Discussion in '6BR, 6BR Improved & Wildcats' started by B_Thomas, Sep 2, 2017.
Hydro form or Fire form?
Both work well. Properly hydro-formed will save wear and tear on a dedicated barrel and the cost of components and time to and from the range to shoot.
DJ's Brass service
I fire form all my 6BRX brass during our club's 600 yard F open matches. With the right load you would be amazed how competitive it can be. You still need to fire form the brass after you hydro form them. I have done it both ways and saw difference in accuracy.
I fireform mine. 29.4gr varget under a 105vld shot my fair share of sub 1.5" groups at 400
How much jam? Which primer? Thanks.
What method did you use to hydro form that required the cases to STILL be fire formed?
I am looking for the method that produces consistent and repeatable shoulder lengths and case volumes.
Alex Wheeler stated: "One of the issues with the dasher, brx, or DX is forming cases. Hydro is the best way to get consistent cases. If your cases vary more than a 2-3 thousandths after fireforming you are making inconsistent brass and leaving accuracy on the table."
.020" and 450s.
I was mistaken. It was 105 amax
if memory serves me correctly, i expanded the necks with a special pin in my bushing die .020 tho.i then use the resizing die and resize the neck until the cartridge goes and the bolt closes with resistance . the portion of the neck that does not resize will be where your new neck and shoulder will form to . a load about middle of the data for a standard 6mm br should be used to fire form . i also put the bullet into the rifling slightly .this will insure that the case stays with the bolt face .this seems to work as good as any i have tried .if you don't understand this method don't try it . when fire forming any case extreme care must be taken to keep the case head in contact with the bolt face and (do not load brx loads into a standard 6mm br case to fire form) .hope this helps .
i fire formed 100 cases and i hydro formed 100 cases
FF i used 30gr of 2208/varget with cci450 and BR4 primers , 105 gr hybrids jammed .020 with .005 neck tension and they turned out great and shot well at 500m/547y
i then did my load testing on them and found a load of 32.4gr of 2208/varget, 450s, 105gr hybrids
i then hydro formed 100 cases and used my load that i worked up to finish them off and shoot at the a club comp (32.4gr powder 450s 105gr hybrids .010 off the lands)
they shot a 1.8 inch group at 500m/547y, so they were no different to my worked up FF cases
but the hydro formed cases were more consistent length than my FF cases, with in a few thou where as the FF cases had up to .006 difference in length
I just use a jamed bullet to headspace. .012 of jam is good.
Its my beleif that it takes several firings to fuly form brass. Even a really stout load takes a second firing to get truly formed brass. This i noticed because brass still shotens even after the third firing. Any 6PPC shooter will tell you this too so why not hydro form.
I use Whidden's hydro die and his method works very well. The critical part is to form the shoulders .010 to .015 thousandth further than necessary, then use your sizing die to flatten out the shoulder just enough to give a slight crush fit. Then you can seat the bullets where they are accurate.
Excellent. thank you.
This is the direction I'm looking at.
Hydro form first then size with a Whidden FLS die.
yep that's what i did on my hydro formed cases.. and they didn't get shorter after the 2nd or 3rd firing
How do you go about determining the amount of crush fit?
Thank a bunch everyone!! Deeply appreciate it!
There is not a hydro former made for any caliber that will fit your chamber perfectly, so you still need to fire form them (after hydro form) to make them fit your chamber exactly. Some shooters do not consider brass completely fire formed until it has been shot at least 3 times.
Dont get me wrong HFF is great but it is not perfect or $cheap.
Load your hew brass with a bullet jammed and go have some fun, it aint rocket science.
After expanding the neck (0.257 for me) then I used a Forster 6BR, FL, non-bushing die and sized a small amount of the neck and then tried to chamber the brass. Assuming that it did not chamber, I screwed down the die a little then tried to chamber again. Inched down the die until I could chamber the brass without stupid force, but with decent resistance. If you can chamber it easily you've screwed the die down too far. Once I had it set correctly, I set the lock ring and started sizing cases. Early on, I double checked a few by chambering them to make sure it was still set correctly, but once I felt good, I did a few hundred at a time.
Great! thank you!
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