Discussion in '6PPC, 6-6.5x47, 6XC, 6 Rem, 243' started by NVScout, Jan 14, 2018.
Not off hand but the coal is 2.950 which is .010 from touch.
I said .276 in the second post. Loaded is .2715 . I’ve ran sized cases at .269 and .270
Has your Smith had a chance to check it out yet and get back with you?
Haven’t heard anything yet.
Curious as to what has been found?
Have you checked the scope mount or tried a different scope?
So according to your first post you've only ran one powder in the rifle (H1000).....
I think the problem is blatantly obvious
Low ES and SD don't mean anything if it won't shoot the powder. Just because the speeds are close on loads doesn't mean they have to be accurate.
I start with multiple powders loaded up initially, then eventually narrow it down to one powder by process of elimination using only the powders that show promise with group size, group shape, speed consistency, and POI. It all matters in the accuracy equation. Don't know how many times I've seen powders give amazing speed ES, but would never put a group on the target that was worth a shit. Sometimes certain powders just will not shoot in a rifle no matter how hard you try.
Seen posts like this so many times I didn't even really want to say anything. When the authors finally try different powders they are amazed at how accurate the rifle has become...
I believe I have a good idea what is going on here.
I'm new to the forum and was reading this post. If it was stated, I completely missed any mention of what the twist was for the rifle in question....
Welcome to Accurate Shooter/ 6br.In the first post open states 8T , Twist.
Also ran RL-26 with same results.
Got the rifle back from the smith, he was getting similar results to mine. Nothing jumped out to him and decided to do some work on the chassis just to mark that box. He sent it back and felt confident it was fixed. The MPA is a v block design so he trued the blocks and installed a brass bushing to support the tang better without stressing the action while torquing it into place. I loaded up some 105 bergers and 107 sierras with 49 gr h1000 to test. I shot 10 of each and got the same results as before. I’m can’t decide if I should do another ocw with h1000 and both the sierras and bergers or just switch powders now and try both?? What would you guys do at this point? I have IMR 4831 , H4831sc , h4350, rl26, rl22, rl15 and 7828ssc,
As for bullets 105 berger , 108eldm, 107 Sierra .
That action has NO support in that stock. Guarantee it's torquing and twisting and moving back and forth with every shot. The only thing you have resisting torque is the action screws. No sense in firing another round before you have a full bedding job completed. Dont understand how that didn't stand out as a problem to your smith...
So your saying a v block chassis will never work ? Please enlighten me.
Think about the physics of what's going on when you fire a rifle. There are extreme forces slamming rearward then receeding (which can cause a springback effect on a 700 style recoil lug). Then theres hard forces torquing on the barrel as the bullet spins through the rifling down the bore.
Now tell me what is resisting the recoil forces in that stock for your barreled action? Can you even guarantee that the recoil lug is making contact with the inletting surface, let alone contacting fully?
What do you have to resist the torquing forces?
V-Blocks alone are a sham. THEY especially need to be bedded. The aluminum doesnt don't absorb shock as well as wood or fiberglass and there's much less contact area and support than a standard inletting job on a wood or composite stock.
No, or very little, contact is a good thing for the rifle "barrel". It's the opposite for the action. You want the action completely supported.
I was actually thinking about the recoil lug contact just this morning. If I hold the rifle vertical while installing the action screws they won’t line up, I actually have to move the action fieard and I’m assuming off the recoil lug to install and tighten the action. I’m going to try and bed it this weekend (first time)
Any tips would be appreciated. I was also just planning on bedding the recoil lug and tang?!?
Bingo! Major problem identified
I would NOT just bed the lug and tang. We've already identified there are support issues in that stock. If youre gonna go through all the trouble of prepping for bedding, there's no sense in doing the job half ass. Takes very little extra time to apply extra compound for bedding the entire action
Get some Marine Tex-Gray or Devcon 10110 compund for the bedding and Kiwi "Neutral" color shoe polish for the release agent. A good Dremel tool is a must for cutting and grinding out magazine cuts after the bedding cures.
Read through this article very carefully. Perhaps disregard the pillar portion of the article since you have a V-block. This is what a quality bedding job should look like in the end.
Watch other youtube videos as well. After reading the article mentioned above, you should be able to distinguish which people on youtube know how to properly bed a rifle and who doesn't.
Do not clamp the rifle in a vise during bedding, especially around the action inletting area. Just lay it in a rest that fully supports the stock and allows for leveling adjustments.
There's lots of good info on this forum for bedding stocks as well if you run a search.
If I had a nickel for everyone who has tried to force a particular bullet or powder to shoot I would be seriously rich. "Listen" to your rifle and if it is apparent that it does not "like" something, change that thing right away. I have a friend who did the same thing. He saw that one powder had a velocity advantage, and that one bullet had a BC advantage and wasted a lot of barrel steel on the assumption that at some point it would be accurate. It never was, but when he changed powder and bullet it began to shoot. IMO if a rifle "likes" a particular combination it will give a strong indication early on. The same is true if it does not.
Would you build a dam for the recoil lug ?? It’s not a normal slot . Also would you torque the action screws to 10-15 inch’s or go full tilt ?
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