Heavy 10 First Step - Power

Discussion in 'Gun Project Questions & Gunsmithing' started by GSPV, Oct 1, 2018.

  1. ckaberna

    ckaberna Gold $$ Contributor

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    C987B4CC-3478-4E3A-8104-9171D55F3CD9.jpeg B3EC1DAA-8D92-478B-B3DF-E81B4F3CAB0E.jpeg B3EC1DAA-8D92-478B-B3DF-E81B4F3CAB0E.jpeg Been running smooth for 5 years, part time of course, but get you a rotary. If / when you get your next 3ph. Piece just wire it in. If static converter or VFD you need a separate one. Pros and cons to both. You must decide what fits you.
     
  2. GSPV

    GSPV A failure to plan is a plan for failure.

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    Ok. Gotta think about this. I’m retiring in 3 years and moving back to TN. There won’t be another 3P machine before the move. But, if this works out, I might add a Bridgeport afterwards. Have thought about something to grind Remington type lugs true as well. Thoughts?
     
  3. hogpatrol

    hogpatrol Gold $$ Contributor

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    To grind lugs, you could either use a tool post grinder or a cylindrical grinder, small one as below.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. ckaberna

    ckaberna Gold $$ Contributor

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    I am running a “Wells Index” milling machine circa 1968, a Kalamazoo bandsaw late 70’s , a Cincinnati 12” grinder and the SB 10 all on this one rotary phase converter. Not all at the same time but heck, I can’t be at one place at the time. Just my setup, may not fit your needs?
    Kevin
     
  5. hoz53

    hoz53 Gold $$ Contributor

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    That motor
    but you wouldn’t “grind the lugs” would ya?
     
  6. hogpatrol

    hogpatrol Gold $$ Contributor

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    No.
     
  7. GSPV

    GSPV A failure to plan is a plan for failure.

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    I’m talking about recoil lugs. So that the sides are perpendicular to the bore and parallel to each other. Once upon a time, I paid good money for a custom one...from a well-known aftermarket supplier...that was shiny, but with sides that I could easily measure to be not parallel. I.e., it wasn’t flat. The rifle wouldn’t shoot worth a crap with it on. I put the factory back on and it immediately shot better. I repeated this several times.

    That was on a Savage short action that I was going to shoot in a “factory class”. The rules allowed aftermarket barrels, recoil lugs and barrel nuts. But, otherwise, the configuration had to be as from the factory. That class went away pretty quickly, but it’s something that I’ve never forgotten and why I don’t like sandwich recoil lugs, barrel nuts, or rule sets that get changed every season.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2018
  8. hogpatrol

    hogpatrol Gold $$ Contributor

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    Recoil lugs, OK. You'll best be served by one iteration of these:

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-x-12-Surface-Grinder-w-Stand/G5963
     
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  9. tobnpr

    tobnpr

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    Grinding lugs?
    New one for me...why not just face them on the lathe?
     
  10. hogpatrol

    hogpatrol Gold $$ Contributor

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    This lug:
    upload_2018-10-3_18-33-36.jpeg
     
  11. GSPV

    GSPV A failure to plan is a plan for failure.

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  12. Dusty Stevens

    Dusty Stevens COVFEFE- Thread Derail Crew Gold $$ Contributor

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    As cheap as lugs are i sold my tool grinder and just buy em now. That was a lot of nasty real estate i reclaimed
     
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  13. hoz53

    hoz53 Gold $$ Contributor

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    I was thinking the opposite-that lugs are kind of expensive- but Much less than the equipment to make them.
     
  14. Dusty Stevens

    Dusty Stevens COVFEFE- Thread Derail Crew Gold $$ Contributor

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    I had a KO Lee tool grinder. It seems like a mill is cheap to tool up compared to a grinder unless its just a surface grinder for grinding flat stuff. But whats the fun in having one and not using it to its potential? That floor space and lack of dust from dressing the wheels is way more valuable to me but i didnt have a ton of space at that time
     
  15. hoz53

    hoz53 Gold $$ Contributor

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    I agree — a little surface grinder would be nice for me at times but I don’t think I’d use it nearly enough to make the cost worth it.
     
  16. GSPV

    GSPV A failure to plan is a plan for failure.

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    55E7127B-3586-4E5B-B2C8-E9ECFE9FFA68.jpeg 51CF9BD2-6EE9-46FE-B710-3279621944B2.jpeg OK. Tonight’s goal was to clean up the area around the lower drive pulleys and the engine and to open the “peckerhead” to figure out how it’s wired.

    Pictures attached. It is wired for 440 and I’ll need to rewire it for 220. It now looks pretty good in there after a first pass at cleaning up 53 years of accumulated grime.

    As a side note, almost all of the chips were brass.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2018
  17. hoz53

    hoz53 Gold $$ Contributor

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    Interesting enough my 13” had metric roller bearings that the cone shaft turns in. I should say outside dia of bearings is metric. It was made in the 50s. How about a shot of the control panel with the cover off? or mabie there is no control panel and the motor is switched directly with a drum switch?
     
  18. GSPV

    GSPV A failure to plan is a plan for failure.

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    I’ve got it rewired for 220 now. Took 10 mins at the outside.
     
  19. GSPV

    GSPV A failure to plan is a plan for failure.

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    AF54CC62-52A1-4434-8ECF-8FAED6A8BC4A.jpeg 2E2C79B9-06E6-4B6B-998A-E375AC9F0DF0.jpeg
    Does that answer the mail? I’m kinda short on vocabulary.
     
  20. hoz53

    hoz53 Gold $$ Contributor

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    It’s a little blurry- is that just a fused disconnect on the right and does that switch say forward and reverse
     

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