Discussion in 'Reloading Forum (All Calibers)' started by Alex Wheeler, Jan 9, 2016.
When finding the distance from the lands to the bolt the bolt face I want all the bullet hold I can get. There is a reason, with bullet hold I can transfer the dimensions of the chamber to the seating die.
Hard of hearing? I did not say that.
Alex, try to jam the bullet into the rifling then remove the case with the loose neck. There is a chance the bullet will remain stuck in the rifling. Jam and touch; I prefer to touch the rifling with the bullet.
And then there is the running start, I am the fan of bullet jump, I want my bullets to have the running start. There is nothing entertaining about placing the bullet into the rifling for me.
Well, I was going to order the necessary tools from Sinclair today and I remembered some old posts on the Internet about this procedure. Waited for my grandson to get home from school and I went at it. It all went perfect!! I had loaded some rounds going off of my Hornady tool. Using the described method in this post I was .050 off the lands!! Here I was thinking I was about .010-.015 off. I'm reloading some more and starting at .010 off. Measured 6 times and it was soooo close each time I was really amazed at the accuracy.
thanks for posting the video. I found it very helpful.
Extremely helpful. I have even directed friends on other forums to watch it. Great job.
Dragging this up from the past b/c it's an awesome video....
Could this method be done accurately using a piece of 6mmBR brass in a 6mm dasher chamber? I ask b/c if one doesn't have any fired dasher cases, isn't the principal the same, and wouldn't it work since the dimensions of the body of the brass case are the same (except for the shoulder angle)?
I have done it with unformed br brass, works fine. Like Tom said you should be hooking the case on the extractor anyhow or the extractor will push the case forward and foul up the measurement anyhow.
Ah excellent, thank you for the speedy replies guys! This info helps quite a bit...
Ironically,was watching some of AW's videos yesterday....then saw this post today.
Shooting cast with nose sized bore riders,weeell up into the throat/leade.Swaging (bumping) the nose,altering the "fit" turns mediocrity into bragging groups in some guns,like flipping a lite switch.Process that with jacketed bullets anyway you want.
Thanks for the videos,and keep your fingers out of the belt grinders!Not that I would know anything about that?Just sayin.
I must admit, just watched the video and makes perfect sense.
So I gave it a go; but, unfortunately I think the case may have given me false feelings of extractor camming. I got to the point where the bolt would finally close all the way with an coal of 2.3485, and I felt what I thought was the extractor cam. But kept feeling the hangup despite holding the bolt handle to the rear. Ended up seating the oal ( I was ensuring ogive too) to 2.224 with a Berger 105 hybrid in virgin 6br lapua brass in a dasher 272 neck 104 fb and kept feeling the hangup. I knew something was wrong. I looked at the case and there were circumferential rub marks and longitudinal rub marks too. I pulled the berger 105 hybrid, and the same hangup feeling was there...aargh...so goes 20 min of my time... The chamber and bore were cleaned how I clean every rifle before I use it. This rifle is unfired though. I might end up just using the number I get when I can close the bolt via gravity on a dummy round and call it good. Was kind of surprised the case itself was causing that hangup feeling since its brand new.... I wonder if the chamber is just a bit tight.
Reno..is this 'new' brass sized? If you can't freely close the bolt on an empty case I would size it down until you can. then repeat your test to find the lands.
One thing I should have mentioned in the video, the longer the freebore the more important it is to have a straight case. If there is runout in the case or at the bullet it will bind up in the freebore. A dead give away is a half ring mark on the ogive then 180 degrees across another half ring mark down by the case mouth on the bullet.
Hey fellas brand spanking new 6mmbr lapua case in a dasher chamber,just expanded with a mandrel, concentricity at the neck of the case and ogive of bullet is .001-0.002 using a Forster tool and dial indicator. It's a bit weird... I'm just going to fireform with the appx lands depth I get with the close to bolt technique and do it again once I get fire formed brass and bump the should back a bit. I have a feeling I'm getting those markings and continued hangup feeling upon opening the bolt Bc I'm using a 6mmbr case in a dasher chamber....
I've been following your progress but I am very confused about what you are trying to accomplish. Are you trying to find the lands in your 6 Dasher chamber using a 6br case or are you trying to fireform 6br brass into 6 Dasher brass?
First, if your chamber neck is 0.272" greater and your chamber length is at least 1.555", a stripped bolt WILL close on a stick of Lapua 6br brass by gravity alone. If it won't, stop right there and figure out why not. If your chamber has a tight neck, you may need to first turn the 6br neck so that the loaded neck will fit. If the chamber is short, you will need to trim the brass.
If the brass fits, then I really don't understand why you need to form a false shoulder just to locate the lands. Just long seat a bullet into the 6br case and follow Alex's tutorial. There's no reason that the case needs to headspace. All you care about is the bullet touching the lands.
Now, if your objective is to fire form brass, I would suggest you consider the jam method as an easy alternative. Find your lands using a 6br case, add 0.020", and seat your bullet with .002" or .003" of tension and fire away. Use a soft cup primer like a Fed 205. I used 30.6 Varget in my gun and achieved a pretty consistent OAL of 1.542" after fire forming. Zero cases lost. Trimmed the cases to a consistent 1.540" and I'm ready to rock and roll.
Not sure if any of this will be of help to you but I hope so. Good luck!
OK, I hate to sound dumb but, How do you accomplish this with a Savage bolt? I have done this countless times with a Remington, but never with a Savage. My brother wants to learn more about reloading and he has a Savage 110 (I think). I know the bolt is different. It seems like there is resistance even when the firing pin is released. I would like to educate myself before I have to educate him.
Thanks in advance!
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