Do it yourself Stock making thread

Discussion in 'Gun Project Questions & Gunsmithing' started by joshb, Mar 29, 2017.

  1. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    I just reread that. Maybe I'm getting slow. Are you suggesting that I can't catch a fish?:mad::confused:;)

    Anyway, still waiting for hardware so we're on hold. I won't use any others. Josh
     
  2. Nvreloader

    Nvreloader

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    Josh

    I am going to pass on the ocean fishing,
    just smelling the ocean gets me severely SEA SICK,
    Takes me over a week to recover

    Two trips was enough for this land lubber, to learn his lesson,
    I am dry land Desert Coyote, LOL.

    You catch them for me, OK.

    Tia,
    Don
     
  3. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    Now, now. Most of the Redfishing is done in back bays and channels, far from the ocean. We just went out to a rig because the big reds weren't in yet. We caught hundreds of smaller Reds in the back bays on points. Just sayin.:):):) No waves. No Ocean. I know what you're saying, tho. I have an adopted son that can't take little ripples. He try's but can't. I understand. Maybe trout fishing from a stream bank is for you! Whatever makes you happy. That's the key. I don't ever want any one to be unhappy. Josh
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2017
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  4. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    Hey! I'm back from vacation. I see that KMW finally has the cheek piece hardware in stock so I should have it soon. Then I can finish the stock. Anybody have any progress pics? I'd like to see. Josh
     
  5. Ggmac

    Ggmac

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    Josh I'm going to email some pics . The ones pictured are all a little different and just used as patterns for future use .
     
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  6. Fast14riot

    Fast14riot

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    I've been enjoying this thread, any updates?
     
  7. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    Yes! I finally have my hardware! Yey! Six sets. The only hold up is that I'm south in my beach house looking for flounder and tuna. Let me have a couple weeks of fun and then I'll finish it up.:):):):) Any "progress pics" from those involved? When I get north, I'm going over to the "wood dealers" for some exotics. I'll post pics of what I get. Buying Bubinga, cocobola, mahogany, etc. Josh
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2017
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  8. Fast14riot

    Fast14riot

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    Enjoy the beach! I'd like to find a pattern for a culbertson style stock to make my own, but with the adjustable comb. Anyone have a pattern?
     
  9. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    "All you need to do is...." Find one and lay it on a sheet of paper for a trace of the profile. If you can borrow one to study during the build, all the better. I started my adventure with the Master Sporter stock. I liked it but I thought it could be better in a few areas. Every time I do one, I tweak it a little differently than the last, trying to get one "just right". I'm finding the greatest pleasure is the next one. That one will be "it". Usually it isn't but it's closer, so I have to do another one. Aside of the function of a stock, the form is completely up to the personal tastes of the builder. My purpose in this thread is to show how to do the basic "function" cuts on a blank using rudimentary tools and bring the custom stock within reach of any guy willing to try. I derive a lot of pleasure out of shooting small groups with one of my own creations. I bet others will, too.
     
  10. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    Is this it?
    image.png
     
  11. Fast14riot

    Fast14riot

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    Yep, that's the style. I shoot a lot of varmint style matches prone from a Harris type bipod but I also shoot sling supported, I think this style will work well but with some more modern features than my 40xb stock like a vertical pistol grip and I wouldn't feel bad about cutting for adjustable cheek piece.
     
  12. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    Ok. Take my pattern and "remove" the wood around the mag. Notice the Culbertson angles slightly down from the fore arm to the trigger area. That provides the thickness of wood to inlet the trigger guard/bottom metal. Adjust my grip angle to a more verticle angle and voila!
     
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  13. Fast14riot

    Fast14riot

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    Yep, if I could get one of your patterns sometime, that is a very viable option. It would be for a single shot action, so no worries about bottom metal.
     
  14. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    Well, all ya gotta do is "request" one. Go to my web site and fill out the 35 page questionnaire, include your social and bank account numbers...... OR :rolleyes: just pm me your address. I'll put a pattern in the mail as soon as I get home. Josh
    Edit: Do the stock making process for the barrel channel and trigger cut. Bypass the mag/bottom metal cuts. Go to the trigger guard cut pics. From the bottom of the pillars, measure your guard thickness, add an eighth for sanding and cut there. I did a version of that for the Savage stock.(post 111 and 106)
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2017
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  15. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    Finally moving forward. Pics of the actual cheek piece hardware install.
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    Last edited: Jul 28, 2017
  16. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    IMG_1197.JPG
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    With my hardware installed, I let it sit overnight.
     
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  17. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    My epoxy set overnight so I'll loosen my clamp screw, check function and pull off the tape. I mark the top of my stock at the rear onto my cheek piece and the left side of my stock profile on the underside. I unscrew and pull my top hardware. Then, I set up my table saw and cut off the excess on the top and use my jigsaw or bandsaw to cut off the side, which is not a straight line.
     
  18. Ggmac

    Ggmac

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    Dang I can see your floor ! Mine just makes me taller - too many layers .
     
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  19. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    Now, I set my cheek piece back in it's place and mark the curve of the palm/grip cut on the underside of the front of piece. Using my grip area curve template, I mark a line on the right side. I lean the curve a little forward at the top instead of following the line of the curve below it. About 1/4 to 3/8 at the top. Match the line at the bottom. I put the piece in my compound miter saw and cut just a little outside the lines. For me, it came to be a 41 degree miter with a 15 degree bevel. You can do the cut with a handsaw, too.
    Put the piece back on your stock and look/feel at a comfortable gap between the end of your stock and the front of your cheek piece. I usually nibble a little off at a time until I like the look. Match the angle of the rear of the stock. Should be 32 degrees. Screw your hardware back in place, put your cheekpiece in the stock(check operation) and lock it down. I need to give KMW a plug here. His hardware is very strong, well made stuff. It's strong enough to hold the cheek piece in place while forming. It does not move.:)
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    Now, I start marking more sanding lines and begin shaping the top.
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    Last edited: Jul 29, 2017
  20. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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