Chamber flush parts list?

Discussion in 'Advanced Gunsmithing & Engineering' started by ridgeway, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. ridgeway

    ridgeway

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    I want to put together a basic chamber flush system. I have a rotary union, coolant tank with a small sump. I was maybe going with a carbonator pump for more psi.

    What do I need in a carbonator pump and motor? Make sure of a check valve?

    Do I need a filtration system or will a fine screen work?

    Pressure gauge plumbed in?

    How you regulate pressure? .simple ball valve?

    Pics if your particular setup might help...
     
  2. GenePoole

    GenePoole

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    I use water-based coolant (Houghton HOCUT 795MP-RHS) in my flush system and I find that a carbonator pump delivers way too much pressure. I tuned mine down to about 20 psi by replacing the spring in the internal relief system with a much weaker one. Other than that, it's just a five-gallon bucket with a fitting in the side and a funnel in the top for a tank. I have a screen in the funnel for chips and an oil-absorbent pad for tramp-oil.



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  3. Dusty Stevens

    Dusty Stevens COVFEFE Gold $$ Contributor

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    What keeps your muzzle end from flopping around besides the shim-rag?
     
  4. GenePoole

    GenePoole

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    That's not a shim rag, it's a harmonic dampener. I have a twin (actually triple) spider or cat's head type fixture at the front.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Daveinjax

    Daveinjax Silver $$ Contributor

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    With all that weight hanging off the muzzle is there any deflection ?
     
  6. sdean

    sdean Silver $$ Contributor

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    People that have never tried one think so. I made one similar that threaded on my SB13 spindle. Worked just fine.
    I reread and see what you meant. Gene will have to address that one. I don't have a flush system to hang off the barrel.
     
  7. ridgeway

    ridgeway

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    Can you use the carbonator pump with light cutting oil, like vipers venom or Ridgid dark cutting oil?
     
  8. shortgrass

    shortgrass

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    I don't know. I use a small hydraulic pump I bought of off e-bay. I think it'll move like 1/4 gal per minute, but that'a plenty for my set-up. I think I gave about $65 for it. Direct drive with a 1/4hp, 1750rpm motor and a Love Joy coupler. Still gotta' by-pass some, or make a big mess! I have a couple of spare B&S gear pumps about.
     
  9. ridgeway

    ridgeway

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    Thanks all!
     
  10. tac284

    tac284 Gold $$ Contributor

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  11. DaveTooley

    DaveTooley Silver $$ Contributor

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    I've chambered well over 6000 barrels, 10 today, using a 1/8HP pump and oil. Nothing high pressure about it. I just want lubrication not evacuation. A little creativity to manage chips. Think sluice box. Gravity is an amazing thing. Add a few magnets and your good to go. YMMV
     
  12. rain164845

    rain164845

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    Are you just pulling the reamer out every so often and brushing chips away? How often?
    Thanks!
     
  13. DaveTooley

    DaveTooley Silver $$ Contributor

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    I use reamers with bushing that have oil grooves. That helps but the more material removed during roughing the better off you'll be. I'm currently doing a run of 225 6.5 CM barrels. I make one pass with the finish reamer per barrel. I use JGS core drills to rough the chamber in.
     
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  14. ridgeway

    ridgeway

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    Dave...do you have a picture of your bushings? Did you grind the oil grooves in them?
     
  15. DaveTooley

    DaveTooley Silver $$ Contributor

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    The proper way to do it is get them when you order the reamer. Oil bushing have thicker walls to allow for the grooves. I have taken a cut off wheel and added grooves to regular bushings. I'm not sure how much it really helps as the grooves aren't very deep. But I'll take what I can get.
    I'm sure some are thinking about the cost of more bushing. I don't use tight fitting bushing so one size pretty much fits all. Bartlein barrels help.
     
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  16. jfseaman

    jfseaman

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    I would like even more positive chip clearing than I have.

    After this latest round of chambering, I need to make a couple changes to my setup.

    I like my ~35psi. Coolant goes everywhere when I back out.
    My catch pan is not very "flexible" in terms of it's location.
    My coupling is sensitive to coming loose.

    and

    I have a barrel to chamber today.

    Grumble grumble.
     
  17. DaveTooley

    DaveTooley Silver $$ Contributor

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    I guess the question is why do need to move that many chips? A well roughed in chamber should only require 3 maybe 4 passes with the finish reamer.
     
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  18. jfseaman

    jfseaman

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    Some of us cut the chamber with the finish reamer from beginning to end. For a small shop or amateur or rechambering there was no "rougher reamer" in the process.

    Of course you will use this to say you are doing it wrong. Not really interested in that so please don't bother.
     
  19. ridgeway

    ridgeway

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    I predrill .010" short with a undersize(approx .020 under shoulder) twist drill and bore .010 under with a boring bar. Many many ways to get from point A to point B.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2018
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  20. DaveTooley

    DaveTooley Silver $$ Contributor

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    I'm sure you understand this but just for the benefit of other amateurs.

    In terms of pure accuracy consider for a moment what the most important cutting edges are on a reamer. The throat, being the lead angle and freebore section. Those are the key cutting surfaces that require care and vigilence. The first chamber cut will have the best finish and require less conditioning.
     
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