I recently saw a video on this forum showing how to shock at bullet back into alignment. The tool setup is nearly $400 (plus the cost of a good divorce lawyer if I spent it right now). I wanted to see if it works and if I could duplicate it with what I already have. Yes, and yes! Cost was $0.00. A tire gauge that has a nice smooth radius. And a 50 gram weight that is slightly rounded at the top. I did over 20 so far and it works perfectly. I checked the runout on a Sinclair gauge and marked the spot where the bullet was at it's lowest. I supported the bullet tip and tapped it with the weight at #2. (I'm talking a very very light tap, not enough to bend anything). The runout at #3 was a little over .003" before. After straightening, the runout on the neck, point #1, was just over .0005". Half way to the tip, point #3, measures a total runout of about .001". I also check to see if anything was bending at the tip, point #4, and it still measured just under .001". After 20 I'm starting to gain confidence in this method. No failures or problems so far. Every one straightened usually on the first attempt. This is resized & neck turned Lapua .308 brass. Before I use to try and bend the bullet straight but gave up because it is very easy to go overboard and it also loosens the necks. Nothing seems to be bending here. The dimensions on the neck didn't change as far as I can read with a .0001 micrometer. Maybe it shocks the surface contact area and allows it to relax. Even with a Redding competition seating die, there is still some runout from time to time. I usually set them in 2 steps rotating the case 180 degrees in the press. The worst I found so far was over .004". After straightning (3 attempts with a bit more force each time, still very light taps) #1 was at .001", #3 at .001" and #4 at just under .002". So far I don't see any marks or making the bullet tip out of round even though the lead doesn't extend clear to the tip (about .200" down inside) and it's unsupported copper.