5-10 Scale Tuning Adding Pointer

[ricco1949]

I recently tuned my old 5-10 scale using the steps recommended by Boyd Allen and the scale performed very well but lining up the pointer was difficult even using my phone as a magnifier.

I then added a fine pointer taped to the beam extended far enough to intersect the zero on the left scale.

The first pointer I used was a steel tailor's needle with the ball cut off. The scale would not return to zero varying at worst almost a full graduation.

I then tried a piece of finer copper wire from telephone cord. The scale retuned to zero on each test, however I found that repeatability was best when I held the beam down to its lowest position and released it, allowing it to bump its high limit each time.

It seems that the dampening magnets affect on the steel needle was affecting the beam's return to zero. I haven't seen this phenomenon mentioned in any other tuning threads.

I made sure the steel needle was not rubbing or touching any stationary part of the scale.

Has anyone else experienced this magnetic affect on a steel needle?

 

[JFrank]

I don’t use an extended pointer on my 1010 only elevate the scale to eye level,
Even if your occasionally off by one kernel I haven’t seen any different on the target.
Or at least I can’t shoot the difference

 

[1066]

Yes, I machine my pointers out of brass:

 

[BoydAllen]

It seems to me that you could start with the smallest diameter of hobby shop brass rod chuck up a short piece in a corded drill, and easily work the part that was sticking out to just about any shape or diameter you wanted before cutting it off and gluing it to the tip of your scale beam.

 

[1066]

Just note that on most scales the pointer will need to stand off from the beam a little to clear the zero plate.