First build-300wsm complete. Couple of questions

Discussion in 'Gun Project Questions & Gunsmithing' started by mram10, Jan 12, 2018.

  1. mram10

    mram10 Silver $$ Contributor

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    DB35E63E-30AE-43DF-A039-286240AE54F2.jpeg 47E657EC-3C36-4D67-93D5-7C3C51469354.jpeg 8CFE4138-A2B6-41DF-89DA-AA4FE34C5EBF.jpeg 9B7D6EDF-9CC5-4E73-B0F1-42E9DE68B9D3.jpeg Rem 700 long action (still needs stripped and cerakote)
    Christensen arms carbon barrel
    PTG match 300 wsm reamer (.3535 neck, .169fb)
    Finished the lathe work this morning but still waiting on manners to send the stock. Couple questions:
    1. Shank length is .950 instead of .998 (.010 off lugs) because I was told it doesn’t matter. Thoughts?
    2. This rifle is for me, so I headspaced with a fl sized piece of brass and cut the neck off. My brass fits fine as does some over the counter stuff, but a couple other bought types wouldn’t fit. Since I only shoot handloads and my brass fits fine, does it matter?
    Edit: went back and used go gauge to verify.
    3. The reamer was very tight and I had to use a cleaning rod to tap it out. Is that normal?
    4. I used a piece of 500 grit in the chamber at 780 rpm to polish out any marks. Good/bad?
    Edit: went back and sanded at 780 again till it smoothed outmand shined up
    I know someone will ask, but I’m sorry, it isn’t for sale ;)
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
    222 rem likes this.
  2. mram10

    mram10 Silver $$ Contributor

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    FAA7E3F0-B119-4789-9AB8-D04C16AF5406.jpeg 44563FBF-D834-4770-A92A-88EB09C0C415.jpeg B88F8C44-5A65-4760-9439-6C2A1DB28B72.jpeg 4A7217E4-C530-4606-90CF-5AED5E61E1D6.jpeg 04BF2D18-8873-477D-84B2-D16B8C1046A4.jpeg Tried to show chamber here.
    Setup:
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
  3. carlsbad

    carlsbad Details matter. Silver $$ Contributor

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    So if you shortened your tenon by .048 did you make your counterbore shallower by .048"? If not, then your case is unsupported for .048" where it should be supported. Not good. Hopefully, the clearance from bolt nose to bottom of counterbore is .010".

    --Jerry
     
  4. GenePoole

    GenePoole

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    How come you never take pictures of your setup and work? That'd be worth more for critiques than the finished product. For instance, how are you aligning your barrel? We can't tell how concentric you chamber is based on a final picture. What about the action? Looks like there was some cutting done there; what was the setup for that?
     
  5. carlsbad

    carlsbad Details matter. Silver $$ Contributor

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    So you're saying that without this, he doesn't have to worry about his last statement? :)
     
  6. mram10

    mram10 Silver $$ Contributor

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    Jerry, I adjusted the counter bore to be .010 from bolt.
    Gene, I get busy and don’t want to bother. I’m going out to build a 6.5-284 now and will take pics of setup. The receiver lugs were slightly marred, so I cleaned them up with a boring bar. Took off .002. Afraid to take more off.
     
  7. IdahoCTD

    IdahoCTD Silver $$ Contributor

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    Sounds like a PTG reamer strikes again. o_O That's why I don't buy PTG reamers anymore. They don't cut as nice and have issues like your talking about. The lack of headaches is worth the additional cost for a Manson or JGS because you get what you pay for and they work correctly every time. To me that says the taper on the reamer isn't correct or you need to stop and clean it out more often because a flute is packing with chips. Still need to work on the threading feeds and speeds or how rigid your holding the barrel. The tenon length is what you measure it to be so that is irrelevant.

    I'll leave you with this......buy/borrow/rent a go gauge. It will lessen the headaches.
     
  8. butchlambert

    butchlambert Site $$ Sponsor

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    What sound? "Sounds like a PTG reamer strikes again." I wouldn't jump to that conclusion.
     
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  9. GenePoole

    GenePoole

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    Nor would I. How would incorrect taper angle cause it to jam in the bore? My guess would be too little lube or too hard/fast feeding.
     
  10. carlsbad

    carlsbad Details matter. Silver $$ Contributor

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    wrong bushing?
     
  11. carlsbad

    carlsbad Details matter. Silver $$ Contributor

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    OK then you have only compromized your "3 rings of steel". It is a remington safety feature. Other's don't even have it. so many will say it isn't important.

    Taking a cut off your lugs will reduce primary extraction and eventually the handle will rub on the action. Should always be minimized, as you did. --Jerry
     
  12. NickB1075

    NickB1075 Gold $$ Contributor

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    I hate to be like this or discourage you because that is not my intention. I started on my own a few years ago so I know what it is like. I had/have a few mentors that helped me along the way. But I really think you need to stop and get some schooling or instruction from a competent smith or machinist. It seems like you still dont have the basics, or the correct tooling and equipment.

    Nick
     
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  13. Stan Taylor

    Stan Taylor

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    No pun intended but I like the way you think.
     
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  14. Stan Taylor

    Stan Taylor

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    I don't particularly like that ring I see at about.500 up in the chamber it might not be but it sure looks like it.
     
  15. shortgrass

    shortgrass

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    Tenon length doesn't matter? And I see the ring inside of the chamber now that Stan mentioned it. Solid pilot reamer or removable pilot? Got any pics of the fired brass? You really need to do something about the chatter on those threads. I know, it doesn't matter how ugly or how pretty your threads are. Still, shows you've got a problem....
     
  16. paperpuncher

    paperpuncher Silver $$ Contributor

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    That thing is still chattering like crazy, might just be cosmetic but that would drive me nuts. Perhaps Im too OCD but I would need to get to the bottom of that.
     
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  17. Stan Taylor

    Stan Taylor

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    I just cut this set of threads on a Chinese lathe 12x36 precision matthews for a bat action not perfect but liveable.
    20180112_182244-1.jpg
     
  18. mram10

    mram10 Silver $$ Contributor

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    E37E0832-487C-45E7-BC08-25D22566C4C8.jpeg 3261706B-1377-4947-8D78-FE93573DA35A.jpeg 8722D721-F815-4EB7-B3AA-2894D06DE314.jpeg 46D030ED-9CFC-4F81-86D5-C7D5B54DD238.jpeg 16B61DF1-4192-461F-8BEC-E68125AF1E97.jpeg I agree with Nate, it is the reamer ;)
    Nick, I’m too old to wait. I’ll learn as I go buddy. Plenty of experience to learn from on the forums.
    The reamer was a ptg with pilot. Super tight. As for the setup, here are some pics from the 6.5-284 I just finished. Now that I have stuff to shoot, I’ll take time to go through the lathe AGAIN and see if I can get the shakes out of it.
     
  19. mram10

    mram10 Silver $$ Contributor

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    More pics 8885C0F9-94F5-47F4-AF84-B96469C78768.jpeg B512894D-A448-4193-9779-4CE89CC09EBF.jpeg C783FE88-3C8B-431A-85E7-7AA833FD2B82.jpeg
     
  20. mram10

    mram10 Silver $$ Contributor

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    68B1224B-0853-481A-8152-2FFCCB25B8CB.jpeg 8527868F-91F6-4BBB-8DD9-22B567DEE84C.jpeg Here are feet I built that stretch front to back, 2 under the head stock and 1 under the tail. They have 5/8 bolts going through with a washer and nut on both sides to adjust. I didn’t epoxy them into the concrete, just set them in so it wouldn’t walk. Guess I’ll have to get some wedge bolts and try that.
     

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