Discussion in 'Reloading Forum (All Calibers)' started by Hondo64d, Feb 17, 2019.
Here you go
There's several types of LED bulbs to replace fluorescents. Some run off the ballast (remember that ballasts go bad, too), some you bypass the ballast and rewire the fixture to put 120V across either the tube (end-to-end) or across the pins on one end of the tube. I believe I saw some that you replace the ballast with an AC to DC converter, and wire the 5 or 12 VDC (or whatever they're running) across the bulbs.
Bottom line: make sure you investigate to find out what works best for you long term. Also make sure you get the right type should you need to replace a bulb in an existing conversion.
A UPS does wonders and keep the scale on 24/7.
Hope it works out. We put in another 3 boxes yesterday and it was as simple as changing bulbs on t8 fixtures
Lectrician here, know this is sometimes not just a lamp swap. Other things are involved, like changing the sockets and changing the ballast. Easier to replace the entire fixture with an LED model. Just don't buy the "Commercial" brand from Home Depot. Junk
THanx 'zilla. Have a best friend who is great around the house so will work with him when I get aruond to doing this. Appreciate the headsup. I had trouble with flourescent lights/ballasts and know a little about them, so hope switching over to the LED will prevent problems where I now live. lg
FWIW I installed a buncha LED's in my shop. I found some nice 5k lumen LED's for $24/each at Murdoch's. I also installed some recessed LED lights in my basement with drop ceiling.. I think the only fluorescent left here is over my loading bench
What is the source of electrical interference when using fluorescent lights - the ballast, bulbs, or both?
I think the ballast firing the bulbs does it
I asked one of my smarter engineer buddies and ill let you know. Ive never ran that experiment i went to complete led fixtures new so ive never seen the effects of the conversion
As stated there are quite a few variations, I chose to eliminate everything and it's easy. Replacement LED bulbs can be found that use a ballast, don't use a ballast (bypass), are powered from both ends and only from one. If you get the wrong type you may end up replacing fixtures (or at least sockets). Before getting the LEDs find out what you have, if you have shunted sockets you will need the bulbs that use both ends. If your sockets (aka tombstones) aren't shunted you can do it either way. typically a non-shunted socket will have 4 wire connections to it. On some sockets you can cut the shunt but if you have multiple bulbs you need may more than 2 connections per socket.
If you're taking the step to LED it is beyond me why anyone would continue to use a ballast, it's just a common failure point and another power draw. Since all the efficiency drive in past 10 years ish, ballasts have become crap. Do yourself a favor, get rid of the ballast and do the conversion yourself (if electrical codes allow), you'll be surprised how simple it is.
Ours were T5 and were rated @ 35w, the replacements are 13w. They cost $15.00 ea and are 4000K?? The kelvin is the color and 4000k is pretty white, in fact too white for me, I should have got 3800 or lower. Check out you tube, there are several informative clips there and good luck.
I had a recent issue with my Chargemaster lite. It was drifting and hard to calibrate. I noted that when I brushed against the power supply wire/cord the drift increased. Well I always wind up the cord after using as I keep the unit in the box. I noted the cord was extremely twisted. I untwisted the cord and now hang it up at full length instead of winding up. Problem solved. Scale acts perfect again.
Just put your reloading bench inside a Faraday cage... Problem solved.
Also keeps vermin from gnawing on your toes while you're concentrating on the scale readout...
Costco has a great deal on good T8, 4' fixtures, around $25 each.
I bought a nice LED light fixture at Home Depot $39. Looks like florescent bulbs. It's as bright or brighter than florescent bulbs.
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