again...I'm sure many electricians never messed with a VFD.
My first option on VFD's are from https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Drives Manuals are available online and tech support is first rate. I have had two in my shop for 14 yrs with no problems.
I’ve already talked to him. All is good.
Programming the VFD, as long as the documentation is correct and I can get support will be easy-peasy. I do similar every blessed day and have for over 30 years. Try installing an Oracle SuperCluster from landing on the dock to running in production. It’s hairy.
I just don’t have time to either come up to speed on NEC and local regs. Nor do I have time for poor documentation or support. Not when I don’t have to
I don't see where NEC would apply or even necessary for your application. If you understand wiring, and I believe you do,.... it's just straight forward wiring. These drives draw very little load. We have large machines that only draw a few amps. Hard to believe so many drives and so little draw. If you have access to MTW wire 14ga is plenty, in or out. We throw away probably more than you will need, so it you have a need speak up, and I'll deliver.
If you would like to test drive a few different brands of manuals, I can supply also. Yaskawa, Teco, Lenze....
NEC and local codes come in because I do not have an available 220 outlet in my garage. I need an outlet and I need it done to code...since I’m selling the place in the relatively near future. I believe that that is all that I need the electrician for. From there, I think that I can handle it. Yes, there are other ways to skin this cat. I see having an outlet for the power side of the VFD...or something very close to that idea...as a divide and conquer strategy that will let me get on with this project, doing as much myself as possible, and not having a surprise foul up a sale when I want to move the house. Burnt once, I am now twice shy.
Dude, that is so nice of you to offer up the wire. I appreciate it! I’ll draw up what I think I’ll need and definitely hit you up. Again, I appreciate it! That’s why this forum is so cool. People willing to help one another.
When you install your 220 be sure you run 4 wire to the sub panel. Once you venture into 220v and above and 3ph the white is no longer usable as a ground,( never was) and the green is not to be connected to the neutral/white. 220 is 2-usually black- conductors.
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